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Thread: Highland photos

  1. #9

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    Thanks for telling me that Tony. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img] I thought it was either way. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif[/img]
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  2. #10
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    Hey that's something I didn't know either (insurance covering only a lost package, not destroyed contents).

    My highlanders are all in the same mix of aproximately: 25% small chipped orchid bark, 70% Long Fibered Sphagunum and 5% (or less) small charcoal chips.

    The only deviations are that I have added laterite clay granules to one N. rajah (not the one shown but an offshoot from the one shown) and Seachem's Flourite granules to another N. rajah offshoot to experiment with a heavy iron and heavy iron/magnesium contents in the soil. So far the small rajahs have gone from 2 cm to 8 cm with no problem but nothing exceptional has happened with the extra elements.

  3. #11
    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    well technically it will cover damage but with live stuff there are a whole bunch of restrictions. Even non live stuff you have to prove various things such as proper packaging and what not..

    T
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  4. #12
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    Question

    Dude you have got to be one of the most luckiest collectors ever! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif[/img] You have an amazing collection of cool and rare highland plants, specially with that Raja! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img] Man I would love to have one! Keep that work up!
    Mom says: "Its stupid to collect plants that all look alike! Get a new hobie!"

  5. #13

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    Yeah, it was weird. The day after i got it the new leaf unfurled, and the tip and the base of the growing tip looked fine, but the middle was a bit black. Of course, the rest of the tip above the dead area eventually shrivelled and turned black, too. There is about half a centimeter of green tip left, and it has a bit of a cleft in it like it's trying to unfurl again. I'm hoping it somehow does, and comes back from the dead. I was debating whether i should cut the blackened portion off to free it to open more easily, but hadn't the courage to do so until today when i saw that a bit of mold was on the dead portion!!

    Temps have been down to about 55-57F most nights, and 80 or sometimes a bit over 85F in the day (which i think is too high-right?). My main concern is that currently i can't give it air movement - it's either high humidity or airflow, and i figured humidity was the more important with hamata. After seeing swords' plants, i want to mimic his conditions as much as possible. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif[/img] What are your temps, swords? What kind of lighting does your highland terrarium get?
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  6. #14
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    I can sympathize with the hopeless feeling of watching a prized plant slowly melt.
    I don't know what hapened to my N. mikei but it curiously did the same thing as your hamata is doing now. I had it for several months and it had started to make new leaves and pitchers and then suddenly total meltdown. The forcast for your plant isn't good if it's afflicted with the same problem (perhaps too wet soil). I cut the blackened tip off with a sterilized scalpel but it did not help for long the plant simply sat stunned for a while and then continued to disintergrate at an even faster rate. It was a small 5 cm plant that arrived bareroot and almost dry, I thought since it was producing new (but small) leaves and pitchers it was settling in but looks apparently were deceiving. The whole meltdown scene took about a month, infact I threw the pot out saturday.

    My highland chamber has a yearly temp range of 65-85*F daytimes 45-60*F nighttimes the temperature ranges are the highs of summer and lows of winter. Temperature averages for 3/4 of the year is 75*F days and 50*F nights thanks to living in Zone 4a I can rely on the outside air to be almost perfect at night and only need to be humidified most of the time, from June til September I need to run an Air conditioner for my nighttime cooling but Isimply hook it up to an appliance timer and set my duct & fan from the window in front of the AC output when the lights go off the AC comes on and starts cooling the tank depending upon the ambient temps of the evening the temps will be droped to 50-60*F - 65*F on the very hottest nights of which there is rarely any. The humidity is always about 90% and the air is moving. I have the humidifier hooked up to a humidistat which is set just below 100% so just as water begins to condense from the fog the humidistat shuts off from a few minutes til the humidity drops about 5-10% then the fog kicks in again.

    Highland plants grow better in winter because they like the constant cool temps but these ranges seem to be sufficient for the species I am currently growing. Remember keeping the air moving also helps cool the plants down. If you have a fan inside the terrarium blowing on the leaves (along with a humidifier) they will become cooler simply by movement of the air and action of condensing humidity. Attaching everything to automatic timers makes doing all this a lot easier than it sounds!

  7. #15
    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    Quote (swords @ June 24 2003,02:15)
    Highland plants grow better in winter because they like the constant cool temps.[/QUOTE]
    That is if your heater in your greenhouse doesn't go out on you. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif[/img] [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif[/img]

  8. #16

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    Hello everyone. Kinda new to this place.

    swords, do you use any fertilizer on your plants? They are truly beutiful! What kind of lightning setup do you have?

    Best regards

    Robin

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