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Fertilizer

I know that we should not fertilize dionaea especially due to weak and sensitive root. However, could we use 'leaves fertilizer' instead of 'soil fertilizer'? We may use swap method not spray method for application to avoid media contamination.
Have anyone ever try it?

Regards,
syx
 
I fertilize all of my CPs.

Most of the ones with larger filiform leaves, I spray it on.

However the ones with lowlying leaves such as Dionaea and Pingucula, I just put a few drops on the leaves every one to two weeks.
 
Dave, thank you for your enlightment. I will try to fertilize my dionaea too... :)
 
Hmm... From my research and experiance, I can say that Dionaea don't need any kind of fertilization. I have read that they can take very small amounts of diluted fertilizer, but I have never read about the effects of "leaves fertilizer" being applied.
As long as they are getting lots of sunlight in the growing season, eat a bug once and a while, go through dormancy properly, have a change of growing medium after dormancy, and are watered properly they will do fine.

Why are you considering "leaves fertilizer"? Is there some problem with your plants' growth rate? Coloration? Trap size? Etc.?
 
Trap size is the issue. I want get greater trap... :;):
Note: my dionaea has been adapted to tropical condition. It has no dormancy time, it will green forever...
 
how long have you kept them under those coditions?

That might be the reason why they have small traps, because just like us, plants need to "sleep".

You can take all of the pills and vitamins you want, but if you don't sleep ever, then you'll get sickly and die, and it's no different for your Dionaea muscipula
 
agreed. your going to kill it! those small traps are from lack of rest. if you dont change the conditions...say good-by to your VFTs. fertilizer wont help a VFT anyways. not by making its traps bigger anyway.
Alex
 
They don't need it. Before I moved all my temperates to the edge of our lake I fertilized everything, though. I used half strength orchid fertilizer and misted it all over the leaves. Now they catch enough bugs that i'm lucky to see an open trap. Ever see a D. filiformis that's black with gnats? It's pretty nasty when you have to dig one up for a trade!

PS... sorry to anyone who has recieved a D. filiformis from me hehehe....
 
I got them on October 15, 2006 from Bogor... It is a baby dionaea. Here is the picture before I cut the 'dried' leaves.

dion061031sw1.jpg
 
  • #10
There is a reason why ppl have been giving dormancy to VFT's for many years. Some experienced VFT growers here and in other CP communities all have had vigorous looking VFT's for 30 years or so. All of them have got dormancy every year. I have personally seen a 10 yr old VFT in my uni greenhouse....even the guy there says they need dormancy.

I have so far heard only one expert Brad at the Cp Uk forums who says dormancy is not required....but I personally went with the mob...I don't want to kill my VFT's. I put the older plants in dormancy.

If anything..only the new TC plants I got are going to skip this years dormancy. next year for sure they are all going to get it as well.

I suggest you give ur plant dormancy too. leaf size is definately a indicator of dormancy time in a VFT.

check this pic which I found some place.

plantsforkids1917864770gl2.jpg


Your plant definately looks like its in winter mode.
 
  • #11
apart from the black dead leaves which are a sure sign of dormancy...even check the sarracennia.com faq....your plant looks amazing. By the general size...if you give this plant dormancy...it will grow really well next spring. Just do it. Follow dormancy instructions and put it to sleep.
 
  • #12
I agree with everyone here. Why deny this plant of something that it has built into it? That's like keeping the birds from migrating south, they'll die otherwise. Just give it what is natural.

-Ben
 
  • #13
...mmm, I think I should try as in sarracenia.com faqs for dormancy. Could I start in November?
 
  • #14
It is November, so just give them dormancy now.

-Ben
 
  • #15
Yeah... I agree too. Your plant needs to go into dormancy.

Late November is typically when VFT's go into full dormancy in their natural environment. So yes, starting dormancy in November is fine, as long as it lasts for a minimum of 3 months.

Do this and give it good care (especially good lighting), and your traps will get bigger and look healthy.

Good luck...
 
  • #16
Sorry, guys, I do not give my vft dormancy time... I give a few drops of amino acid solution in the traps (the traps is still opened) and ... the next traps are bigger! I will post the picture later.
 
  • #17
The plant looked like it was dormant to me. See this photo of dormant VFTs

Forcing a plant out of dormancy is generally a bad thing to do.

VFTs typically can grow fine for two years without dormancy, after that they begin to decline rapidly.

Developing a "tropical" cultivar would be difficult since the climate range of this species in nature is so limited. And since it takes about five years per generation to produce a mature seed producing plant, selective breeding would take some time. Even with tissue culture techniques it would take many years.

If someone has developed a "tropical" no dormancy VFT I should think the market would be flooded with TC plants of this type.

If you want big traps you should obtain a "Big Mouth"/B52 plant.
 
  • #18
<div>
(syx @ Jan. 02 2007,03:00)</div><div id="QUOTEHEAD">QUOTE</div><div id="QUOTE">Sorry, guys, I do not give my vft dormancy time... I give a few drops of amino acid solution in the traps (the traps is still opened) and ... the next traps are bigger! I will post the picture later.</div>
It will wither away. If you don't believe me, give it time and you'll see. By all means, you can try if you want. You might get the equivelent of finding the Golden Ticket and your particular Dionaea might be the lucky one who mutated into a a strain without a dormancy requirement. The odds of that happening are astronomical, you know that right?


Then you can throw it away and get a new one. Such are the joy's of tissue culture.
 
  • #19
GOD! I hate not being able to edit!
 
  • #20
you will know if your vft is dormant or not just from how thick its leaves are. if they are super thick and almost succulent...its dormant or in the process of it.
Alex

PS: your vft....is going to die. there is no way to help it. the only thing you can do is scrap it and get a new one. next time be aware of ALL its requirements. as much as people say....VFTs really arent begginers plants. some experienced growers cant even grow them. if you want somthing pretty, easy, and wont die(literally) then get a drosera like binata, capensis, or others.
Alex
 
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