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Thread: New lowland chamber

  1. #9

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    Hey Swords Id go with the 250.
    Um I probably wouldnt worry too much about the Acrylic as long as the lamp was being sufficiently cooled.
    Of course over time you will see bowing in the the acrylic which is somewhat unaviodable with out some kind if rigid frame.
    To be honest i dont know exactly what glass would cost but it would probably be comparable to or less than a peice of acrylic the same size. Glass is cheap.
    I would suggest a dayton blower if your looking at air cooling,
    you can find them for about 70 bucks for 265 cfm unit.
    They are reall nice, they move a lot of air and yet are amazingly quiet. Ive got 2 and they are roughly as loud as my computer.
    At OL they run the HPS which is what I would recommend against unless your looking to supliment light in a greenhouse or growing fruiting plants like tomatoes and the like. They say theres 30% more blue the bulbs that OL uses but you only see it when the bulb initially fires, then its TOTAL RECALL!

    Peace [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]
    Peace

  2. #10
    theddy
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    I have never used MH on my plants before....however... in a larger set-up I was using this summer...400W HPS., it worked great. My Judith Hindel looked GREAT....and my ventricosa has made giant leaps so don't knock it if you aint tried it...eh?

  3. #11

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    Hey Theddy if you had read my posts you would have seen that I do use HPS lamps, They are great for growing plants no doubt about it but my point was this, its depressing to work under imbalanced lighting, and even more so when its the only source of light.
    MH lamps produce a much more natural white where as HPS lamps produce a so called "Golden White", I call it red.
    Its no fun IMO to work on my plants in that type of light, I can tell you if you had the experience with both lamps youd see what Im talking about.
    Peace

  4. #12

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    Hi I'm a newbie here sent from over the pond (CPUKFORUM) on George-CP's recommendation.

    I just wondered what you did in the end? Did you mount a HID above glass or did you shine it through plexiglass, or did you put the HID inside the chamber?

    Is there any problem with installing HIDs in enclosed chambers of high humidity? I know about the potential heat issues, but is the bulb ok to run in 80%+ humidity?

    I'm looking for a highland solution and am a bit worried about a cold lamp switching on and suddenly heating up with water dripping from it? Anybody got any thoughts?

    Thanks,

    Ben.

    p.s. Great forum you have here!

  5. #13
    swords's Avatar
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    Hi Ben, I am now using a 400W metal halide bulb over this showerstall terrarium. I put the bulb and reflector into a box of wood that I made (just enough to fit the reflector) and set it ontop of plain plexiglass that I reinforced with an extra 1" x 2" board running the lengthways through the middlde under the plexiglass as a reinforcement against bowing cos the light box is sort of heavy.

    heat is surprisingly not an issue whatsoever. I made the light reflector box and installed a 4" fan to suck out the warm air from the bulb-there really isn't any! My terrarium is not as warm as I'd like infact! My lowland plants were used to days no cooler than 90*F in their old tank and now they only get to 76*F max with halides! it's weird I always thought these bulbs were supposed to heat things up. I'm going to build a better light hood with no fan (but a space incase I need it) which will contain the 400W halide and 4 40 watt flourescents so I get a better even light distribution throughout the tank and perhaps a few more degrees heat as well.

    I don't know about using the bulb inside the terrarium, I'm using a remote ballast unit made for lighting saltwater reef aquariums the encased units used in greenhouses and botanical gardens where they would be subjected to mists and high humidity are likely much different than what I've got.

  6. #14

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    Thanks Josh,

    Thats very helpful.

    If I can put a lamp inside an enclosed box and stand it on the clear chamber lid without it overheating, as you have done, then I am not going to bother putting the unit inside the chamber so the rest of my question is kind of redundant.

    I too was originally hoping to heat the chamber using only the light, but I have already found that I need some additional heat otherwise the temperature drops too low when the light is out through the winter. I'll just revise my plans to use the heater to supplement the heat from the light also.

    Thanks once again

    Ben.

  7. #15
    swords's Avatar
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    No problem! What kind of heater will you be using? I was originally planning to use a seedling heat mat strapped across the back of the stall but I don't know if it would be enough to heat this size enclosure.

    One more thing is I've noticed is that you should hang your humidistat (the controller for your humidifier) in direct light so that the plants in the brightest area stay in their preffered high humidity range. I damaged a lot of my large lowland plants (no pitchers on a couple leaves) by hanging the humidistat in the light fall off area instead of the brightest area.

    Were you planning to use humidity controls? I find it is almost impossible to keep the humidity high enough in non-aquarium type enclosures without the controllers as they aren't as airtight as glass & silicone as well the wood used to build the frames and the benches all soak up water. I know my humdiity is high enough, not just because my humidistat says so but because my bench and the frame work of my highland chamber have started growing moss! SInce this is happening I've mounted a Masdevallia orchid on my bench and so far so good! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]

  8. #16

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    For my size of enclosure, something like this will I think be fine:Rena COL

    For the larger enclosure, have you considered underfloor heating units such as this Devi mat
    I use the above mat under tiles to heat my kitchen. For a humid environment, you might have to do something about the thermostat tho.

    On the subject of humidity, this doesn't seem to be a problem in my chamber. Approaches 100% with no light and drops to 70-80% with my test lamp on (a 150W Halogen).

    I'm really just starting at this, so will worry about humidity controllers when I buy my first shower cubicle [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img] !

    Regards,

    Ben.

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