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Thread: Suffering fusca

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    Wink

    Hey guys. My fusca (Crocker range) is still doing quite poorly. Earlier it had mites, which I treated, but the plant is still suffering. It hasn't pitchered in months and still makes smaller and smaller leaves, except that the leaves look healthy unlike when the plant had mites. What could be wrong?

    -D. Lybrand
    Check my growlist! Nothing currently available for trade...

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    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    Can you post a picture and describe the growing conditions?

    Temperature day/night
    kind of light and amount
    Terrarium/windowsill
    moisture (humidity) levels
    Potting mix, water, anything else that might help explain the plants living conditions.
    Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?

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    I believe you still have mites. Mites are very difficult to get rid of. Did you use an effective MITICIDE?
    I usually use an aggressive spray program combining AVID and MAVERIK alternating on a two week interval for a four week run. I will finally do a repeat program adding MERIT to this alternate package just in case.

    Michael
    Morticia:\"Sic gorgiamus allos subjectatos nunc, 'We would gladly feast on those who try to subdue us.' Not just pretty words. but words to live by!\"

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    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    Mites are indeed troublesome. New leaves tend to be distorted and thick and fleshy like. On old leaves the underside of the leaf will get dry and brown looking. Often causing leaf edges to curl under slightly. Many of the chemicals available for home use from the garden center will not work on mites so check the package. Mites are not insects so your typical insecticides don't phase them. The products Michael listed are top notch for mites. Don't think you will find them at homedepot/lowes though! If you do still have mites and you can't find something that lists mites on the label, general smothering type products work.. like insecticidal soap, neem oil etc. They need to be reapplied at 2week intervals and you MUST test them on a sample plant first as I will not vouch they are safe for Nepenthes! Particularly oil based products which can be more of a problem for plants than water based products.

    If it's not mites then I would look into too warm temperatures, particularly at night.
    Insufficient feeding. You mention it hasn't pitchered in a while. Have you tried feeding it at all with some dilute fertilizer?
    Improper light/moisture levels
    Problem with the root system.


    Tony
    Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?

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    Tony is correct about nutritional disorders or low humidity and temperatures.

    But if you had mites, I can almost bet without seeing it that you still have it. Although the chemicals I listed may be difficult to get, perhaps if you have an orchid specialist in your plant group or some other plant group you belong to, may have it and or could sell you enough for a small fee.

    But don't despair, you can always use other substitutes. It has been proven that very hot water sprayed on the plant, while not causing much harm can kill mites. I believe a temperature of 110 degrees F can be used effectively with almost no effects on plant harm. Having a mist bottle of cold water to spray on afterwards or working with a partner would definitely help prevent translucency from hot water. The hot water method isn't 100% but with frequent use, is very effective. I read somewhere on the internet that cinnamon used in a suspended spray solution is also very effective against mites and that is how we came about to have a miticide called CinnaMite (seriously) not sure where it is, but plug a few words into Google and see what you come up with. Also lemon juice used in a warm water spray solution also works, but you may want to experiment on a less rare plant first before use on your special plant.

    While mites will concentrate in the growing tips, sometimes the removal of the tip and flushing it down the toilet or soaking in alcohol and discarding it would help remove the epicenter of the mite population.

    Mites can be seen with a good pocket magnifying glass. They have eight legs as opposed to six on insects. Its also possible to swab them away with alcohol but care should be taken not to dry out or burn the growing tips.

    Good luck and hope it recovers quickly.

    One hint: Mites dislikes water, so frequent misting with water would help. Add a spreader sticker to the spray solution to increase viscosity. Mites don't like being wet!
    Morticia:\"Sic gorgiamus allos subjectatos nunc, 'We would gladly feast on those who try to subdue us.' Not just pretty words. but words to live by!\"

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    Thanks guys. I used an aracnicide last time and the plant began to grow again so I think it must be a second wave. I don't have any temp monitors or humidity monitors but I can tell you it is in a terrarium with 2x4 fluorescents and shares a tank with N. x ventrata, N. khasiana and N. sibuyanensis, all of which are doing very well. I may segregate the fusca to prevent the spreading of mites.

    -D. Lybrand
    Check my growlist! Nothing currently available for trade...

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    I cannot tell anything about N. khasiana but N. sibuyanensis is a super stronger grower: it is growing in my lowland tank with 30C day and night, producin pitchers and making every leaf bigger. You can't tell is the condition are good with ventrata and sibuyanensis (maybe with khasiana?).

    good luck!!!!

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    The khasiana has doubled in size since I bought it, so if khasiana and fusca can grow in similar conditions then they have nothing to do with it. I'm pretty sure it is a second wave of mites.

    -D. Lybrand
    Check my growlist! Nothing currently available for trade...

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