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Thread: Is my sprouting setup suitable?

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    nimbulan's Avatar
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    Is my sprouting setup suitable?

    I planted my first carnivorous plant (flytrap) seeds today and thought I would check with the forum to see if there are any changes I should make to my setup before too much time passes. I am using an old seed sprouting tray with some 3"-ish starter pots inside, filled with 50/50 peat moss and perlite. I also have a few standard starter trays with other seeds that will benefit from the heater inside (peppers, basil, etc.) There is an old heating pad underneath the tray sitting on some corrugated cardboard to hopefully direct more of the heat upwards. I let the pots soak in the rain overnight and then let them heat inside before sowing the seeds. For lighting I have a 2' 2-bulb T5HO fixture providing 4000 lumens of 6500k light hooked up to a timer set to turn on half an hour before dawn, and off half an hour after sunset.

    My main concern is that I might need to partially lift the lid on the tray to provide some air circulation since I have noticed that most people use covers with a few holes in them. How often should I spray the soil with water? Would reflectors be helpful? Should I have the heating pad hooked up to the timer as well or just leave it on all the time?

    Also I know my drosera adelae looks terrible. No matter where I put it it either gets sunburned or doesn't have enough light. I'm hoping keeping it under the T5 fixture will help.


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    You shouldn't need to spray the soil if you use the tray method. By the way, if your adelae is in peat like it appears, you might have better luck growing in Sphagnum. I like live best but dead works too.

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    nimbulan's Avatar
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    Oh I don't have any standing water in the tray, all the information I've been able to find about sprouting seeds suggested just keeping the soil damp and spraying it. It probably wouldn't be a good idea anyway since the non-carnivorous seeds in there have regular potting soil and I wouldn't want the nutrients leaching into the peat.

    I've been wanting to get ahold of some live sphagnum moss, thanks for the tip.

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    hcarlton's Avatar
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    I would really suggest moving the non-cp's and the cp's into different trays, or at least into pots without drain holes that could leak into the tray, as there is always a chance that the nutrients will leak out somehow. Also, Dionaea don't really need a covering to keep in humidity, I have plants that grow in less than 10% rh. here in CO on occasion. Seedlings appreciate it higher, but not necessarily the 80-100% that the humidity dome will provide, and very moist to wet soil that will promote the nutrient leakage from other pots.
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    nimbulan's Avatar
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    Nutrient leakage shouldn't be an issue. The bottom of the tray has a lot of grooves in it that will collect any extra water so the pots won't be in contact with it. It does decrease the efficiency of the heating pad though.

    I may try lifting the lid a bit to control the humidity though.

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