User Tag List

Informational! Informational!:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: How do I flower these Utrics?

  1. #1
    Moderator Cindy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    2,435
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    How do I flower these Utrics?

    Anyone with tips to flower these Utrics? I need help because Singapore has a 12-hour photoperiod year round. Please let me know if I need to cut down or up the hours. I can't change the climate but I can shade the plants or put them under FL.

    U. bisquamata
    U. dichotoma
    U. livida
    U. longifolia
    U. parthenopipes
    U. praelonga
    U. sandersonii 'blue form'
    U. subulata

    Thanks in advance.
    Cindy

  2. #2
    wmgorum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Little Rock, AR
    Posts
    230
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Good luck with the U. sandersonii "Blue form." I've heard it's notoriously difficult to convince it to bloom. I've got some that's growing like mad (much better than my normal U. sandersonii) but I've yet to see a bloom on it.

    I think I've seen a posting on here about someone who had it bloom for them. You should search the forums and see what it says.

  3. #3
    N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L Pyro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    4,844
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have bloomed the "blue form" nothing too great all things being equal.

    Cindy,

    I have found that most terrestrials need some type of seasonal cue. I would start with a simple variation in light cycle. If you can go for a 14/10 and then work to a 10/14. Say 3 months @ 14/10, 3 @ 12/12 3 @ 10/14 and then a final 3 @ 12/12. Usually you will see blooms when coming up from 10/14 to 12/12 and again going from 12/12 to 14/10.

    If that does not work you can try coupling in a dry cycle. I always let the water in my Utric tank dry out and stand dry for at least a week before adding more. Sometimes this "dry stress" will trigger the plant to bloomn as a "survival" response.

    After that it would be a matter of trying to vary temps. Not sure how you could manage that (if you could manage that) but a winter cooling might help.
    'My love was science- specifically biology and, more specifically, when placed in a common jar, which of two organisms would devour the other.'

    See You Space Cowboy

    actagggcagtgatatcccattggtacatggcaaattagcctcatgat
    Hagerstown, Maryland

    --
    actagggcagtgatatcccattggtacatggcaaattagcctcatgat

  4. #4
    rattler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    missing, presumed dead
    Posts
    8,554
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    some sort of cue like Pyro said.....though ive done it fine without a light cue.....i used temp changes to do it, usually cool nights with warm days. main thing to remember is that they get good light. from what ive seen alot of growers dont think much about Utrics so they get shoved to the darker corners of their setups where Drosera and such dont do so well. sure they grow fine most of the time there but getting them to flower without good light is difficult. when i had 30 some species and was flowering most of them all the time i figured alot of my good luck came from the fact that i was growing them like my Drosera, lots and lots of light.
    cervid serial killer
    Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety
    I didn't get stimulated but he kept his promise on change, that's about all I got left!
    http://www.wolfpointherald.com/--http://www.safety-brite.net/

  5. #5
    Tropical Fish Enthusiast jimscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    18,768
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Travis & Sheridan beat me to it! But yeah, varying the photoperiod in one direction them the other, over time, along with varying the water level.

    On a practical note that is actually contrary, I had most of my Utric collection in a plastic storage container, under and artificial light. The photoperiod really didn't change much for a good 8 months, ~14/10 every day. Only the water level really changed. Temps varied a little, from 20 C to 25 C, as winter changed to spring and summer. Under those conditions, the sandersonii blue actually flowered. But so did the white and the livida, bisquamata, grammifolia, warburgii, calcyfida, subulata (which needs no coaxing), and two types of Genlisea. The dichotoma is now flowering, as is prehensilis, but they have been outside for the past 5 weeks. Never got praelonga or longifolia to bloom.

  6. #6
    Moderator Cindy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    2,435
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks, everyone.

    I am going to coax them a little with either the light or water then. The sandersonii blue form is flowering non-stop for a friend who grows them under 16 hours of FL in 23-24C. It's been a year...so his plant probably thinks it is perpetually spring or summer.
    Cindy

  7. #7
    Tropical Fish Enthusiast jimscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    18,768
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Cindy, here is U. dichotoma,



    along with U. prehensilis, as a tag-a-long:


  8. #8
    Moderator Cindy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    2,435
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks, Jimscott. I allowed the pots to dry out for week before flooding them again yesterday. Will probably do so a couple more times and see if they do flower for me.
    Cindy

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •