helps retain mositure, keeps the top of the media from drying out too much in the sun..at least that's how i use it
Yes ok .... but for this I use alive sphagnum ... also as indicator that my used water is ok because living sphagnum will die if the water is bad. A good moment before the nep will die
good point, but unfotrunately i have yet to find a source for good live sphagnum, or perhaps it's me.
back to a question i had posed earlier on this thread, can you use physan on neps?
Last edited by F R e N c H 3 z; 07-05-2010 at 03:08 PM. Reason: spelling editing
i was just curious, i have no problem obtaining physan 20. i keep a spray bottle of it handy for any signs of bacterial rot on an orchid or fungus on a growing veggie seedling (started under lights)
Thank you friends!
I think I'm going to have to agree with the temperature drop theory - there is no cobwebbing, mite damage (underside of said leaves is actually still a shade of green, hasn't been sucked dry) and I have yet to fertilize (scares me to death - still can't wrap my mind around the plants being so touchy about filtered water, so bugs are the only fertilizer they get).
For reference, the plants get day time temps of 76ish with about a 10 degree drop at night - mid 60's. I hoped that would be enough... however it does not appear that they agree.
Appreciate the advice - going to post the lot for trade "as is" in hopes that someone with better conditions can rescue them. They were fairly expensive plants.
Anyone want 2 N. lowii and a N. tangalensis that are obviously stressed out?
I'll post a trade post here in the next day or two and try to find them new homes. Guess I should stick with lowlands/hybrids.
Thanks everybody who contributed!