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Thread: Nepenthes feeding

  1. #57

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    I have always fed my nepenthese with chemical fertilizers, no particular brand right now im using some new fertilizer my local orchid house is making, seems to be working nicely so far at least for my nepenthese. Its a 1-0-1 and i think my orchids want more N and P.

    But I almost forgot, Josh was correct, I have fed toads to truncatas in the past. The key with large prey like that is that you have to not care that it smells like a rotting carcass in your greenhouse. No seriously though it reaks thats why its best to use something thats been dead for awhile so its nice and dehydrated, thats why i prefer toads only after they have been accidentally stomped on. This happens alot in northern greehouses because toads like to over winter in them.
    Peace

  2. #58

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    I feed my plants every two weeks now, after a discussion with swords. As for what I feed them, it depends on the size of the pitcher... Here is a list of the items:

    Can o' worms (mealworms) I sometimes cut these into smaller pieces for smaller pitchers. Great food.

    Can o' crickets (large) I only feed these to the huge pitchered plants like N. rafflesiana and N. x 'Judith Finn'

    Fluker's freeze dried crickets: A little smaller than above, great for medium sized pitchers

    Freeze dried freshwater shrimp/Gammarus pullex (these are pretty small) After an experiment with wonderful results, this is my small pitcher food of choice. Really works!!

    Fish food flakes: In smaller pieces of food, these work quite well.

    I try to feed as big of a variety of foods as possible, that way, the plants get all of the nutrients they possibly can. I normally feed every open pitcher, usually with a different food item in each. Every month or two, a few drops of milk are given to some pitchers. Like animals, every plant seems to react in its own way to certain foods. I feed pitchers something easy like the shrimp their first meal, and I step up and up to the highest protein/fat content items.(the mealworms) This allows the pitcher to produce the neccesary acids/enzymes to break down the food. Also, please note that with nonliving food items, it helps to shake the pitchers a little for the next couple of days, to simulate prey struggling. This is my experiance after quite a while.
    Just my 1/2 of a penny times four.
    GOOD LUCK!!

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  3. #59

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    Also,
    I think this is pretty obvious, but I only feed active, full of enzymes pitchers. Make sure the food item can be fully submerged in the enzymes. When first getting a plant, resist the urge to feed it right away. Give it some acclimation time... Probably minimum of a week from my experiance. GOOD LUCK!! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img] [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/unclesam.gif[/img] [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/cool.gif[/img]
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  4. #60
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    has anyone tried selcon? its a fish food suppliment that is pure HUFA or highly unsaturated fatty acids. I've been wanting to try it but I currantly don't have any pitchers I'm willing to sacrifice.

    its kinda of expensive and comes in alittle 4 oz bottle with an eye dropper. It has apicture of a clown fish and its pink.

    just an idea.......what do you guys thinki?
    https://www.instagram.com/hull.jess/ (I post pics of my plants there)

  5. #61

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    i feed mine with dried brine shrimp ,only because i happen to have it with the frogs and newts and turtles i have.
    ~Brandon~ aka ~Carnivorkid~
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  6. #62

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    I used milk and flake fish food for a while, but now i use almost exclusively koi (high protein) pellets. I haven't had the problem Tony mentions with the pitchers browning at liquid level, but i don't feed very heavily. There is a noticeable progression in pitcher and leaf size when i feed every week or two, and when i stopped for the last two months, things slowed down a lot.

    The flake food tends to stick to everything, and invariably ends up stuck inside the pitcher above the liquid level, which damages the pitcher.

    Milk is good for small pitchers, where you can just get a pipette in. The problem is that spilled milk tends to brown the pitcher, IME.
    There's no 'a' in perlite.

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  7. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] (D muscipula @ May 14 2004,4:59)]I used milk and flake fish food for a while, but now i use almost exclusively koi (high protein) pellets.
    'koi' as in koi carp, I take it?
    \"Feed me, Stevie! Feed me all night long!\"

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    Should I go and perform mutilations?

  8. #64

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    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] (Stevie D @ May 19 2004,8:31)]
    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] (D muscipula @ May 14 2004,4:59)]I used milk and flake fish food for a while, but now i use almost exclusively koi (high protein) pellets.
    'koi' as in koi carp, I take it?
    I used to use those, too. I should start up again [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif[/img]

    My maxima stopped pitchering after feasting on the mouse head... too much food is just as bad maybe?

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