My first thought (after having watched JH's hike video) was that these plants naturally grow in foggy, overcast locations.
Can't imagine a controlled environment in the outdoors of Oregon to be much different as far as sunlight goes.
I aim for the same relative humidity values year round, which is a daytime low of 70% and a night-time average of 85%, give or take five percent. There are times when it hits 95% during the night, especially in the early evening, as a result of the cooling off after sunset.
I maintain pretty strict highland temperatures in my grow space: night time lows between 60F and 50F, with the vast majority of nights landing between 53F and 57F. And yes, I am talking 365 days of the year. You see, coastal Oregon offers cool nights all through the summer, and almost every night it hits 55F or close to it, no matter how warm the days. That is one of the reasons I decided to build a highland Nepenthes collection; our climate is ideal for them. Of course, in the summer, I have to use shade cloth on the greenhouse to moderate temps, but being a fairly Mediterranean climate, summer days rarely exceed the mid-80s. I do use a cooling system when needed (which isn't often) to keep greenhouse temps under 85F on warm days. I never allow the temperature to exceed 90F, and I try to avoid that entirely. In fact, I try not to let temps exceed 82F for more than an hour or two in any given day.
In the winter months I do use a heater. In fact, I use two: a propane heater and a small electric space heater. The propane heater has only two settings: low and high, so having the electric heater as a supplemental source lets me set the propane heater on low at night and the electric unit provides just enough to hit that magical 55F most nights. It should also be said that anyone who has ever kept a semi-tropical greenhouse knows that you must have a second source of heat if the primary should fail one night! You just can't rely on a propane heater alone, or you could have a major accident happen one cold January night. I also have a temperature alarm set in the space, which will trigger a piezo siren if the temp drops below 49F, a temperature I chose as the absolute lower limit. You have to have a temperature alarm in a greenhouse just in case something causes a serious loss of heat.
I think that pretty much covers my climate control technology. Oh, I forgot; there is a fogging fan (commercial unit) that is triggered by a hygrostat to start up when the humidity drops too low. I am going to try some different technology in 2013 that may be more efficient and less prone to wetting foliage, so I will discuss that once I have tried it.
I've been doing some tests using an Olloclip add-on iPhone lens (iphone5) and the results are quite intriguing: some serious macro pics are possible! Here's a couple: