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Thread: Metal halide wiring

  1. #9

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    Sword, black to black, white to white, cap off the green with a wire nut and your set.
    George McKay

    In The End We are All Dead
    Florida

  2. #10

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    Speaking practically, I think George is right. You start with a ground, then go without one, then go to a ground.

    The white is neutral, green is ground. If it will make you feel better, attach the green to anything ferrous with a screw.

  3. #11

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    well with looking at the set up now from the picture. that is what i would do. heck i really dought he is going to be inspected. i'm not a licensed contractor but, i did go to school for a one year for a/c & heating and besides that my dad is a building inspector and has his G.C. not bragging thu
    George McKay

    In The End We are All Dead
    Florida

  4. #12

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    I think your asking for trouble, have you ever seen a manufacturer ever leave a ground loose?
    No, why, because its unsafe!
    Just anchor the screw on the box that youve mounted the mogul socket to assuming you havent mounted the mogul socket to the wood.

    Peace [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]
    Peace

  5. #13

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    no i havn't seen a manufacture leave a ground loose but, i have seen them capped off with a wire nut if not needed in a house hold but, if ya want to be safe since you are have humidity in the air at all time i would electical tape everything so it is water proof.
    George McKay

    In The End We are All Dead
    Florida

  6. #14

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    Hi Josh,

    the green wire is for grounding the reflector of your metal halide lamp, which is most propably made out of metal (i.e. aluminum). MH lamps do need a voltage of 4-5kV to start lighting and especially in a humid environment it is an extremely high risk not to ground all surrounding conductive metals!

    Be cautious!

    Joachim

  7. #15

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    From a professional EE point of view, cut yourself a lenght of wire to use to connect the green wire to the metal reflector. Just in case the bulb explodes from water contact. 120 wont hurt you but it will start a fire.

    Another point of view, the green wire is connected to the 3rd prong on a plug that everyone cuts off so that the plug will fit in one of those cheap extension chords. My lighting currently is ungrounded and the only problem with it is the mild shock I get if I touch the reflector while I'm barefoot on the concrete basement floor. (you won't have this problem, it's a florescent lighting thing).

    joe
    Signature.

  8. #16
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    The bulb will probably never come in contact with any water as it will be seperated from the "growing area" by the terrariums lid glass.

    So I should attach the green wire to my reflector (it's made of bent aluminum)? I will not be turning the lights on and off but running them on a grounded timer. Is there any certain Voltage the timer needs to be? The ones I have are rated at 1825 Watts but no mention of Voltage. I could add I do automate my Highland tank's air conditioner on one of these grounded timers in the summer and have had no problems but I don't know if that's the same as a high output bulb....

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