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Transplantation

Hello!

For some inexplicable reason, my P. moranensis decided to be a rebel and thrives in my terrarium. I haven't had him for long (3 months) and he's already twice the width of hiw pot, I guess that means I should give him a new, bigger home right?

Well, if that's the case, what precautions must be made to ensure a successful transplantation?
 
Here's what it looks like, it's pot is the same size as the heli's.
The littles debris on the leaves are bits of food I sprinkled on him just the day before.

moranensis.jpg


Thanks.
 
Hi cath,

I would remove the whole "plug", soils & all, and place it in the new setting that is prepared with a hole for it that accommodates the plug. Also, try as best you can to duplicate the environmental conditions it is currently under - temp, humidity, lighting, etc.. - so as to reduce the potential for shock as much as possible.

It's looking real good!
smile.gif
 
I've always liked the effect of having a small pot and a plant overgrowing it but that's just my oppinion. But I would just follow what jimscott did and they should be fine.
 
yeah, pings do not need large pots becuase their roots sytems are sooo small!
 
im going with sunpitcher on this one, Pings have small roots system, and your probably doesnt need replanting.
just let it keep thriving until it stops growing bigger, or something.
Hellz
 
I also agree with Sunpitcher, and some Pings also shrink when they go over to winter rosett.

regards Bjørn
 
  • #10
I'd give it enough light so the leaves turn pink. Large green leaves on a plant that gets pink in strong light can indicate a desperate attempt to gather more light by producing larger, softer leaves which are usually more prone to insect attack or infection.
 
  • #11
*goes back to have a look* .... you think it's lacking light? But wouldn't that slow down growth a lot?
 
  • #12
<span style='color:brown'>Plant + Light = Growth and Life or Plant - Light = Death, no Growth</span>

Most pathogenic or adventitious fungi/bacteria are inhibited by exposure to UV light.

Even carnivorous plants use light to create carbohydrate (sugar), this provides the energy they need to grow -versus- less or no light and they will grow less or not at all.

There is a principle of horticulture called, "limiting factors". Plants need; light, water, mineral nutrients, carbon dioxide and oxygen (delivered by moving air), correct temperature range: day/night, physical support. These must all be supplied in the proper balance for optimum growth and health. If any factors change, others would need to be changed accordingly, not necessarily for optimum growth, but for optimum health. With plants - bigger is not always better.
 
  • #13
So, since my ping is growing well and fast, I should assume he's healthy? Since plant - light = no growth.
 
  • #14
From what I have observed about CP's, is that green is good, but pink on Mexican pings and red on Droseras is the best. Green means good light. Red means great light.
 
  • #15
As jimscott has said, and I paraphrase: if a plant's genotype (genetics) would provide for it to be pink then if we grow it under optimum conditions it will display its pink phenotype (genetics combined with environment). Big, soft, and green can indicate that its genotype is geared to be big, soft, and green, or it could mean that it isn't getting enough PAR or other environmental factors to display its optimum phenotype. It is quite suitable, even sometimes desirable, and often unavoidable to grow plants, even CP under less than optimum conditions. I know, I've done it regularly and continue to do so. I would prefer to always grow everything in 100% ideal conditions, but reality often interferes.
 
  • #16
[b said:
Quote[/b] (PinguiculaMan @ Jan. 25 2005,12:53)]<span style='color:brown'>Plant + Light = Growth and Life   or   Plant - Light = Death, no Growth</span>

Most pathogenic or adventitious fungi/bacteria are inhibited by exposure to UV light.

Even carnivorous plants use light to create carbohydrate (sugar), this provides the energy they need to grow -versus- less or no light and they will grow less or not at all.

There is a principle of horticulture called, "limiting factors". Plants need; light, water, mineral nutrients, carbon dioxide and oxygen (delivered by moving air), correct temperature range: day/night, physical support. These must all be supplied in the proper balance for optimum growth and health. If any factors change, others would need to be changed accordingly, not necessarily for optimum growth, but for optimum health. With plants - bigger is not always better.
This a brilliant formula, Joseph! Have you thought about publishing it?
smile_n_32.gif

The only person I have heard strongly suggest wide pots(and the shallow roots of pings have nothing to do with the width, it would be the depth, right?) is Phil Faulasi, especially with his P. gigantea. He thinks the extra humidity from growing them directly in a tray gives his that huge size. I hope I am remembering this right.
Also, did the leaves in this photo look dry, or was that just me?

Cheers,

Joe
 
  • #17
Maybe, I still have a hard time telling. But yes, the winter is terribly dry; I'm being generous when I say it's about 20% humidity in my house, it isn't as bad in the terrarium but quite far from ideal still. Strangely, my neps are doing great, except the ventricosas, which I believe are sick or something of the sort.

Maybe I should move it in my "grow rack" in the basement? It's 60% at worst during the day in there...
 
  • #18
I'd say so... and your Drosera adelae looks a little dry and wrinkly too. Either move them into the basement or cover your terrarium closer to completely than it probably is now.

EDIT: Just looked again... that is an Drosera adelae, right? And what kind of "food" are you sprinkling on the Ping? o_O Have they now developed actual Ping food? Nobody ever tells me anything.
 
  • #19
Can we back up a tad and discuss pink on Mexican pings please.
 
  • #20
Sure, go ahead.
 
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