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Thread: Thermoelectric Cooler

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    Thermoelectric Cooler

    I am getting one of these, the kind you see in grocery stores by the checkout with soda inside, and would like to know if 54 degree low is OK. I spent the winter moving my high elevation Neps into an aquarium in an unheated room and now with warmer temps want to do the same only have the damp aquarium inside the cooler. Without stirring a controversy I mainly just need to know if a 54 degree low will suffice. Moving the plants over the winter like I mentioned worked great, I kept damp NZS in the bottom of the aquarium (maintaining 100% humidity) with a lid on and sprayed the plants before placing the aquarium in the cold room each night. Once my collection outgrows this system I will come up with something else but for now it works.

    Forgot to mention that the macrophylla thrived in these conditions and is now beginning to produce larger leaves and a ribbed peristome. I have a villosa arriving shortly that will be a good test subject for my technique and I'm sure it will let me know if it is unhappy........right?

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    Happy hour.. Api's Avatar
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    54 is definitely fine, though for the villosa that would be like, right on the line.
    Brennan
    My growlist: http://bit.ly/VUE0ri

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    Cardiac Nurse JB_OrchidGuy's Avatar
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    During the summer my lows only get to 60. But my macrophyla are in front of the AC unit that continuously runs during the summer months. My hamata are thriving. Haven't had a decent shot with vilosa. The one I had was too stressed when I got it in my care. I really don't think bits the low temp that actually matters that much. The temp drop is more important.

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    Thanks for responding.
    I found a number of these wine coolers that will work, I'm looking at a tall dual zone unit that will fit the bill.

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    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    Just a note on JB's comment because I see this from time to time.
    "I really don't think bits the low temp that actually matters that much. The temp drop is more important."

    By that logic you could say that well if it's a 20 degree drop that's needed then it doesn't matter if it's from 70 to 50 or 100 to 80.

    This is actually incorrect and it's the other way around. Highland plants that are kept too warm at night, regardless of how much the temperature has cooled down, will burn more energy than they are capable of storing during the day. This is why they will slowly shrink as they 'consume themselves' to make up for the deficit each night. Getting them to a cool enough temperature to slow down their metabolic pathways so they have a surplus of sugars remaining each morning is what's key. You can somewhat mitigate the problem by making sure the plants are receiving proper light levels and nutrients to maximize how much energy they can store each day.
    Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?

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    Cardiac Nurse JB_OrchidGuy's Avatar
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    Ty Tony. I wasn't trying to say 100-80 but nearly saying they didn't have to get down that low. As many folks try to focus on the low rather than the drop. Of course that is still to say in reason the max I would safely say is 80.

    I grow mainly HL plants and they all seem to be doing great. As I said in my post. The only vilosa I had was already sevearly distressed when I receive it.

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    About the thermoelectric coolers - I'm thinking about purchasing a 3.6 cubic foot model for true highland species and heliamphora, but is it safe to put something like this on its back and put lights over it? This seems like a pretty good and relatively inexpensive solution for someone growing small plants in an apartment.

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    Cardiac Nurse JB_OrchidGuy's Avatar
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    The problem is small plants turn into big ones before you know it.

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