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Thread: VFT Dormacy

  1. #1

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    Arrow

    Hi, I just wondered how many people's VFT's died of the bareroot refrig. Dormacy. Because I just put all of mine and put them in the fridge bareroot and with fungicide like the post on dormacy said to do. It seemed like though some of them aren't in the best conditions and some parts of the bulb (the outer parts) turned black and I peeled them off leaving the healthy looking white bulb. Will they make it through dormacy? I have several others that don't show signs of dormacy yet and was wondering if I should put them in the fridge bareroot or in a pot, or maybe in a garage where it never gets below freezing, but has very little sunlight.
    Thanks,
    Pete
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    The advantage to the garage is you can provide greater air circulation that this will discourage fungi. The darkness is not an issue. If the garage is on the cool side so much the better.

    The black parts of the bulb are not something to worry about as long as they are the outermost parts. These are the leaf bases, and their turning black is a natural process. If the black starts eating inwards then you have worries.

    I overwinter my plants in an unheated cellar where the temps are seldom higher than 45-50F and occasional freezes happen. There is very little light. I just leave them in their pots after trimming black parts off. I keep the pots just moist, and not in tray water. I have never lost a plant using this method.

    I have a friend in Brazil that grows VFT's and Sarracenia. His temps. never get much below 55F and the plants continue to grow over the winter, but at a much slower rate, and produce smaller leaves and traps during the short days of their winter. With the increasing daylength of spring, the plants resume typical growth. They prosper for him, increasing in size from season to season and they flower and fruit normally.

    One of the most important issues of dormancy is the photoperiod. Maintaining the plants under a natural daylength photoperiod (or less daylength, as in complete darkness) will go a long way toward maintaining their health. When the plants are given a long day photoperiod in winter, they try to keep growing, exhaust themselves and die.

    I never trim any leaves that are not black. Well grown plants will maintain their leaves throughout the dormancy, and the nutrients contained in the leaves will assist the plant's early growth in the spring as well as provide nutrition by translocating and breaking down starches stored there during the dormant period when there is little or no nutrient uptake from the roots.

    Temperature is a secondary consideration: cooler is better, but obviously not essential. Remember to check your plants: if they continue to grow, even if slowly, you must provide them with some watering but do not leave them standing in water until active spring growth resumes.
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    Does anyone know of VFts undergoing dormancy successfully with less photoperiod, but temps at around 28 degrees C?

  4. #4
    VFT and Drosera lover vft guy in SJ's Avatar
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    Hey eBeyonder,
    There was some debate about this subject a while back and I believe what was decided is that plants need both shorter photoperiod and cooler temps for proper dormancy. 28C is about 82F, I think that is prolly too warm for a proper dormancy. I dont know if it would kill the plant, (I suspect that it wont) but I dont know that it will be all that good for it either. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif[/img] If you have an extra plant handy maybe you could experiment with it and see what works best for you.

    Good luck
    Steve
    There are only 2 infinite things... the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not too sure about the universe.

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    28C sounds too hot to me as well, but then again I have never experimented. At least you have the opportunity to advance the knowledge of what these plants will and will not accept.
    "Grow More, Share More"

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    I've been using the refrigerator technique for about 30 years now.

    I've had it malfunction and freeze the plants to about 28F without any noticeable harm. I've kept them in their pots completely intact, and I've unpotted them, trimmed off all leaves and roots and kept them in a zip-loc with a little moist peat or Sphagnum moss. I've kept them in undrained containers where they were submerged under media and water. I've kept seedlings, germinated in petri dishes in the refrigerator for several years at a time --- all without loss of plants.

    VFT's seem quite tolerant, yet curiously very sensitive to many environmental factors.
    Joseph Clemens
    Tucson, Arizona, U S A

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    My vft and sarr collection would grow a lot more if I could say I have a handle on domancy. Till then it will stay small until I figure out how make most of my plants survive through the winter without dieing. The other problem I have is transplanting but I will not bore you with that subject.

    Travis
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    I live in north Texas. What are some signs that my vfts are ready to go into dormancy? This is my first year having these guys, so if anyone can help, I'll really appreciate it.
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