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Thread: U. reniformis

  1. #1

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    I just got a U reniformis. It came with one leaf and it is potted in long fibered sphagnum moss. I need info on the culture of it such as the temperatures it can take and the light levels.
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  2. #2

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    Mine is in Live LFS in a 6 inch pot which has holes melted in the sides all over. I grow it outside in a terrarium shaded for most of the day with a few hrs. morning and evening broken sunlight in warm months, and inside during the cold. It sits in tray water about an inch deep.

    I have frozen the pot solid with no harm to the stolons, and my source recommends a Sarracenia like dormancy (close to freezing with occasional freezes) once the plant is established in order to promote flowering in the spring when the plant resumes growth. I will probably try it this season, since my plant from seed is getting well established (2 years old about).
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    Thanks for the reply Tamlin. Do the plants naturally go dormant by themselves, or do you have to do force the plant into dormancy?
    Paradise found is paradise lost
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    The world is just big enough for us to not realize how small it really is.

    Change is the only thing constant.

  4. #4

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    Well, mine makes less leaves as the days shorten. When I froze it solid it was growing actively, and it bothered it not at all. My plant was fairly well established when it froze (I thought it would have gone to meet Darwin!) and when I unfroze it it sent out a rapid flush of new "lolons". Not sure how a new cutting would fare though. You might want to give it a season before you consider a long frozen dormancy.
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    Tamlin,
    It might not be absolutely correct, but if the term 'leaf' is good enough for Taylor, it would seem sensible to use it instead of 'lolon', which is just confusing and obscure.

    Giles

  6. #6
    N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L Pyro's Avatar
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    I will agree with Tamlin on the cultivation for the most part but I have the same clone and find it does well for me when treated almost like a typical house plant, watering when the LFS on the surface starts looking a little dry.

    As for dormancy, I'd wait till next year for sure.
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    Under my conditions, natural light and cooler winter temperatures, my typical, small-leaved and even smaller leaved 'alpine form' have all gone dormant for the winter. They are in large baskets of LFS, Peat and Perlite and I won't water them now until they resume growth next spring. They won't dry out totally during dormancy, but will be just moist rather than wet. I keep them at a min. temp. of about 8C (45F) over winter.

    Vic
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  8. #8
    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    Out in the greenhouse Mine continue to grow and just recently put up new leaves. They are on the bench with the rest of the Utrics growing in 'typical' terrestrial mix with the exception that they don't sit in more than a few millimeters of water. I guess if they go into some sort of dormancy I can let them dry out a bit and chill them down. Otherwise I will keep them going as is. The underground stolons are still growing well and the pots are filled with traps.

    Carcinos,

    The sphagnum should probably be removed as it is there to prevent the soil from getting knocked out during shipping (same for the other plants).

    Tony
    Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?

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