Lol... I'd love to hear your interpretation of my abstract photography lol.
Here it is a month and three days ago. Keep in mind that the photos I originally posted were after a big trim and I cut back all the plants by about 50%. Carbon dioxide really makes things grow when the light and nutrients are unlimited.
Andrew, if you'd like to trade plants let me know and maybe we can work something out.
My plans for this tank is to focus on plants. It's a plant tank, not a fish tank. I have five otocinclus catfish for algae control (plus they are cute!) and I want to get some Cherry and Crystal Red Shrimp. I have Malaysian Trumpet snails coming and I'd like to get some horned nerites as well.
I originally didn't have a black background... and I prefer it without one, but the plants in the back started to grow facing the wall.
Amphirion, Yeah I definitely need a new hardscape. I didn't really worry about sloping the substrate because once I go back to college, I expect the substrate to "erode" any slopes. Then I have to go back home on the holidays, then move it back.... you get the idea. I didn't expect the slopes to stay in place so I didn't worry about it. I really need new rocks but can't find any that are just right. I don't understand what you mean when you say to move the tallest plants to the back of the tank. Aren't they already in the back?
My specs are:
Lighting: ADA Solar I 150 watt HQI
Filtration: Eheim Classic 2215 (I'd like to upgrade to a 2217.... what I have is adequate but I'd like more flow)
CO2: 1.5 bubbles per second injected via an inline diffuser into the intake of the canister, so I am using my canister as a co2 reactor.
Substrate: 500 grams of Tourmaline, about 20 ounces of laterite, 100 ml's of Seachem Matrix carbon were laid down first. Then 5-6 liters of regular Aquasoil Amazonia, then 6 liters of Aquasoil Amazonia powder
Fertilization: I use the Estimative Index Method, so I dose Macros three days per week and Micros three days per week. I alternate dosing macros and micros. I also dose extra iron and magnesium, and potassium.
Heating: None yet... I havn't needed it until recently. I just ordered a Hydor inline heater that I can hook up to the intake or outflow of my canister.
PH:5
KH:1-2 degrees
GH:4
Nitrate: I like to keep it around 10 ppm to bring out the reds. I dose half of what the Estimative Index regimen calls for.
Phosphate: about 3 ppm. It goes up to as high as 5 ppm when I dose Kh2PO4.
CO2: 30 ppm is considered ideal, however I like to keep it above 30 ppm. I know it is above 30 ppm when my drop checker is lime green. When it is just plain grass colored green, it's only 30 ppm. When the drop checker is yellow, it's too high. I like to keep it on the high side of safe.... I keep the co2 as high as the fish can stand it without showing stress.
I have to keep plenty of surface ripples so I have room for error when it comes to co2. It can be tricky balancing co2 with oxygen. One problem I have is my needle valve isn't the best in the world and it "floats". For example, if I set it to 1.5 bubbles per second, in a day or two it could be 1.8 bubbles per second. I need to get a new needle valve of higher quality.