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Thread: Nepenthes feeding

  1. #33
    swords's Avatar
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    I have had good results fertilizing N. rajah, N. hamata, N. bicalcarata and N. fusca and some N. maxima hybrids that I don't know the exact parents of. I did not use osmocote or any other time-release granules but Urea Free orchid fertilizers made into a soft (1/4 strength) solution and fed both foliar and through the soil. Aside from the above the other neps just continued on at what appears to be their normal Nep speed, my N. ramispina however showed increasingly smaller pitchers until it made none at all. Stopping fertilizing has made it's pitchers nice again plus the plant is much bigger. I wonder how it would affect the health of the plant to heavily feed a slow growing nep (say N. lowii) and say "d@mn the pitchers" and then after it reaches a respectable size then repot and quit fertilizing and see if it causes it to then make big pitchers sooner... anyone ever try that to see the results?

    Rob, when you say you repot every six months or so do you entirely wash off the soil from the root system or simply move a plug with the rootmass (undisturbed) to a new container, basically just doing away with the bulk of old soil? Do you only repot due to the slow release fertilizer or as a rule even for un-fertilized plants?

    Back on the topic of traditional fertilizing (i.e feeding with insects) it only took 90 minutes in the freezer to euthanize the crickets I purchased today (usually I leave them in there overnight).This is the first time I've done a feeding only two or three weeks after the last. I also fed every pitcher (large enough to feed) that has not shriveled or discolored, I think I could be getting better results from feeding more often and by utilizing the older pitchers. In the past I've only fed the latest 3 pitchers when I did feeding but I got to thinking, in the wild there would likely be insects attracted to the old pitchers. Perhaps insects of different types if the nectar glands are not active on the old pitchers.

  2. #34
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    Question

    Leave a banana outside for half a day to let the fly’s lay eggs and then let the eggs hatch where you lay the banana and maggots turn into fly’s, its a lot easier than catching fly’s.

  3. #35

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    Hi Josh, a bit of a belated reply. Sorry about that.

    Quote
    Rob, when you say you repot every six months or so do you entirely wash off the soil from the root system or simply move a plug with the rootmass (undisturbed) to a new container, basically just doing away with the bulk of old soil? Do you only repot due to the slow release fertilizer or as a rule even for un-fertilized plants?[/QUOTE]

    Firstly, I never disturb the roots unless absolutely necessary. We use pure cocopeat here which breaks down completely over a period of 1-2 years. For small production plants (less than about 12" dia) we repot frequently, preserving the root ball. However, some of the older stock plants in the lowlands which are over 12 feet tall have been left alone. The potting media has broken down and almost washed from the pots entirely leaving nothing but a massive root ball. The plants just keep on going, pitchering and flowering as normal.

    These plants are just strange. If all other conditions are correct they can manage with one factor entirely wrong. I have several N. bicalcaratas that grew up from seedlings in 3" diameter pots. They are still in 3" pots now and are over 4 feet in diameter. I suspect that if the humidity were to drop too low or they were not watered for a day or so they would croak immediately.

    Finally, slow release fertilizers. I believe that Tony is absolutely right in saying that natural feeding is the best way but slow release has it's place. As promised, here's a horribly out of focus photo of an 6" stalactite under one of our benches.

    Rob

    Rob Cantley
    Nep Nut in Sri Lanka
    http://www.borneoexotics.com

  4. #36

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    Rob,

    Oh please give us a pic of the 4' diameter bicals in 3" pots!
    Do you think they would somehow get bigger if repotted? I was thinking that was pretty close to max diameter.

    Joe

  5. #37

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    BTW, I have a reptile supply catalog that has dry roasted mealworms(yummy) for something like 2000 for $17.99 and 10,000 for $55 or so. It claims that they don't really go bad. I imagine they are cheap because you might have to trick your lizards to take non-moving food, but the Nepenthes certainly would not object.

    joe

  6. #38

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    Hi all:

    Talking about diets:

    I just bought a container of axolotl food. it contains at least 50% protein and 9% fat 7% fiber. The rest is not mentioned. they are tiny pellets so I am trying to see how it goes. Since here in Australia is very cold at the moment, there are no available insects to feed my plants!!!. I tried crickets, but Usually they exceed in numbers to the number of pitchers available for feeding. therefore, they die soon after and it is a waste of money.

    Let's hope nothing major happens to my pitchers.

    Gus

  7. #39

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    i have not fed my nepenthes in a long time, a year probably, i noticed they are growing slowly,... look pretty healthy but growing slowly, i was wondering if this http://exoticgardens.zoovy.com/product/CRICKETS would be any help to them, i will read some more on feeding them, they are inside a screen and do not really catch many of there own food, so i think this stuff will be a nice meal
    Expression = Maneuverability x Coiffure squared

  8. #40
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    How about frog pellets? They are so PROTEIN that you can smell them before the lid of the jar is completely off...

    More importantly, they DELIVERED legs to my bullfrog tadpoles in 2 weeks flat...the over-the-shelf amphibian pellets didn't work so I went to consult the old uncle who sold us the tadpoles...he owns a bullfrog farm... [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rolleyes.gif[/img]

    Anyway, I'll experiment someday...

    Oh btw, thanks to Tony and the rest who posted on this thread, I fertilised my neps with orchid fertiliser and they are looking much better with more green on the leaves.



    Cindy

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