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Thread: Vft turning black

  1. #9

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    I am having the same problem. My once thriving vft is turning black, all parts of the plant are affected. New leaves turn black within a week or so. I tried the fungicide, but it did not help. Any other suggestions before it dies?

  2. #10

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    Check out its temperture

    Be sure that you dont burn it with your Floridian sun

    How many hours of direct sunlight does it now get

    If you arent sure about lighting it doesnt hurt to give it filtered light all day

    My plants are fine~I give them plenty of disstilled water
    temp are correct
    Here is my lighting, maybe its your problem for Floridian sun is strong
    7.00-4.00 Inflourescent light
    4.00-7.00 Direct sunlight
    ~I can probably make my light better, but this is what I can do right now

    I really think it might be the temp or lighting

    Hope it helps
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  3. #11

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    If only one part of the leaf is turning black, should you trim just that part off? and should you wait to cut a dying leaf/trap off until it is completely black/dead??
    Defying Gravity

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  4. #12
    chloroplast's Avatar
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    Hello all,

    I'm a fairly new member and have been posting largely on the terrarium forum. Thanks to the forum, I managed to create a beautiful terrarium for ~$200. I recently bought some CPs, including two VFTs, to put into the terrarium.

    I bumped this old post because my VFTs are also suffering from "random black spots on traps." The traps and leaves were green when I purchased the plants, and in a matter of a week, two of the traps have blackened. (The pictures within the prior posts show what is happening to my plant.) While this phenomenon may be attributable to "shock," some help from the VFT gurus would be appreciated.

    For some background, the plants were in shade during transportation and immediately placed in the terrarium where they sit in 1/2" of distilled water. They have not been fertilized or fed and the soil has never dried out. The conditions in the terrarium are: temp= 85F day & 78F night, light=80W (6-8" from plants) with 14hr photoperiod, humidity= >90%, air circulation is good.

    Hopefully someone will be able to offer some potential causes and solutions for this problem before my VFTs deteriorate. Thanks a lot for your time. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile.gif[/img]
    Secretary, New England Carnivorous Plant Society (NECPS) http://www.necps.org/
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  5. #13

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    could be aphids
    if i live for tommorow there will never be an eventfull day so go on break a leg

  6. #14
    chloroplast's Avatar
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    Hi tree terror,

    Thanks for the reply, but aphids are an unlikely cause as there is no sign of them on leaves or soil. There is also no sign of mites or other pests.

    When I cut off the portion of the leaf that was blackening, the remainder of the leaf remained green, leading me to believe it must be some sort of infection. If it were temperature or some other physical environmental factor, one would think that the rest of the leaf would have continued dying.

    A black spot appeared on another leaf today. Though only one plant, I nonetheless wish to save it. On a positive note, the rest of the CPs seem to be doing fine. Talk to you later,
    [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile.gif[/img]
    Secretary, New England Carnivorous Plant Society (NECPS) http://www.necps.org/
    Member, International Carnivorous Plant Society (ICPS)
    Member, North American Sarracenia Conservancy (NASC)
    Member, The Carnivorous Plant Society (CPS)

  7. #15

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    Ahh, the thrill of re-bumping and old topic. Since this one never really came to any conclusion, let's explore. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile.gif[/img]

    I have noticed that when receiving a new Dionaea specimen (normally of a bare root variety), that they seem fine for the first week, but as soon as the plant starts to really settle in and provide new growth and hope to the grower, that the traps start to blacken. After a short period of time, if this blackened area is left then the rest of the leaf itself continues to blacken. Sometimes it starts out with the teeth of the traps, and turns yellow behind the blackened areas, then finally blackens itself. An interesting note is that this normally effects the trap section first. I have a plant in a very warm and apparent to me now, slightly stagnant terrarium. The plant is now in active growth and putting up a few leaves at a time. The leaves are coming in fine, but once the beginnings of the trap start to fold away from the leaf blade itself, the trap is starting to blacken before even fully forming. The half developed leaves that had existed produced traps that were quite deformed, almost looking like an aphid or fungus gnat larvae attack.

    After quite some thought I have a general idea of what causes this, at least in my case.

    When you first receive the plant, it's normally in a slight case of shock from being uprooted. This combined with being repotted again during active growth can lead to further shock. If the media isn't sterilized there are micro-organisms, bacteria and fungus normally present to some degree. The plant in shock along with any of these three factors is just begging for one to infect the plant itself.

    Another cause that i've noticed that helps the fungal/mold to spread and infect the plant more is high temperatures along with high humidity. Both of these factors can cause mold/fungus to explode into growth. If the plant hasn't fully recovered from the previous shock, it most likely won't be able to fight off any given infection.

    Dionaea tend to die off and rot away from what i've experienced when sitting in terrariums with low air flow, high humidity and high temperatures. All these mixed together can aid in the infection in the plant, and cause the blackening of leaves. The dead leaf material then contributes to infection in the rhizome and causes a rot of some sort. All of the factors actually tend to bring further problems not far behind them due to the fact that the plant itself is weakening.

    As jimscott has said in numerous posts, along with quite a few others, Dionaea likes its air flow. They are more apt to grow especially well near Sarracenia outside in the free air, soaking up the natural light than with any terrarium grown plant. Notice how naturally not many cp's at all besides Sarracenia grow in area's around Dionaea? Probably a very good hint on the growth of the species.

    I'll follow up when I can as i'm actively researching this subject and trying a few things to rectify these situations. It seems to be the most common cause for the loss of Dionaea in my experience.
    Lithops care info: If you take care of it, it will die.

  8. #16
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    I have never grown VFTs (or any CPs) in a terrarium. Many others here are much better qualified to comment. I agree that many problems result because hot, humid, stagnant air or water are ideal culture conditions for lots of bacteria and fungi. An injured or stressed plant provides an opportunity for disease organisms to attack. Once a plant becomes established, it is better able to resist and survive. My VFTs grown outside do much better and have fewer problems than the VFTs in my greenhouse. I think exotic diseases and pests have a harder time becoming established outside than in an artificial environment. I suspect that the further you grow a plant from the "natural" environment that the species evolved, the more likely that the plant will succumb to disease.

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