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Thread: Utricularia alpina

  1. #9

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    A part of my desk gets light, the other half doesnt.
    Carnivorous plants growlist:http://www.**********.com/cgi-bin....t=17597
    Onda je sultan pao mrtav do kostura

  2. #10
    Stay chooned in for more! Clint's Avatar
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    well if you must put it on your desk, put it on the side that gets light, naturally. you might be able to grow it on your windowsill but your U. reinformis didn't so so well so i dunoo. U. alpina seems to be the easiest of the eppiphytes.

  3. #11

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    I believe U.reniformis is doing well even though its stolons are dieying! I can see a fat root coming through the bottom of the pot and I can see stems with multitude of blladers coming through the holes aswell.


    Anyway, back on the topic! I need the questions anwsered, and I need as many tips as possible for it.
    Dino
    Carnivorous plants growlist:http://www.**********.com/cgi-bin....t=17597
    Onda je sultan pao mrtav do kostura

  4. #12
    N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L Pyro's Avatar
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    Dino,

    As Dodec mentioned there have been numerous discussions on this plant and others related to it in the past week. Try looking those threads up first and if there is anything they do not answer for you let us know
    'My love was science- specifically biology and, more specifically, when placed in a common jar, which of two organisms would devour the other.'

    See You Space Cowboy

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    Hagerstown, Maryland

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  5. #13
    N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L Pyro's Avatar
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    I'll make it a little easier for you too.

    Look here and here and here and here
    'My love was science- specifically biology and, more specifically, when placed in a common jar, which of two organisms would devour the other.'

    See You Space Cowboy

    actagggcagtgatatcccattggtacatggcaaattagcctcatgat
    Hagerstown, Maryland

    --
    actagggcagtgatatcccattggtacatggcaaattagcctcatgat

  6. #14

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    Oh never mind............................ [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/confused.gif[/img]
    I was looking for specific instructions like in Peter'Damatos book.
    Never mind........... [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/confused.gif[/img]
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    Onda je sultan pao mrtav do kostura

  7. #15
    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    Perhaps if you would stop demanding information and read what others have already told you, you would fine what your looking for. JustLikeaPill has already given you several posts in this thread on how he grows his. Dodecathon has given you excellent advice on potting mix.

    Pyro even went out of his way to do a search FOR YOU and provide links. Here is just a little of the information I found in looking at just the first two that he posted you take a look at.

    You want to grow more unusual cps? Don't expect everything to be handed to you. Do your homework. And mind your manners...

    From one thread about 7 down from this one you would find this from Pyro..
    "Jim,

    I grow all my Orchidioides in a 2-3" thick layer of LFS overlaying a substrate of orchid bark/tree fern fiber/lava rock (or clay pellets). An equal parts mix of LFS/orchid bark/perlite is also reported to work well. The important thing is to NOT grow them in media that is constantly saturated. I only water when the LFS starts to look dry, basically treating these guys like typical house plants. I would treat the tubers similarly though I would probably be inclined to go easier on the watering, never really drenching them until I saw actual growth."

    The next thread which Pyro so generously did a search for and posted links to.. From Tamlin.. "The tubers are a natural part of the plant. It is where it stores water to survive the dry season. They are always there on my U. alpina so I assume this is the same for your U. asplundii. I lost my first cutting of this species, and the second is not thriving for me by any stretch. Pyro has had it in cultivation for longer than I have so his advice would be the better I think. I just haven't had mine long enough to have felt it all out, and my plant is 2 leaves less than a half inch high.

    I just talked to a guy that has it growing in peat sand and has it flowering to beat the band. I am hoping to get some plants to experiment with, since this grows like a weed for him, apparently.

    On the happy side, my U. quelchii is growing like mad, behaving just as I had expected it would and much like U. alpina which I have mastered very nicely.

    My feeling now is that these plants want room to groove. They want to run, just as their terresterial counterparts do, and a more shallow container providing more surface seems to be what mine like. My best results are all out of their pots now, growing into adjacent media which I have kindly provided for them in the form if a net of living LFS. Man, my U. alpina IS just going crazy in the terrarium that lets it grow without encumberences like pot rims. I keep the moss happy with daily spraying. I anticipate U. quelchii is going to behave in the same way since it is putting out those feeler stolons over the pot rim.

    These are all remarkable plants, and I really hope to master them and get them sucurely into lots of collections. Utricularia will never be for the common CPer's I think, but to me they will always be the most personable of all the CP's. They are all so distinct!"

    Same thread from Pyro "Well Tamlin, thanks for the vote of confidence on asplundii. Yes indeed this plant always has tubers present, I find all the Orchidioides group do. I personally believe this trai has to do with their ability to grow as epiphytes but do take note that while D'Amato calls them epiphytes in reality none of the plants in the Orchidioides section is an obligate epiphyte and more often than not in the wild they will be growing as terrestrials. In cultivation they seem to respond better to an epiphyte based treatment but I believe this is because in nature their environment is not prone to the pure, waterlogged conditions that we associate with the "real" terrestrials. The terrestrial conditions that the Orchidioides experience is probably more akin to a normal house plant watering cycle, i.e. the soil dries out before getting a quick drench.

    I grow all my Orchidioides plants in LFS:live sphag overlaying a orchid bark:LFS mix. I top water about once every 7-10 days or when the live sphag looks like it needs it. My plants respond really well to this treatment and I have been successful getting single leaf with minimal stolon cuttings going with little effort in under this same treatment"
    Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?

  8. #16
    Stay chooned in for more! Clint's Avatar
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    its called the search function- use it. you can look it up on google, lycos, or any other search engine for that matter.

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