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Bugweed's 24-hr method

Wesley

God must have an interesting sense of humor
Has anyone tried Bugweed's 24-hr method on pings, especially mexican leaf cuttings? If so how'd they respond?
 
I'm not familiar with that method / topic. How does it work?
 
Gather around anyone who wants to listen!!!!
My "secrets" to getting large mature plants in less than 4 years. Growing sarracenia seed from some on this forum, think it is hard. Maybe if you are going through the dormancy way of growing, but here's a SUPRISE!!!!! Sarracenia are really easy to grow and maintain, year round, for 2 years. All you need is:
1. Seed heating mat with thermostat.
2. A container for holding water.
3. Seedpaks with many little pots!
4. Incandescant or flourescent light bulbs.

Whew! Glad I got that out! I fill the seedpak pots with straight Canadian Sphagnum Peat. I place them in the water tray, and keep it full, filling when it reaches the halfway mark. Water container sits on top of the Seedling Heating Mat. Mine is set @ 80 degrees. I have already striated the seed. Simply lay the seed on the soil surface. DO NOT BURY THE SEED!!!

When the seedlings sprout, just leave the lights on 24/7. This has no affect on the seedlings except to help them grow. Sundews cannot live in the 24/7 lighting, so don't try it and lose your plants!!! However, sarracenia seedlings go absolutely nuts, and continue to grow. I keep them in this situation for 2 full years, no breaks! The lights I use are Reveal lightbulbs, daylights, 100 watts. They never sleep! The plantlets can be as tall as 12" by th end of the 2nd year, 16" to 24 " by age three. I have one now belonging to Tony Paroubek that is ready to be shipped this spring. It is only 2 years old, the rhizome HUGE, and budding! Not even 3 years old yet, and budding! By the third year, seedlings HAVE to have a dormancy, or they may die. It is easy, and rewarding, and takes the drudgery out of winter. And you can do this all you want, all you need is seed. So do not discount growing seed, just learn the easy way, and lengthen your growing season to all year long!!!!

What I'm trying to figure out is if the use of the word, 'striated' is supposed to mean cold stratification, prior to perpetual light and 80 F heat.
 
That's what I took him to mean when I read it Jim. ???
 
What I'm trying to figure out is if the use of the word, 'striated' is supposed to mean cold stratification, prior to perpetual light and 80 F heat.

Yes, 'striated' is Bugweedese for cold stratification. He has used the word 'striated' interchangeably with 'stratified' in the past.
 
LOL, oh and minus the stratification and heat pads. Basically grow them like the adults w/ 24/7 lighting. That's also what I took it to mean.
 
As you know from Biology class, as in striated muscles, that's an entirely different word and denotation! :0o: Anyhoo, all verbiage aside, if it works, then I'd try that approach.
 
Well I already have one experiment going with a type of foam padding. If the plants survive a month like that, I'll add the 24/7 method to them.... Poor guinea pings (Pun anyone?)
 
  • #10
Well striated can mean striped or lined and strata can be layers which when viewed in cross-section appears striped so I guess there's a bit of a connection ???
 
  • #11
I'm thinking he may have done a Norm Crosby or Archie Bunker with the words. It's like saying acclimitized instead of acclimated. With tropical fish, like a Botia striata, it refers to a layered appearance.
 
  • #12
What the heck happened to this thread???

Curious, how this thread with the first two posts concerning Pinguicula and the remainder concerning, ??What?? I can't really tell. Got to stay here in the Butterwort section so long.
 
  • #13
I don't think the 24/7 method is good for Pinguicula. My Sarracenia seedlings undergoing the Bugweed method got badly infested with fungus gnats so I enlisted my Drosera and Mexican Pinguicula as controls.

My Pinguicula cyclosecta died. One day it was fine, the next day the leaves were misshapen. I moved it back to the windowsill where it had been growing happily for several months. The next day I looked at it closely and the "beak" was brown. The next day I decided to pull a few leaves in the hopes of saving something. As I pulled on a leaf the whole plant toppled over - no root. I managed to pull four leaves but it looks like they have all shriveled away to film.

I removed my P. debbertiana from the 24/7 a few days prior to the cyclosecta going downhill because it just wasn't catching any gnats.

They had been under the lights for maybe two or three weeks tops.
 
  • #14
Well, we seem to have a clear consensus on that one. I don't believe I'll risk it, at least not without insurance. Thanks NAN.
 
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