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Thread: Please help with diagnosis and treatment

  1. #9
    marcus_r's Avatar
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    What Fred said. Use a systematic and carefully check your entire collection.
    And don't let bees get near the plant if you use Imidacloprid!

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    Flip_Side_the_Pint's Avatar
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    I just placed an order for Talstar Pro, should be here in pretty quick as I payed for the speediest shipping. Talstar Pro was what was recommended to me by one of TF's masters, so thats what I'll go with.

    In the meantime is there anything I can do for a few days until the talstar gets here? like swab the N. burbidgeae with alcohol?

    I also contacted the vender the plant came from informing him he may need to quarantine his plants and warn some of his other clients of the potential threat. It seems these hibiscus snow scale is coming out of a specific Hawaiian nursery FWIW. If you want to know specifically where I got it you can PM me.

    From now on I'm going to be a bit more cautious when it comes to where my plants come from, Sucks I had to learn this the hard way. In the 12 years or so of collective grow experience this is the first major pest I've had to deal with....
    Last edited by Flip_Side_the_Pint; 03-26-2016 at 10:50 PM.

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    fredg's Avatar
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    Don't forget to acquire a good magnifying glass
    Fred

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  4. #12
    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    The active ingredient of Talstar is bifenthrin - one of the pyrethrin insecticides. It's a "contact" insecticide which are not effective on armored scale such as Hibiscus Snow Scale (Pinnaspis strachani) except during the crawler phase. The product label lists "Brown soft scale" and "Scale crawlers such as California scale, San Jose scale etc.". So timing of application is critical.

    http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/ms...29%20Label.pdf

    Pinnaspis strachani

    CRAWLERS

    The first stage after hatching is the only nymphal stage with legs, so the insects are called crawlers. Crawlers may stay under the maternal armor several hours until outside conditions, especially temperature and humidity, are good. After they leave the cover, they wander for a period ranging from minutes to days, but usually a few hours. At the end of the wandering period they flatten against the leaf or stem and begin to secrete their armor (Beardsley and Gonzalez, 1975).

    CHEMICAL CONTROL

    Insecticide mode of action and formulation are important because the armor covers and protects all stages but the crawler and the adult male. Contact insecticides target the crawlers stage; systemics target adult females and nymphs, as well as male nymphs. Since scales have natural enemies, care must be taken to conserve these. Populations of other pests, such as white flies and other scales, may rise if their natural enemies are affected by chemical control. Spraying should be determined by presence of scales in the field rather than by the calendar. Scales are best detected by regularly inspecting all areas of the fields for scales. When detected, directing spray at hot spots rather than uninfested areas helps conserve natural enemies and also delay pesticide resistance.

    In the packing house, insecticidal soaps can be used in the cleaning water to kill crawlers while scrubbing off adults. Dipping without scrubbing in a soap-pyrethroid solution for five minutes is only 70% effective against adults and nymphs (Hansen et al. 1992). Even though scales are killed, it takes several days for the body to dry, so removal of the armor is required to assure inspectors that the plant material is insect free.
    So I would do a scrub down to remove the scale phases. Take care to change clothes and wash down after contact with the infested plants and handling other plants. The crawlers can be transferred on your hands, clothing and hair.
    Last edited by Not a Number; 03-27-2016 at 02:08 AM.
    Grand Hotel... always the same. People come, people go. Nothing ever happens.

  5. #13
    Flip_Side_the_Pint's Avatar
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    what would one use to scrub it down with? Would alcohol work?


    If so I'm thinking scrub down the plant/s that are visibly infected with some alcohol or maybe the talstar? (or whatever) repot the plant with fresh substrate and then treat with the talstar. I'm expecting this will take several rounds of treatment. then topically treat the rest of the "healthy" plants as well. or treat everything as if they're all infested as a precaution.
    Last edited by Flip_Side_the_Pint; 03-27-2016 at 03:22 AM.

  6. #14
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    For goodness sake. Use a systemic and there's no need to scrub down, change clothes and shower.

    The way you're heading you're going to have reinfection after reinfection after reinfection ad nauseum.
    Last edited by fredg; 03-27-2016 at 05:35 AM.
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