When you propagate nepenthes through root cuttings and stem cuttings, how old usually are the plants? Does it matter the age or is overall plant size more important? I ask because I want to be sure ahead of time exactly how I should go about it in a way as to avoid killing the original plant and ensuring that the cuttings have a chance of rooting. I will probably only really do stem cuttings, but in case I feel up to it I would like some advice on root cuttings too. Despite my experience with plants, I have very little experience propagating anything by cuttings. Since I am going to end up trimming vines anyways, might as well not waste potential plants. But I want to do it when the plant is good for it, I don't want to waste my rooting powder if it turns out plant age is a factor.
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Stem cuttings and Root cuttings
- Thread starter PsychoSarah
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Bio
Plant Whisperer
As far as I know, root cuttings are impossible for Nepenthes. Age of the plant isn't as important as the size of the plant. Most cuttings are taken from mature vines, but you can also root cuttings from a rosette (ex. basals). Rooting powder is not required, bit can increase the chances of the cutting striking.
In general, plants are best allowed to mature (meaning: to the vining stage, if possible) before you start taking cuttings. Your parent plant will fare better if it has already started forming new basal growth before you cut the main growth.
See: http://www.carnivorousplants.org/howto/Propagation/NepenthesPropCuttings.php
Nepenthes are not propagated from root cuttings, as you would with Drosera, for example.
See: http://www.carnivorousplants.org/howto/Propagation/NepenthesPropCuttings.php
Nepenthes are not propagated from root cuttings, as you would with Drosera, for example.
Any time of year that seems to do best? As in best during the height of growth for the year, or best when the plant is slowing down due to shorter photoperiod in winter? How big do basals have to be before they typically are "ready"? I know thanks to the internet how to do the cuttings themselves as far as stem cuttings goes. Good to know true root cuttings are a no no, that could have ended badly.
I actually was of the mind that you had to wait for a new basal to appear before taking stem cuttings. I wouldn't just try to cut at the stem if there weren't any vines, I don't really aim for propagation, I just don't want to waste the chance for it since I will be trimming the vines anyways. Plus, I heard from someone, can't remember who but it wasn't the seller, that talangensis x glabrata isn't a particularly common hybrid so its cuttings might be good for trades or giveaways. It has been a surprisingly easy little plant, I was worried it might take after its mom and be difficult, but despite getting beat up in transport and having less than perfect conditions for a highland hybrid, it never went into shock or stopped growing. Looks like in a month or two I might be able to post some early pitcher pics even. I certainly wouldn't want its cuttings to go to waste.
Bio
Plant Whisperer
+1
4 inches across, got it. Do cuttings like the conditions to be the same as their parent plant, or do they like more light/water/humidity/heat? So many factors to account for.
Bio
Plant Whisperer
They should be kept as the mother plant is grown, but should be kept very humid. (95-100%)
So a lot like seeds then.
I recommend only taking cuttings during the warm parts of the growing season.
I have access to a propagation mist room which is heated all year. Cuttings from Sept-March will just sit there for months without doing anything because even in that environment, the media remains too cold. They wait until spring, and then they root in 4-8 weeks. Many just stagnate and rot. Whereas after March I can root cuttings with no effort and 100% success. To me it's not even worth it to try winter cuttings. I end up stressing and worrying and checking on them more than is sane.
That being said, I had good success using a terrarium inside the greenhouse this winter, and would also recommend using a heat mat. No idea if photoperiod has an effect but it seems to be mostly soil temperature.
I have access to a propagation mist room which is heated all year. Cuttings from Sept-March will just sit there for months without doing anything because even in that environment, the media remains too cold. They wait until spring, and then they root in 4-8 weeks. Many just stagnate and rot. Whereas after March I can root cuttings with no effort and 100% success. To me it's not even worth it to try winter cuttings. I end up stressing and worrying and checking on them more than is sane.
That being said, I had good success using a terrarium inside the greenhouse this winter, and would also recommend using a heat mat. No idea if photoperiod has an effect but it seems to be mostly soil temperature.
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If you are a college student then you should have access to scientific journals. I can not stress how powerful and valuable a resource this is. The universities pay millions of dollars for annual licenses, and as a student you can freely peruse thse. With a little investment into the literature (while learning the scientific jargon), you will discover for yourself that what others deem as impossible is simply a lack of knowledge and understanding of the subject matter. If your college/university has a plant biology department, you can inquire about the incredibly plastic cell states in plants.
I just wanted some advice from people who had done nepenthes cutting before is all. I understand the resilience and biology of plants in general.
mato
BANNED
You may want to consider cutting or re-cutting the stem underwater and, preferably, in the dark, so as to avoid embolisms from forming in the xylem tissue and the possibility of catastrophic cavitation. Your plant and the cutting will have a much better chance of rooting if you do this, and it's actually a common practice when measuring pressure potential inside plants.
mato
BANNED
Just a tip..
That is the best advice I can give to anyone who would like to learn and understand for themselves. My graduate students say the same about their specialty until I ask about these generalities they purportedly understand.
jimscott
Tropical Fish Enthusiast
Sarah,
I have posted a few photos on my blog to illustrate the relative maturity of a plant appropriate for propagation and show how much of the stem you might want to use for a cutting. See: http://nitrogenseekers.wordpress.com/2014/06/14/propagating-nepenthes-by-stem-cuttings/
I have used both the water method and more traditional soil/moss methods for rooting cuttings, and I have found that it takes at least twice as long to root cuttings in water as it does if I place the cutting in Sphagnum. Just FYI.
I have posted a few photos on my blog to illustrate the relative maturity of a plant appropriate for propagation and show how much of the stem you might want to use for a cutting. See: http://nitrogenseekers.wordpress.com/2014/06/14/propagating-nepenthes-by-stem-cuttings/
I have used both the water method and more traditional soil/moss methods for rooting cuttings, and I have found that it takes at least twice as long to root cuttings in water as it does if I place the cutting in Sphagnum. Just FYI.
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