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Thread: Indoor growroom electrical hookups

  1. #9

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    By the way, depending on ceiling height and greenhouse height, you may find the fan on the MH light to be overkill. I have a foot above and below with no fan and my highlanders are happy as clams.

    joe
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  2. #10
    swords's Avatar
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    Thanks Joseph!

    I have a 400W MH over my lowland showerstall chamber in the living room and it doesn't need the fan setup that I built into the light box (I assumed I would need to fan to keep the plexiglass lid from melting) but infact the 400W MH doesn't even heat the terrarium like the flourescents did (it is a remote ballast type however).
    I figured that the 1000 watters might be too warm though. Maybe not! That would be nice! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]

    Can anyone explain to me how many watts equals an amp, or how to figure out amperage? I thought 1000 watts equalled 1 amp but Joseph said a MH will draw around 10 amps. Is every 100 watts an "amp"?

  3. #11
    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    reread my first reply

    T
    Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?

  4. #12
    swords's Avatar
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    oops! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif[/img]

  5. #13

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    Here is my contribution to stupid questions:
    When using a AC unit to cool a highland chamber in a basement, does it have to be fixed into a window , or can it just be fixed to the side of the chamber with the back just inside your basement?

    Regards,

    Joe

  6. #14
    swords's Avatar
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    A window AC unit doesn't "have" to be out a window but AC's will drip as they pull the moisture out of the air. A pail beneath the rear of the AC unit to catch condensation is a must.
    Other than not sticking the rear of the AC out a window (as I do now) I plan to set up everything else the same that it is now. Have the AC outside of the grow room (but at head height so the cooling effect would be better than it is for me now) and the output directed through a much shorter length of duct tube with a humidifier interception so that the AC will not dry the cold air when it blows into the chamber at night.

  7. #15

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    As far as a dripping AC, I made the floor of my greenhouse out of linoleum (sp?) and tilted the AC down a few degrees so that it drips into the greenhouse. The water evaperates off the floor pretty quick and helps a little with the humidity.

    My AC is not hanging out the window, but I do keep a window open during the summer.

    swords, figuring that you are going to be using standard magnetic ballast and MH bulbs (not the expensive pulse start systems) you can figure on your system running at about 80% efficiency, meaning that for every 1000W of MH light your transformer will dissipate about 250W of heat for a total of 1250 watts. Watts/volts=current.....1250W/120V~10.5Amps

    The new overprices pulse starts only run about 84-90% efficient and you have to buy thier bulbs, I wouldn't bother.

    1000W bulbs get very warm...very very warm...but if you don't touch it and the air is allowed to freely circulate around it then there is no prob. The end effect is that you will be putting the equivalent of a 2500W heater in your basement and running it all day. With free air circulation you aren't going to melt your greenhouse, but surely you can see that basement ventilation will be necessary to keep temperatures from rising. A simple exhaust fan or open window works for my little basement.

    What is really neat is if you run the lights past 8[img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif[/img]0pm or so and then go outside and look at the view your neighbors get....."o ya, he's growing pot"....

    joe
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  8. #16

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    ummm...that goofy looking head isn't supposed to be in my last post.
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