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Thread: I need to mix up a lot of Nep soil. would like input on mix

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    Zero's Avatar
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    I need to mix up a lot of Nep soil. would like input on mix

    I end up wasting a lot of soil and never know the ratio of soil components when I mix soil for a pot or two.
    So I decided to mix very large amount of intermediate to HL soil.
    I would like some experienced nep growers to chime in if possible.
    I'm looking for good aeration/drainage with some moister retention.

    I have large bags of pine bark nuggets and shredded cedar mulch for the main ingredients
    also peat, LFS, black volcanic rock, pearlite, coir, and vermiculite.
    can anyone recommend how to do this?
    I'm looking to fil a large Rubbermaid container with the mix.
    Thanks,
    Zero
    SK-8 OR DIE

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    BigBella's Avatar
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    I have frequently used a mix -- in equal parts -- of live sphagnum moss (if that can be managed), pumice, perlite, orchid bark (and, occasionally vermiculite and charcoal).

    Just keep it quick-draining and acidic and you cannot go wrong . . .
    “Sì perché l'autorità dell'opinione di mille nelle scienze non val per una scintilla di ragione di un solo . . ."

    -- Galileo "Biff" Galilei

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    Grey Moss's Avatar
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    I stick with long fiber sphagnum and a coarse grade of orchid bark. The pieces are between 1/4 to 3/4 of an inch across.

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    Tastes like chicken! Exo's Avatar
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    I have great success with a mix of 85% pine bark mulch, 15% charcoal, and 10% peat, sometimes I add some lava rock in the bottom of the pot for drainage. For my lowalanders I add a bit more peat and some of my highlanders are in live LFS.
    Some days it just isn't worth chewing thru the restraints.

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    Nep'tard Chris_Himself's Avatar
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    I usually don't like to use more than two ingredients in my mixes. So far 50/50 orchid bark/LFS is proving to be quite sufficient. The reason there is a lot of variability with mixes is because in a more arid climate, you'd ideally want a little more water retention. I grow indoors so gratuitous amounts of LFS aid in humidity. Holds the fertilizer a little longer too I feel between cycles.

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    mobile's Avatar
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    The specific mix will depend on your growing conditions. For example, in cooler climates a peat based mix can stay too wet for too long and in hot cliimates LFS can dry out too fast unless humidity is kept high. I would avoid using vermiculite too, as it can become alkaline over time and some Nepenthes might not like that.

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    clippity-clip-clip Clue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris_Himself View Post
    I usually don't like to use more than two ingredients in my mixes. So far 50/50 orchid bark/LFS is proving to be quite sufficient. The reason there is a lot of variability with mixes is because in a more arid climate, you'd ideally want a little more water retention. I grow indoors so gratuitous amounts of LFS aid in humidity. Holds the fertilizer a little longer too I feel between cycles.
    I couldn't have said it better myself. I personally use whatever's handy plus a large handful of sphagnum.

    "Whatever's handy" is usually roughly cut pine bark or cedar mulch.
    "I, for one, can't wait to grow Nepenthes extincta!"
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    Nep'tard Chris_Himself's Avatar
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    Also if you use organic fertilizers, you can actually revive the LFS within a few weeks. The seaweed in the Maxsea is making it go nuts. Live sphagnum is actually good to use on it's own half the time and since I have orchid bark, thats a plus in the aeration department.

    Keep in mind that your nepenthes that you elect to grow will only be as healthy as the roots the plant sits on. I mean a couple exceptions like my N. Gentle, and N. Alata pretty much just grow in straight peat because thats what they came shipped in and I just dressed it with the sphag

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