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  • #21
OFF TOPIC (sorta): The ultraviolet light put out by fluorescent lamps is enough to color up our plants but isn't enough for lizards to convert calcium? Or are the $30 UV twisty CF bulbs I buy for my lizard just a total marketing scam or do they actually put out a "different kind" of UV than say the reef keepers compact fluorescent tubes?

If Mexipings grow at higher elevations, perhaps the reason people don't/can't grow them in terrariums is because it's normally too hot and stagnant for them in a fish tank? Just a wild guess...
 
  • #22
The reptile UV lamps give off more of the UVB medium waves - essential for vitamin D production. And probably a bit of marketing hype.
 
  • #23
I found a Pinguicula 'Pirouette' online for a very good price. Can someone please give me the basics of it? When I should I order it? When does it come out of succulent stage?

Ok, I have this plant. When should I let it go into it's succulent stage? Or does it go into a succulent stage at all (I know one of it's parents, P. agnata, does not turn into a succulent and is carnivorous year round).
 
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  • #24
i doubt its the UV off the lamps turning them pink.....if my summer sun dont turn them pink as im a couple thousand feet in in the air and my summer days are longer than Mexicos summer days its likely some other factor....
 
  • #25
Ok, I have this plant. When should I let it go into it's succulent stage? Or does it go into a succulent stage at all (I know one of it's parents, P. Agnata, does not turn into a succulent and is carnivorous year round).

I've been reducing the photoperiod with a timer to roughly coincide with reality. And now, that plant is not only not yet producing winter leaves, it is sending up a flower scape, as are:

P. gracilis x moctezumae

P. gigantea x moctezumae

P. gypsicola x kohres

P. moctezumae x kohres

P. 'Aphrodite'

But some plants are going into winter leaf mode.
 
  • #26
i doubt its the UV off the lamps turning them pink.....if my summer sun dont turn them pink as im a couple thousand feet in in the air and my summer days are longer than Mexicos summer days its likely some other factor....

Most of the Mexican Pinguicula are found at altitudes of 1200-3000 meters (3936-9842 feet) on northern slopes and north facing crevices/ravines or in the shade of pine, oak or cloud forests. They receive little direct sunlight and usually only in summer due to the facing of the crevices/ravines. Ed Read says he found a huge colony of one species on the walls of a north facing valley/ravine perpetually shrouded in mist from a nearby waterfall.

Only a few like P. gigantea grow in full sunlight.

Diffused light and shade favors the blue and ultraviolet spectrum. Peter D'Amato has commented that his plants color up magnificently in the portions of his greenhouse that have diffused lighting.

Mexico is also closer to the equator than you are - less atmospheric filter = stronger sunlight.

Easy enough to test. Buy some UV filter sleeves. Use tubes warm color (redder) tubes vs cooler (blue) colors with and without UV filters. And compare species like P. gigantea grows in full sun and P. colimensis (found at 500 m on sunny northern slopes).

So what's your hypothesis?
 
  • #27
do believe in the summer we would be closer to the sun than the equator....or atleast equal to it for the same reason there is 24 hours of daylight in Alaska during part of the summer....the earth is tilted....

still your argument doesnt make seance......could be the ratio of visible light versus UV that is the key, but UV itself doesnt get stronger after passing through the leaves of a tree, just less visible light gets through.....the UV wavelengths will be stronger out in the open than through shade cloth....UV just penetrates these better than visible light wave lengths...

would say its possible that since red pigments absorb light akin to black that plants in full sun dont produce any pink coloration due to the fact the plants themselves will be more prone to warm up faster and loose moisture at a faster rate....
 
  • #28
For details of variations in UV radiation reaching the earth at various altitudes and latitudes, here is a link to one source: U.S. EPA.

For example, the expected UV exposure in Oaxaca, Mexico is here. I compare that with my local UV, here at Tucson, AZ. And here is the level for Montana, USA, and the same for the mid of July. I consider my exposure here in Tucson to be high, and it is, but nothing like closer to the equator or at high elevations close to the equator. Anything North of our latitude is significantly lower in overall UV exposure.
 
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  • #30
Looks like I need to mix sand with the APS, and some rust!
 
  • #31
Howdy jimscott,
I've refreshed the formatting of that page, now.

Of course, there are many different ways to successfully cultivate Mexican Pinguicula. I do it the way I do, because it works for me.
 
  • #32
suite

I cultivate my mexican ping here in FRANCE in mineral alcalin clayed substrate , in shade or in morning sunlight , watering in summer all the 15 days or the month , outdoor ; in winter no watering to 12-15°c , indoor .

jeff
 
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  • #33
Oh! I need to try some of my decomposing granite!

Is this basic or acidic?
 
  • #34
I think basic- alcalin ( following the elements)

jeff
 
  • #35
I've tried various mineral based soil mixes for growing the few Mexican pings that I own and none of them have been particularly successful in my conditions. I now grow them in Levingtons multi-purpose compost, with some added perlite, and they grow like crazy.
 
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  • #36
Would someone post a link to the iron oxide powder? I googled it and found a scientific supplier, but I want to be sure I'm getting the right thing.
 
  • #37
Would someone post a link to the iron oxide powder? I googled it and found a scientific supplier, but I want to be sure I'm getting the right thing.
There's quite a few listings for it on eBay. Seems to be approx $2.50/lb, cheaper for larger quantities but you wouldn't need much if it's only for a few plants.

Iron oxide is used to help prevent chlorosis, but a good plant food will include chelated iron and other essential nutrients and elements.
 
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  • #38
Thanks Mobile.

I ended up getting another brand of APS, since I couldn't find the Schultz. This one is 100% diatomaceous earth, as opposed to the Schultz brand's sintered Fuller's earth. Hopefully this won't cause any problems. The diatomaceous earth contains trace amounts of iron oxide, so that's a plus. I potted up a P. cyclosecta as my guinea pig. Now I'll wait and see.
 
  • #39
Thanks Mobile.
This one is 100% diatomaceous earth, as opposed to the Schultz brand's sintered Fuller's earth.
This is used in some cat litter used by some bonsai growers, see here: http://www.bonsai4me.com/Basics/Basicscatlitter.htm. I'll be interested on how you get on with it. I thought it would be a suitable replacement for Seramis, which I have used in the past and still have P. gypsicola x moctezumae in a mix consisting of Seramis and a few other materials. But, unfortunately for me at least, diatomaceous earth didn't appear to be a like for like replacement and the ping didn't do well at all. Nowadays I just use multipurpose compost, preferably one with some John Innes in it and a bit of extra drainage. As with all plants though, I suspect that growing conditions will also influence medium type.
 
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  • #40
This is used in some cat litter used by some bonsai growers, see here: http://www.bonsai4me.com/Basics/Basicscatlitter.htm. I'll be interested on how you get on with it.

I tried a spare P.esseriana in pure 'tesco lightweight cat litter' and it crashed an burned in my conditions. I now just use it as a component in soils - and it seems to be fine like that. Also, I found it was pretty nasty-smelling on its own- it was enough to make me feel queasy. It might have worked better if I kept the pot in more water, but for me at least it didn't work well.
 
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