|Thanks for the suggestions|
* *the plant is elevated above the floor of the tank and is not sitting in water, drainage looks good.
* I will increase the light to 15 hours.
* I will try to get the humidity meter to read above 50%
* I will add Ice around the plant to cool it
Always have the humidity high, like in the 80s. Why dont you just buy a humidifer from PFT. They are great, I use it for my highlands. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]
What is the Propability of the Propability?
If someone is addictied to therapy how will you treat them?
i think the temps are fine,.. i have a ventrosica here in florida and the basic day temps are aruond 85-90 ad night temps 75-80, with almost always high humidity, but the sun dries things out quick,...my ventrosica is growing real well here, and i noticed that when i put it in a small green house with 100% humidity and not so much light, (i think 4-6 hrs of morning sunshine) its doing really well, before i had it hangning under a ficus tree and it was growing slowly, once i put it in the g house i noticed it growing super fast
i think its the water, check the tank and see how much water you have,,.. i killed a adalea and a baby ventrosica and almost my 1st nep, a N raff,... because i over watered and they were sitting in water but i had no idea,.. my raff had its leaves turning yellow like you said, i am pretty sure its the water problem,
i would like to try the terrarrium again with heliamporahs, but pft isnt selling any
hope i helped
Expression = Maneuverability x Coiffure squared
N. Ventricosa can tolerate intemediate and sometimes even lowland conditions, and is a fairly forgiving plant...though the humidity is to low. Nepenthes need at least 60%-70% with an increase at night.
Grosse Pointe, MI
Humidity meters are notoreously inaccurate. *Is there a cover on the 10gal tank? If there is, then there is no way the humidity is too low for N. ventricosa. *
Paleness in leaves is and indication of a problem with nutrients and environmental factors. *Warm temperatures and high light will cause the plant to burn up its nutrients faster. *For the plant to get back into a healthy green color things need to balance again. *Less light intensity, cooler temperatures, more feeding.
Have a look at this photo. *This is a flat of N. burkei (very similar to N. ventricosa) that I felt was paler than it should have been. *I felt the temperatures were fine and the light intensity was not too much. *I fed the plants quickly one day and what you see is the result. *Notice that some are still small and pale in color while others are large and greener. *All the plants looked similiar when I applied the food. *Obviously I did not do a very good job at the time. *
Ideally I recommend people to feed their Nepenthes the natural way with insects. *When you have a plant that is not producing pitchers then this becomes a problem. *Perhaps in this case reducing the light to 40 watts total and remove some of the foil. *This might help keep the tank cooler also which might help the plant get back into producing pitchers. *You can then feed naturally. *Watering with a dilute fertilizer solution is another alternative but any time you start dealing with added fertilizers you risk damaging the plants so this takes lots of careful observation and experimentation.
I would also recommend you read the pinned post at the top of this forum on feeding Nepenthes
Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?
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