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Thread: Indoor Growing!

  1. #9

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    I think you may be jumping a head of yourself. Try to grow one first , you will learn a lot that way. As for the tea you only need to do that with old plants that have been in the same soil or a while.

  2. #10

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    alright thank you for the information!!! its very helpful...but the question i have is...i have ph ~down~ and ~up~ which you drop into water to lower and raise the ph level...can i just use that? and 6 is the right ph right?

  3. #11

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    Hi brandon,

    1) Best container-any plastic or glazed ceramic container at least 3in.
    2)Best soil-Peat:silica sand(1:1), peat:sand:perlite(2:1:1)
    3)Best type of artificial light- 4 40watt light(flourescent tube-4ft) kept around 6in or less from the plant.
    4)Best food-Insects such as ants for small flytraps and earwigs and flies(may rot trap). Daddy longlegs seems to rot the traps often, probably because the legs stick out creating a small airspace for bacteria etc. to enter.
    Do not feed the flytraps anything not living. Chances are the trap will open again because there is not enough stimulation of the trigger hairs. Egg white, and hamburger meat may rot the traps. Even small pieces often cause black spots on the trap.
    5)Humidity-at least 40%, preferably 55% to 80%.

    You are right about the leaf cuttings.

  4. #12
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    Brandon,


    Are there any chemicals in lowering your Ph? I wouldn't use something that would contain any type of chemical.

    And I agree with the rest of the people. Lowering the Ph is something that can be done later.

    How long have you had your plants? Have you ever repotted them?

    And to answer your question about the number...I don't know at what point (1-10) is the best. I know you don't want something that is really alkanline (sp)...Higher than 6. If you can keep the number low...which if you have the plants in peatmoss/perlite ( or sand ) something that won't affect the Ph in the peatmoss ( which is to be acidic ) You should be cool. [img]http://www.**********.com/iBhtml/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]

    I hope that helps. Let us know what else we can do for you!

  5. #13

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    Alright i am getting somwhere with these forum's! There really helpful... ok i have another question concerning leaf cuttings....now that is the best way to produce vft's or is there a better way besides going out and buying more! alright and lead cutting...
    1) Pick strong mature leaf off the plant right to its whitish root conncecting to the buld of the plant
    2) then wat do you do?[img]http://www.**********.com/iBhtml/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif[/img]??? like you get the leaf and just insert the leaf into the dirt?
    3)wat type of dirt?
    4)wat type of humidity?
    5)wat type of lighting?
    6)forhow long?
    7)wat am i looking for-for signs of life?
    8)how long will this take? 9)
    have many plants can i get from one leaf?
    9) does this affect the plant?

  6. #14
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    Wow!! [img]http://www.**********.com/iBhtml/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]

    Ok

    1) you got it. Strong leaf. You want to pull down GENTLY so you get some of the white part, but do not really harm the plant

    2) put it into dirt. I guess you could some rootone ( rooting hormone ) or Superthrive

    3) The dirt is the same as you have it planted in now. Candanian Sphagnum Peat Moss ( ONLY) We recommend Schultz brand. Then mix that with perlite. You can 60-40 or 50-50

    4) Good humidity. Above 60%. It would be best to cover the cutting to allow for maximum humidity. That with some lighting should produce the plants for you.

    5) Lighting doesn't have to be real strong ( at least for me ). Low light to medium light. You don't need a lot.

    6) This takes from 6-8 weeks to produce babies

    7) You are looking for small plants to form around the bottom where you planted the leaf in the dirt. They will be forming all around the leaf ( that is why you need the white part of the plant )

    8) reference #7 [img]http://www.**********.com/iBhtml/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]

    9) This doesn't affect the plant. As long as you don't pull off a lot of the white part ( which is the rhyzome/bulb). Just be gentle about it. YOu just need some and not all.

    If you have more questions, please ask! [img]http://www.**********.com/iBhtml/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]

  7. #15

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    THANK YOU FOR THE VALUABLE INFORMATION!!!
    however i have yet to stop asking questions lol!

    alright so lets talk abotu bulbs...now my vft has a buld then growing out into a root...i understand that...but i heard you can sepearate the buld?? but first
    1) how do you do it?
    2) do you remold a part of the buld with its root?
    3) wat conditions do i use wen they are transplanted...ph .humidity,etc levels??

  8. #16
    Guest
    if you are talking VFT bulbs...I wouldn't slit them.

    Somtimes you can notice a 'new plant' growing. I would GENTLY break that part off.

    Splitting the bulb can lead to many problems.

    I would stick to cuttings, buying another plant or separating the babies. [img]http://www.**********.com/iBhtml/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]

    when you transplant something, as long as you have the right soil, the Ph level should be fine, I wouldn't worry about that.

    Humidity should be good ( greater than I say 60% ) as well as light( bright light, but not direct sun ).

    Questions are what this is all about, ask away... I am sure you are asking some for others ( that haven't asked yet [img]http://www.**********.com/iBhtml/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img])

    Hope this helps

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