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Thread: Northiana looks like a mutant

  1. #17
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    Wow, very nice swords [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]. Do you think I could grow my two northianas in conditions with 50-80% humidity (highest at night), temps 65-85F (highest at day, lowest at night), potted in sphagnum moss and watered with distilled water. It is in a shady part of my grow room, under a 1000 watt metal halide. Can it grow satisfactory under theese conditions, or do I haveto make changes [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif[/img] ?

  2. #18
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    I make sure the humidity is no less than 80% RH during the day, 90-100% at night for any of my Nepenthes (lowland or highland) for adequate pitchering and pitcher lifespan on each leaf. The highest humidity possible (while avoiding saturation) is of prime importance (next to bright lighting) in my opinion. For lowlanders I feel the leaves, to see if they're slightly warm and "sticky" or tacky. If yes then I'm happy with the temp/humidity levels.

    If you have a large growing area (showerstall size or larger) why not buy a ultrasonic cool mist humidifier to raise the RH to higher levels? They only cost $30-$50 at almost any pharmacy and work very well with any number of add on devices (timers/humidistats/etc) to control their fog output.

    I do not think your N. northiana would be happy with temps that cold at night. The plant is said to grow from "sea level" up to only 500 meters in altitude. this limits it's natural habitat to the very hot and steamy lowland climate of Borneo's Bau district in Sarawak. The humidity range of the Sarawak state is at it's lowest reading of 60% RH in direct sun on a clear day and increasing to 90% at dusk. Most days however are cloudy or overcast and not clear, and the humidity is more in the 75-80% range at noon and rising to 90% before the almost nightly rains. (from National Parks of Sarawak book). And Nepenthologist (?) Charles Clarke states (in Nepenthes of Borneo book) that at no time during a year of study did the high/low thermometer left in the lowland wilderness drop below 72*F.

    I try and mimic my Neps natural conditions as close as I can so they will hopefully grow fast since they are in their prefered conditions but not stressed by the rigors of life in the wild. So I don't know for sure how they would perform outside these kinds of conditions but many people say N. northiana is finicky so I would not try it unless I knew I would be satisfied after going through all the work and price of acquiring and growing it.

    Your temps sounds more like intermediate and would be good for non-definate lowlanders (too cool for them) and non-definate highlanders (too warm for them). Things like N. clipeata, campanulata, burbidgeae, maxima, truncata, eustachya, alata, veitchii, fusca, etc. would probably agree with those conditions. Species that either have a more intermediate altitudinal range or have a very very wide distribution in many different habitats. It's harder to try and choose things that will all be happy in one middle of the road setup.

  3. #19

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    I like the look and feel of coco chips. I soak them and change water for more than two nights, though. I noticed that with these, and orchid bark, that after soaking, the coc chips smelled like pine-sol. I did not like that, so I kept changing the water every couple of days, and I finally noticed it stopped after several weeks. Now it smells clean, but not pine-sol clean, lol.
    When adding peat to a mix, a little portion sort of "binds" the mix together, so it does not seem like a bunch of chunks, but one light, fluffy mix. I hope someone can explain that better than I just did. I use peat with bark or coco chips, perlite, NZ or chilean sphagnum and charcoal.
    On the flouride aspect of perlite, "I think" (note the quotes) that the build up can happen if you use water with flourides. I don't see how that would happen with RO water(can't squeeze blood from a turnip and all).

    Regards,

    Joe

  4. #20

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    Can worms, open, everywhere.

    That's my first attempt at modern poetry. I'm so confused now. I guess I'll try what trent says: hey, don't argue with a guy who's been to Sarawak. Not to mention the weather information.

    I can barely find it on a globe, and I know where to look.

  5. #21

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    Er, swords says. Trent and swords, whatever.

  6. #22

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    Beagle, Seriously, the best northiana I've ever seen was the one grown next to the auto propagation misters in the Miami greenhouse. It was potted in the same mix he uses for rafflesiana, bicalcarata, alata, in other words, nothing special. It is very well drained, as all Neps should be grown. We are finding the shade and humidity issue is critical. Northiana really does not like humidity drops, even if slight. Our plants are looking so much better since being placed in those big clear plastic storage containers, and then putting those under the benches. Maybe you should try that, and then bring the whole thing in when temps fall below 65F.
    Trent

  7. #23

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    The northiana is in a plastic covered rack now -- it wasn't before. That should keep the humidity up. The condensation suggests that it is working so far. I hadn't actually covered anything -- aside from the general situation back there -- until now.

    I'm not too worried. It's been growing slowly, albeit not looking so great. I'll just give it some time. Having just transplanted it twice in one day, I'll give the poor little north a break. It's so small you could mistake it for a butterwort.

    I'm going to have to bump the humidity on all the neps soon. Usually around the end of October we get some truly cool and dry weather. I have grow house (4 tier rack) space for everything. If need be, I've already got the bedding area in the back yard scoped for the little greenhouse I bought. Out go two bedding plants to another part of the beds, in goes the greenhouse. I will put the grow houses in the greenhouse and steam the house up to deal with some temporary nighttime lows or serious dry.

    Then, if it gets really cold, I guess I'll be using the ladder to arrange some neps over the shower in the bathroom.

  8. #24
    Guest
    Hmm, thanks [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]. My coniditions prove to be satisfactory for just about everything (from some ultra highlanders, to bannana plants [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img] ) exept nepenthes like the ultra lowlanders, and a few extreme highlanders. Some wont grow at their full potential, but they all grow fast enough for me, and pitcher often (this including N. lowii and N. burbidgaea). It would probably be better to put my N. northianas in a propogator dome, while they're still relatively small, so the temps and humidity inside will be high. That should also keep them warmer at night also... I hope it'll work [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif[/img] .

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