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Thread: Are my Conditions for Dionaea/Sarracenia Too Hot?

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    Are my Conditions for Dionaea/Sarracenia Too Hot?

    Hello all. I have been growing two Sarracenia and a VFT outside and have come to wonder if my conditions are not too hot and dry. The temperatures are constantly 95-100+ degrees for almost all of the day and we haven't had rain in weeks. I am of course using the water tray method to keep my plants' soil damp, but I fear that this much heat is too much. I have currently moved my plants to an east-facing area that receives morning sun until about noon and then is in shade/heavily filtered light for the rest of the day. Is this enough light? If not, what can I do to provide more light without also cooking my plants? Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.


    PS. I definitely want to keep my plants outside because my house doesn't have any windowsills that get enough light to grow these plants.

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    Tastes like chicken! Exo's Avatar
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    Tell me....do the plants look ok?
    Some days it just isn't worth chewing thru the restraints.

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    Nah. They'll withstand temperatures into the hundreds if you keep them hydrated.
    "There is no pain as great as being alive,
    no burden heavier than that of conscious life. "
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    Tastes like chicken! Exo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brokken View Post
    Nah. They'll withstand temperatures into the hundreds if you keep them hydrated.
    I was leading up to that...but yeah.....pretty much the case, since I'm assuming his plants do not yet look like porkrinds.
    Some days it just isn't worth chewing thru the restraints.

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    The plants seem to be doing decently well. My S. x Judith Hindle has put out a few new pitchers. However, only one of them reached the height of the others and did not color up as well. My S. Leucophylla has put out many leaves, but only one developed into a new pitcher. I think this is to be expected though, because I read somewhere that this species tends to hold back on pitchers longer than most. One pitcher's lid seemed a bit crisp though. It might just be due to age. Finally, my VFT turned brown for awhile (acclimating/recovering from shipping?), but is now putting out healthy traps that have some color. However, the traps on my VFT are slow to close and take up to a week or more to reopen, even on small, soft prey.

    Note: I've only had these plants for roughly a month.
    Last edited by ArkansasNewb; 07-08-2011 at 06:24 PM. Reason: Added more info.

  6. #6
    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    From:
    Responses of Venus Fly Trap (Dionaea muscipula) to Factors Involved in Its Endemism
    Patricia R. Roberts and H. J. Oosting, Ecological Monographs, Vol. 28, No. 2 (Apr., 1958), pp. 193-218

    Note: by "zone" the authors mean the zones where Dionaea were present. Dionaea are seldom found growing in savannah in the areas of North Carolina used in the study.

    TEMPERATURE
    Records were kept of maximum and minimum
    temperatures from July 1955 to mid-September 1956.
    The widest range of air temperature (94) was
    observed at a savannah station (S1) where the minimum
    was 21F in December 1955 and the maximum
    was 115F in July 1956. The widest range (92)
    in a zone (Z1) was from 112F in July 1955 to 20F
    in December 1955. Since 1955 summer records are
    lacking for the savannah, absolute comparisons cannot
    be made. However, maximum temperatures in zone
    stations were slightly lower in 1956 than in 1955.
    Throughout the observation period air temperatures of
    both savannah and zone stations were very similar,
    except during the spring there was never more than
    2 difference in the respective maximum and minimum
    temperatures. In the spring, however, (end of
    March to beginning of June), the maximum air
    temperature in the savannah was up to 14F higher
    than the air temperature of the zones.

    Soil temperatures of the zone and savannah, on
    the other hand showed a more marked variation during
    most of the year, but especially during the spring
    when differences of up to 20F between the respective
    maximum and minimum pairs were recorded. At
    these times the savannah instruments recorded the
    higher temperatures. During the summer the maximum
    soil temperatures in the savannah were seldom
    below 135F while the zone maximum soil temperatures
    fluctuated between 110-135F. The ranges of
    soil temperatures were from 20F (Dec.) -135+F
    (summer) in the zones and from 22F(Dec.)-135+F
    (summer) in the savannah.

    There is probably a definite correlation between
    the high evaporation rate and the pure sand soil of
    the savannah and its higher soil temperatures. The
    soil of the savannah dries out earlier in spring and
    more completely than the zones so that the savannah
    soil temperatures show a more rapid increase in the
    early spring and reach higher maxima.
    Last edited by Not a Number; 07-08-2011 at 07:05 PM.
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    OMG soil temps of 135 degrees F. . I don't think I'll worry about the soil temps for my plants now.
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    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    As long as you don't let it dry out however the study noted that well developed plants (big rhizomes) will go dormant in the summer if the soil dries out. But I bet small pots get hotter than 135F in the sun.
    Last edited by Not a Number; 07-08-2011 at 07:21 PM.
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