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Thread: N. ampullaria -- to set in water tray or not?

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    Hi,

    I got a N. ampullaria today... the instructions on the plant said that the plant prefers moist, tho not wet, soil. I understand that Neps shouldn't be set in trays for fear of root rot or somethg like that... but shld I do otherwise for this species? Just some backgrd... I live near the equator and it's tropical climate here.

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    My (limmited) experience with N. ampularia is that you should grow it on the tray method. Mine didn't grow or pitcher until I sat it in a tray of water. I let the water evaporate of the cource of a couple of weeks (it's in a VERY hi humidity terrarium, so evaporation takes a while), then I fill it with 1/2 or so of water, usually by top watering the amp and letting the water just sort of drain through.

    Incidently, I'm having rather good success with my bicalcarata grown the same way (in the same water tray, actually).

    Good luck!
    17 Nash Rd.
    North Salem, NY 10560

    YOU! Outta my gene pool!

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    N. ampullaria and N. bicalcarata grow in peat swamp forests which may be occasionally flooded depending upon the seasons so extra water is OK with these. I put mine on and off the tray method every other month or so to give it a bit of "drying" time at the roots (though I never let it actually "dry"). I've noticed some plant soils (especially if they contain a lot of peat) can get stinky if left on the tray method for a long while.

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    Swords,
    my potting mix is primarily LFS based (though there is some pete, perlite and orchid mix mixed in...I think something like 55:15:15:15), so the medium is "lighter" than a traditional pete medium. Is this a problem? They seem pretty happy, but if I could improve things in anyway, why not?
    17 Nash Rd.
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    YOU! Outta my gene pool!

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    Mine are also all nearly pure LFS. I was just making generalizations about peat, which it seems like a lot of people use cos they can't find LFS Moss. I'm lucky in that it's simple to find around here in all the garden shops.
    I don't like to use peat on nepenthes if I don't have to, I think it's too heavy and doesn't breathe enough - which is why I think it begins to stink. Anoxic (oxygen devoid) pockets develop and the anaerobic bacterias start to form hydrogen sulfide gasses. I only use peat only on garden plants now, all my CPs (including utrics, sundews, VFT, etc) and orchids live in LFS based media now.
    All CP's that is except my big bical. I moved it to a huge pot now (5 gallon pail-plant is 5 feet across) so I had to add peat to the new soil mix or the potting soil alone would've run me like $30 for the LFS! But I don't tray this one anymore as the larger pot size keeps the soil wetter longer at least for now. The two new little bicals are still on the tray however.

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    Question

    LFS?

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    Long Fibered Sphagnum moss, or dried strands of sphagnum, not the same as peat moss, wich is decomposed sphagnum. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif[/img] [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif[/img] [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rolleyes.gif[/img] [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img] [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/alien.gif[/img]
    I am back..

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    Question

    Long Fibered Sphagnum moss, or dried strands of sphagnum have a advantage to cps over peat? Is that why you switched over and no longer use peat? So the plants can breathe better, less chance of crown rot? Maby I will switch over.

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