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Thread: I need a little Nepenthes help

  1. #9
    divaskid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whimgrinder View Post
    A plant like spectabilis shouldn't be looking that poor after four months. It is looking like a plant that has no roots. How do you water it, etc. Hard to say what it isn't happy about, but its possible that 69F nights are too warm for long term health.
    I hand water it with rain water every 2-3 days depending on how fast it dries. I typically wait until my top dressing of sphagnum starts to look dry.

    It could very well be it needs to be colder at night. I anticipate it to be in the low 60s during the winter time but since I don't have great control over the temps in my tank it's somewhat subject to whatever nature brings until I get my new highland space set up.
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    I'd have to say definitely need a lower drop in temps for the spectabilis. Mine gets lows every night of around mid to high 50's F and is doing very well. When it gets warmer, the plant sulks. Sounds like the watering regimen should be okay though.
    As for the bical, I don't know enough about that one to make a comment yet, though it might very well need a bigger pot too, as they have relatively huge roots systems.
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    divaskid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcarlton View Post
    I'd have to say definitely need a lower drop in temps for the spectabilis. Mine gets lows every night of around mid to high 50's F and is doing very well. When it gets warmer, the plant sulks. Sounds like the watering regimen should be okay though.
    As for the bical, I don't know enough about that one to make a comment yet, though it might very well need a bigger pot too, as they have relatively huge roots systems.
    Hmmm I guess the big question is should I try and wait for colder temps and new highland set up? Or trade it now while it's still in somewhat tradable condition? Hmmmm what to do, what to do?

    Anyone else in regards to the bicalcarata?
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    dueoka's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcarlton View Post
    As for the bical, I don't know enough about that one to make a comment yet, though it might very well need a bigger pot too, as they have relatively huge roots systems.
    I would not suspect pot size to be an issue due to the fact that you have only owned the plant for two months. The brown spots look like typical sun damage, but the chlorosis is a little strange. Are any of those leaves new growth? I had some chlorosis on a larger raff a while ago. Turned out the media had decomposed to a brown mush filled with earthworms.

    IMO the spectabilis doesn't look that bad. I think it's just shipping stress. If it starts to get worse you could always use ice bottles until conditions get better. During the peak of the summer I started putting a couple smaller plants in a cooler with a couple bottles just in case. Easily takes temps down into the 50s.
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    divaskid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dueoka View Post
    I would not suspect pot size to be an issue due to the fact that you have only owned the plant for two months. The brown spots look like typical sun damage, but the chlorosis is a little strange. Are any of those leaves new growth? I had some chlorosis on a larger raff a while ago. Turned out the media had decomposed to a brown mush filled with earthworms.

    IMO the spectabilis doesn't look that bad. I think it's just shipping stress. If it starts to get worse you could always use ice bottles until conditions get better. During the peak of the summer I started putting a couple smaller plants in a cooler with a couple bottles just in case. Easily takes temps down into the 50s.
    Thats funny because I actually put an icepack next to the plant just a little bit ago and moved it to the "cooler" side of the tank. We shall see what develops. I'd really like to keep it since its a great species and always makes cool hybrids.

    The bical leaves are all old leaves. The one leaf pointing directly left is sort of a new leaf. It was starting to unfurl when I got it. That leaf is making a pitcher though and doesn't seemed to be hindered in growth. I don't think its pots size either, but I'll double check tomorrow for any media or root issues.

    Do bicalcaratas need peat in their media mixture? I read at one time that some grow in more of a bog area. Anyone else grow bicals that might have insight?

    This bical is the 'Brunei Orange' variety if that helps any.
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    pmatil's Avatar
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    I have Bicalcarata x Ampullaria. Very slow grower and I've heard that bicals like very hot and humid conditions. I'm using 1:1 LFS/perlite for the hybrid.
    Looking for N. Campanulata hybrids. Also would like to grow some nepenthes from seed. Growlist/pic thread: http://www.terraforums.com/forums/sh...-Pete-s-plants

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    Bical can grow in peat/perlite mix, but it does fine in LFS as well. I don't see one is better than the other. The dark spots are likely due to the change to high light level. New leaves should adapt. Not sure about the chlorosis. The pot is ok for next 2 years growth.

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    Hi there! I have had and successfully treated this issue (burned leaf margins) on my bical. I believed it to be potassium deficiency (it's a very big, vigorous plant and needs a lot of nutritional support for its tissues, and actually I am suspicious that all the nectaries on the leaves may consume potassium as well) and gave it some dilute potassium nitrate and the leaves turned perfect and green. It doesn't heal the damaged leaves but the new growth will be healthy and it does take about a week to notice healthy growth. Funny story--I have a banana in the same greenhouse and noticed this marginal leaf burn for a long time. I fertilize it all the time, but apparently bananas are monstrous consumers of potassium, which is why everyone says they're rich in it. Anyway, I laid a couple massive tablespoons of pure potassium nitrate in there (it's in a big pot) and BAM, totally green and perfect leaves. Same pattern on Nepenthes, same treatment, except I used I think 1/16 or 1/8 teaspoon per gallon. I am almost positive a normal garden liquid fertilizer will work at 1/8 or 1/4 teaspoons per gallon. I have used up to 2 teaspoons (~400 ppm Nitrogen) of 20-10-20 liquid fertilizer on all my Nepenthes with no burns whatsoever and no problems. Applying in cooler temperatures (i.e. before nightfall) is much less likely to burn and since you're in Hawaii you might want to strongly consider this. While they don't need even half of that (over time I have learned that they like about 100ppm bi-weekly), I still just wanted to throw out there that I've pushed these plants to figure out their limits. Over 400 will kill almost any plant.
    Last edited by theplantman; 10-15-2013 at 07:45 AM.

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