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Thread: Help and advice for VFT set up

  1. #9

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    I do have my own place, along with a wife and 2 children, not at college anymore
    Trouble is I dont have the garden...I think I may have to donate the VFTs to my parent's garden.
    Shame really as I was hoping to get my set up to work, cant have it all though I suppose!

  2. #10
    scottychaos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aza View Post
    I do have my own place, along with a wife and 2 children, not at college anymore
    Trouble is I dont have the garden...I think I may have to donate the VFTs to my parent's garden.
    Shame really as I was hoping to get my set up to work, cant have it all though I suppose!
    ah! ok..now I understand!
    im still confused though about why you think you need "a garden"..
    (perhaps you are using "garden" in an English sense? lost in translation perhaps?)
    You dont have *any* suitable outdoor space? a deck? a patio? the edge of the driveway?
    or do you live in an apartment with no outdoor space of your own?

    Scot

  3. #11

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    Sorry yeah must be lost in translation...I have no outdoor space for my plants

  4. #12
    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    It seems to me your plants might be too close to the lights. T5s can run pretty hot. Stick a thermometer in there at the top of the pot level and report back. I grow flytraps and Drosera indoors under T8s all year round. There are to camps of thought: those that say you can't grow these plants indoors and those that do.


    Here's my Hosford Bog, Florida Dionaea muscipula


    Here it is under lights (about 4-5 inches away). Next to it is a cup of D. regia and D. glabripes cuttings.
    Grand Hotel... always the same. People come, people go. Nothing ever happens.

  5. #13

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    Thanks for replying
    The lights are just warm to the touch, not hot at all.
    The top of the pot is 5 inches away from the light.
    On the back row I have another VFT which is only 3 inches away from the light, but that is not suffering from the yellowing.
    Could it just be natural dying of the leaves?
    What about air circulation? Does it pose a problem for you?

  6. #14
    Iwest's Avatar
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    Just to chime in, I have agree with Scot. The problem with growing VFTs inside falls under the lighting and achieving a suitable ease into dormancy. As Scot said, high lighting is a must, and outdoors sunlight is really what they thrive in. However, dormancy is an even bigger issue why it's so hard to grow VFTs inside. If they miss dormancy/ aren't eased into dormancy do to decreasing temperatures and photoperiod, they tend not to do so hot the following year. If they do survive, they lose so much energy and are so weak they generally won't make it through the following season or two. If you must grow them inside, it would be a smart idea to get a timer for your lighter so that you can adjust how much hours of light a day they get when late Fall rolls around. Finding a way to let air in from outside or some other way to notify them of the changing seasons is also super important. I know I'm reiterating a lot of what Scot already touched on, but I definitely feel that, although not necessarily impossible (at least in the short run), growing VFTs inside will be difficult and hopefully some of this might help a bit. I also recommend high humidity and damp soil at all times. Although humidity isn't crucial (I grow mine outside year-round in dry California) it will certainly help, at least in the summer and autumn.

  7. #15
    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    There was discussion on this on the ICPS listserv. It seems that seasonal light cues are more important for dormancy then colder temperatures. That's not to say colder temperatures are not a factor however it is possible to grow Dionaea indoors long term under lights. Ask John Brittnacher, seed bank manager for the ICPS who grows his under lights.

    I visited Ivan Snyder yesterday. Here is his setup which consists of a wire bookself, two 4 ft shoplight fixtures and a timer. That's it.


    Here's his pot of Hosford Bog, FL Venus Flytraps. He's been growing those under lights since 2001. Note the flower stalks.


    And since you can't grow Sarracenia under lights either, here is his Crestview, FL Sarracenia purpurea ssp venosa var burkii, grown under lights since the late 90s


    Here they are from 2-3 years ago (I'd have to look up the exact date), note the flower on the Sarracenia:



    Here they are in March 2005, you can just make out the flytraps to the right of the Cephalotus in the second photo (photos by Forbes Conrad)



    Mighty unhealthy looking, eh?

    Air circulation is not a problem with wire shelves.

    If it is only one or two and the oldest leaves turning black it's probably normal aging.

    The first flytrap I had I grew in a bottle terrarium on a north facing windowsill for some 10-12 years. It would flower in the spring. It might still be alive today if my parents had watered it when I moved away for graduate school.

    There was a member here a few years ago that didn't want to grow his VFTs outdoors because they would get stolen. Many of the "outdoors only" crowd piled on him until have gave in and put them outdoors. Most of the plants were promptly stolen. I saw no words of apologies or offers to replace the plants from the "outdoors crowd".
    Last edited by Not a Number; 06-16-2012 at 09:19 AM.
    Grand Hotel... always the same. People come, people go. Nothing ever happens.

  8. #16

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    Thanks for the info, very interesting!
    It seems like this is one of those issues that has always (and will always) have people on both sides of the fence.
    You may have even made me reconsider about putting a fly trap on my north facing window sill, which is brightly lit all day, but obviously not directly

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