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Thread: Cuttings

  1. #9

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    Hi Joe,
    I've never done what you described, myself. I know Bruce Bednar does. I would like to hear Tony's experience on this too!

    Trent

  2. #10
    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    Hi Joe and Trent,

    From my experience the newer tissue at the top of the vine does root faster and more successfully than older sections. (as long as it is not so young that it is highly susceptible to rotting) They also recover faster and produce a larger plant faster since it already has a growing point vs. waiting for a lateral node to break growth. I also prefer this method because then you don't end up with a long rooted stem with a small rosette at the top!

    I believe this is from several factors. Younger tissue is able to dedifferentiate easier into callus and form roots vs older tissue. And auxin is produced in the tip of the plant where the youngest leaves are growing. A cutting from the midsection of the vine has no growing tip to produce auxin initially. And the tissue is older and takes longer/more difficult to form callus because of the age and lower auxin levels.

    When I do use cuttings from lower down I try and use rooting hormone and keep the upper most node near the soil since it is usually the upper most lateral node to form the new stem.

    Tony



    Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?

  3. #11

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    Tony,

    How much of the growing tip would you normally need to take to use it as a cutting?
    Lithops care info: If you take care of it, it will die.

  4. #12

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    Had a weird thing happen. A four(ish) node cutting just started making a pitcher on an OLD WHOLE leaf over a month after I planted it. That is an exception to the general rule. I would guess, overall, that the whole leaf experiment caused two cuttings to die. The experimentation was worth it, to me anyway.

    As you can see in the picture I shot, the one whole leaf cutting is lagging behind the others, and may not take. Not a good idea, but interesting.

    None of my older stem cuttings took. Since the leaves were mostly yellow and I was cutting it back for vertical growth anyway, eh, not so bad or surprising.

    I bet if I'd used Nick's technique some of them would have taken. I wasted them by placing a lot of the ugly stem above the peat. Don't know what my illogic was there. Photosynthesis through osmosis?

    [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif[/img]

  5. #13

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    And, of course, by "Nick" I mean TONY! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/alien.gif[/img]

    *SMACK!* That was my forehead. Sorry.

  6. #14

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    Quote
    One thing though, you should use a bag that is clear so the plant can still get light[/QUOTE]

    That is unless the light source is too intense, which you can use a colored bag to shade the plants.

  7. #15

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    My technique for rooting N. ventrata cuttings is as follows:

    1. I take several cuttings that have 2-3 leaves each. This is done so that the cut is made closest to the bottom leaf leaving a long stem.

    2. I cut half the leaves off.

    3. I place the cuttings in cups of water so that there is at least one inch of water covering the bottom of the cuttings. Normally this will cover the stem and not the first leaf.

    4. I check the water regularly and change as needed.

    5. After 1-2 months, new roots will have formed and I then transplant the rooted cuttings into 3 inch pots. The pots are then placed in a 10 gallon terrarium under grow lights.

    6. After an additional 3-4 months, there should be 2-3 new leaves with pitchers on them.

    Ask Ozzy and/orTechnoracer as they each have one of my plants rooted using this method.

    Hope this helps. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]
    Nick

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