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Thread: Possible fungus?

  1. #33
    MadAboutCPs's Avatar
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    Hi,

    I've done some research into this, however sometimes, I have discovered that even from photos it is difficult to depict what exactly could be affecting the plant. From alot of the information I have discovered this could be a one of a number of fungus. Many sites only offer descriptions also and often the symptoms sound similar. Simply, it could be leaf spot, rust spot, etc...

    I would suggest using s fungicide such as Mancozeb. I have found that the risk of the strain becoming resistant is low. Furthermore the active constituent is 'ethylene dithiocarbamate'. And is multi site active. This is a broad spectrum fungicide and I believe has the same effect as that of trading as Cleary's 3336 (aka Zyban). The fungicide attacks the SH proteins in the fungus and is effective on contact on the area infected. You would use Cleary's if you have a major infestation, other than that stick with something a bit lighter as to not have adverse effects to your plant. The fongarid won't do the job as Tony mentioned it will only be effective agains damp off, pythium and phytopthora root rots.

    You may experience slowing down in growth for a week while the plant battles to return to a healthy state. After that it will be much happier.


    C
    [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile.gif[/img]

  2. #34

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    @ Tony,
    All are about the same other than the worst effected, which is the N. trubcata x ventricosa. On this particular plant the spots ‘appear’ to have increased in size very slightly and the plant tissue in the middle of the larger spots is starting to die off. So overall whatever this pathogen is it is not fast moving at this point.

    Although I would have liked to try treating this the week I rased it here, unfortunately I'm not having much luck getting one of the preferred fungicides right now. Add to this the multitude of varying recommendations I’m getting from different people (very confusing) and the issues with avavilability here ins Aus. and I am still no closer to finding what I want.

    I did try some of the Fongarid on the N. tuncata x ventricosa and the small N. sanguinea simply because I had it. But as already noted, I am an not expecting it to do much.

    @ Christian,

    Now, you see this is where I’m getting confused. My take was that the general consensus was to try a systemic fungicide that contained thiophanate-methyl, given it’s broad spectrum ability and, in the majority of cases, little/no side effects on Neps.

    You’ve thrown in yet another – “Mancozeb” which has a different main ingredient. From what I can see it is recommended for use with “ornamentals” (as most of the other recommended fungicides) so I’m assuming it’s safe? I can’t remember if you mentioned it on the weekend but have you actually used it with any success and specifically what did you try to treat with it?

    By the way, the active ingredient (or one of) in Cleary’s 336 (and Topsin and Zyban) is thiophanate-methyl. I can’t find any reference to any of them having this
    Dithiocarbamate that is in the mancozeb.

    I’ve also not been able find any comment about Mancozeb being systemic. Though I did find an interesting reference on fungicide uptake stating that most that are claimed to be systemic actually are not and they should be termed ‘penetrates’:

    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ] Another contradiction centres on the use of the word systemic. A systemic chemical by definition is capable of moving throughout a plant from leaves to stems to roots or vice versa. In fact, the only truly systemic turf fungicide is fosetyl aluminum (Aliette Signature®). Most other so-called systemics are better referred to as penetrants, because they either remain localised inside tissue or primarily move upward in the xylem in response to the transpiration stream.
    Fungicides: Plant Uptake and Mode of Action

    What I have found is that Zyban also has Mancozeb in it. So at this stage Zyban is still at the top of my list having both the mancozeb and thiophanate-methyl.

    I did have Banrot as my #2 due to having thiophnate-methyl (and etridiazole). But… what I find odd is that Zyban is recommended for a range of leaf related pathogens where as Banrot for root and soil related pathogens Why would that be given they both have thiophanate-methyl as the main ingredient?

    Man! My head is spinning…

    Aaron.

  3. #35

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    Aaron,
    Here's a link to some zyban.
    http://shop.store.yahoo.com/rosecare1/pez03.html
    (Hope its OK to post this link. If not delete at will)
    Hope that helps.
    Robin

  4. #36

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    Thanks Robin, but no good given I'm in Australia and I doubt VERY much it'd be an allowed private import!

    Interesting in that link to learn that Zyban is not a stand alone but a combination of 3336 and Fore!

    Aaron.

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    Hi all:

    I think that the combination of fungicides have become more popular due to the ever increasing number of resistant strains of fungus.

    It is very analogous to what happens in humans and antibiotics. we have to keep changing every 5-10 years.


    Gus

  6. #38

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    Aaron,

    Can sure understand your confusion.

    Thiphanate ethyl (or methyl) is a very effective fungicide. However, as Gus says, same as with antibiotics in humans, regular use will give rise to resistant strains. For this reason, most professional nurseries will alternate between diffferent fungicides. Fungicides sometimes contain several ingredients which may increase the spectrum of activity and reduce the chances of resistant strains emerging.

    However, some Nepenthes are prone to damage by some fungicides. Particularly pitcher peristomes and lids, so one has to be careful.

    Specifically, thiphanate methyl (or ethyl) is widely accepted to be very useful on Nepenthes. We have only seen superficial pithcher damage when using high doses and then only rarely. We have applied it at 10x recommmended dosage in trials with no problems observed in that particular trial athough we've found it best not to get it on or into pitchers.

    Mancozeb is something we are trialling intensively right now and would be very interested to hear from anyone who has found any evidence of phytotoxicity with Nepenthes. It's labeled for ornamentals but that doesn't always mean it's OK with our particular babies, especially when used long-term.

    We have used Aliette many times in the past as a drench and found no problems with the plants.

    Some fungicide can have truly horrible effects on Nepenthes. We once did a trial with a fungicide called Daconyl on a batch of 20 lowland plants. Recommended only if you want to bonzai your plants! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile_k_ani_32.gif[/img]
    Rob Cantley
    Nep Nut in Sri Lanka
    http://www.borneoexotics.com

  7. #39
    Somewhat Unstable superimposedhope's Avatar
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    People use certain fungicides as mutagens for cactus.

    Joe
    \"There is nothing here of interest to any nation, as a matter of fact there is nothing here but humans!\"

  8. #40

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    Hi All:

    To answer your question Rob: My neps drink Mancozeb and i think they've become addicted to it.



    Gus [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile_n_32.gif[/img]

    Now what we have to be careful is the concentrations that every one of us use may be different. I'll post my concentrations later.

    Gus

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