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Thread: More pictures

  1. #25
    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    Joe, I usually put about 20 pellets or more (depending on pot size). For big pots (8inches and bigger) I just take a handful and sprinkle until it looks well balanced. I just apply to the top of the soil, like topdress with Osmocote pellets until it looks balanced. The trick to fertilizing with Osmocote is DO NOT overdo it as with any fertilizing technique. Go for a little at first then increase. For example I only have N. lowii getting fed from 5 pellets in it's 4 inch pot, normally I would throw down 8-10 pellets spread evenly on the soil surface in a 4 inch pot. N. villosa is fed from 3-4 pellets in it's 4 inch pot. So in a way you can almost 2-4 pellets a sq. inch. So for a 4 inch pot there's 8-10 pellets. A word of caution however, don't do this to if you don't water your plants also IE: evaporation and transpiration are slow like in a terarium, in a greenhouse these factors are quite high so the water is used up therfore requiring more watering, which also leaches excessive trace elements out thus giving you a more 'safe' fertilizing method. Also the onyl plant that has repsonded negatively is N. aristolochioides, DO NOT use fertilizer of any sorta on it, it won't pitcher. Just now the pellets are wearing out (4 months time) and it is beginning to grow faster and pitcher again. It got big but no pitchers. SO I got a bigger plant for a period of 4 months with no pitchers.

    Trent, South CA? Nope! I'm up north in New York, same County as Tony paroubek is in. It's nice to compare different greenhouse climates and have a person like Tony (nice as he is! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif[/img] ) close to compare and just talk about Nepenthes with. I don't drop temps at night right now, they do it for me [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif[/img] The heater however maintains temps at a safe level (precisely 50.0F (10C) I even get a few cool blasts with temps nearing 49.5 so a few of the other plants like it very much like N. villosa, N. rajah, N. hamata, N. lowii for example. But the trick to winter growing Tony and I think is to heat more in the day rather than at night. (warmer day temps with light equals better chance for good growth in our dreary winters) then at night heat at only what your plants NEED, not what you think they should have, this way you conserve on fuel for one thing, and the plants get the temps they are ok with but not harmful. Example" I have an 8 inch (20cm) across climbing stem N. mirablis and a 6 inch (15cm) N. merrilliana that experience 50 at night and aren't dead or showing a severe sign of stress. So with hotter temps (I have it at 70 or so in the day) the more intermediate/lowlanders are much more happier AND the highlands get thier nocturnal temperatures for good growth at night. So in a way it is possible to grow lowlanders and highlanders together if you have a night setback on your heating equipment. I cool my greenhouse in the hot summer nights with an Evaporative cooler and the exhaust fan, generally the fan doesn't run at night unless it's above 75F. And we usually will get a nice wind where I am, so by leaving the evaporative pad vent open the wind can naturally come through the moist pads and cools the greenhouse without using alot of watts for the exhaust fan to do the same thing.

  2. #26

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    Thanks. Very interesting. During the winter here in So.Fl. I keep the temps at 50 F and above when cold fronts push through and have never had problems with merriliana, bicalcarata or ampullaria. Usually after the fronts push through the following day is clear and low humidity, so the greenhouse is closed in and by 10 am the temp can push 85 F. We actually have to run the fans and open the door to bring it back down to 80, but have no problem maintaining 70 percent humidity. Like you said, the lowlanders can take the cool nights as long as they have warm, humid days.
    Trent

  3. #27
    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    I would LOVE to have a lowland chamber in my greenhouse, and it will be soon to be reality! This winter I am going to build one, complete with vents so it doesn't overheat and heating cables for winter. I think I am going to build one of my growing benches into it, just do it underneath. The sunlight is ok in the growing weather but in winter I'll simply use fluorescents to supplement that. So far with 4 4foot tubes 2 @ 3300lumens warm white and 2 @ 2000 or 1500lumens cool white the lowlanders do fine in my dining room with NO natural lighting. SO just think of what they would do out in the greenhouse, of course with heat!

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    Sounds like a good plan
    I'm still designing that "highland room" add on to the greenhouse that gets me a 58 F night from May to November, and selected weeks thru winter!

    Trent

  5. #29
    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    What cooling device does that use if you don't mind my asking?

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    An expensive one!
    I've spoken with some engineers about this and in terms of what would be commercially available: refrigeration, not air conditioning, would do the trick. Coils would be housed in a section of wall on the north side of the room. Fans, and a set back type thermostat sets temperature parameters for maximum high temps. This would be an 8x10 foot room. The compressor would have to be place on its own concrete slab nearby, but operations wise, this adapted "meat locker" cooler would be cheaper to run than air conditioners by quite a wide margin.
    It won't be cheap to build, but it's not on the agenda for the immediate future-maybe a year or two...

    Trent

  7. #31
    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    That's an excellent setup! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img] But I can see your expenses will be quite high! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif[/img] I was planning on making some sort of a highland chiller for those hot nights that aren't so rare up in NY in the mid summer. I remember one time we had a week or so of 75F and higher nights. And that's hot for us! But so far so good with the evaporative cooler I need to calibrate the distribution system so it will evenly wet the pads....I have NO IDEA how that is done though if you drill the holes too big it just goes to the first 3 holes then nothing...too small of holes results in not enough water coming out. I wish someone here if they had a cooler and how the water distribution system is metered on thiers.

  8. #32

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    For general purposes I've considered a cooling pad system to be run at night, but our relative humidity is so high in the summer I don't think it would cool enough. I doubt if summer night temps could be lowered below 70 F. Maybe some of the lower montane species would be tolerant if close to the pad, but the days would still be peaking for a few hours at about 92 F.
    Tonight and tomorrow night is supposed to drop down into the low 60's Everything in the greenhouse will enjoy!

    Trent

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