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Thread: Changing R/O filters

  1. #9
    Moderator Joseph Clemens's Avatar
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    My suggestion would be to check the TDS of your feed water (the water that goes into and through your R.O. membrane) and the TDS of your product water (the water you collect to use on your plants). The product water should be dramatically lower in TDS than the feed water. You should replace your R.O. membrane if your product water is higher in TDS than the purity you have decided to use on your plants. Or, if the degree of purity produced by a new membrane does not meet your needs, then you should consider alternative purification or augment your R.O. system with additional stages of purification, i.e. deionization, distillation, etc.

    Remember that TFC (Thin film composite) R.O. membranes are very sensitive to any chlorine in the feed water. It can quickly damage or destroy them. The carbon prefilter is there to remove the chlorine before it gets to the R.O. membrane. If the carbon filters' capacity to absorb chlorine is exceeded, the TFC R.O. membrane can quickly be damaged or destroyed.

    Using a TDS meter regularly is the only way to be sure you are not watering your plants with feed water.
    Joseph Clemens
    Tucson, Arizona, U S A

  2. #10

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    what's an acceptable TDS level for water used on CP's?
    There's a tunnel at the end of the light...

  3. #11
    Capslock's Avatar
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    My water supply recently switched from Chlorine to Chloramines. Does anyone know if this is better or worse for R/O membranes? Or for CPs?

    Capslock
    Malo Periculosam Libertatem Quam Quietum Servitium

    My photos are copyright-free and public domain

  4. #12
    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    Dyflam, generally all CP besides Nepenthes need water within the 0-15ppm range.

    Nepenthes can take 0-100ppm but if it is in the higher limits I would suggest repotting every year or two. I think my water is around the 5-8ppm range last I had it checked.

  5. #13

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    We change the filters on a regular basis-the carbons and sediment every ten months or so, and the big membrane every two years. We've never had a problem. Every two months or so I back flush the sediment and carbon filters and get some really nasty looking effluent when I do this. I carefully run the water backwards and forwards until I get clear water running out, making sure to run the water in the proper flow direction the last time I flush and put back in line. Afterwards, the RO setup seems to work faster.
    Another maintainence tip that may help...
    Trent

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    Does anyone have a diagram showing how idiots can change filters? Somebody set one up for me and I have no idea what is what, lol.

    Joe

  7. #15
    swords's Avatar
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    Ha! Pretty much the same with me Joe! I lost my "instruction manual" (the one sheet) and only have the "old people's Jar opener" tool to unscrew the canisters. I believe my 3 stage unit is as follows: first stage is the dual density sediment prefilter, first bottom canister carbon block prefilter and 3rd canister is the 75 GPD TFC membrane.

    Trent, I bought one of those "Flush kits" with my R/O unit but when I inquired about how to use it about 2 years ago nobody seemed to know what I was talking about so I never bothered trying to figure it out. Can you explain how to attach/use it? I bought a Kent marine flush kit which basically looks like a mini-ballvalve with an extra hose.

  8. #16
    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    Oh my loard...old peoples jar opener [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif[/img] [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif[/img] [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif[/img]

    Joe, basically the canister sumps unscrew, you cahnge them and the membrane housing just unseals with a turn or a button push, no biggie. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]

    Josh the flushkits allow more water to pass over the membranes, but I belive (from a friend [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif[/img] ) that all you need to do is take out the flow restrictor and let the unit run awhile, this allows more water to go thorugh the units and carrys excessive minerals from the membrane with it.

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