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Show off your 50mm vintage lens pics

  • #21
50mm Minolta MD Macro on the Nikon 3200. Shooting wide open at 1/60. Lens was out about the same time I was in HS so guessing it might be a vintage lens..... :p











 
  • #22
Nice pics Mach :)

Katie, my knowledge of what can and cant be used is limited to Canon
Crissy and Warren are the true guru's.... What little I know, I learned from them.

What model Camera do you have?
(I assume your not talking about the K1000)
 
  • #23
Hey Katie. I know you asked Av, but I will try to answer your question. The short answer is, it depends. What camera would you want to mount the lenses to?

Excellent pictures everyone! Keep them coming! :D
 
  • #24
Here we go. Pentax K1000, at least as old as I am, it was bought used when I was born.
:angel:

Mom only had the short lens and the smaller zoom. I bought the rest. I still want a macro for it. (Hint hint: it takes Pentax K mount! :D)

Why not buy a Pentax DSLR? All your old lenses are compatible with all the Pentax DSLRs. Your lenses all appear to be the "A" versions with the small lock button on the aperture ring to put them in "auto" mode. This means that you can use matrix metering and all the auto modes as well as manual metering. Just no autofocus. However the shake reduction is in the camera body so you get image stabilization with your manual focus lenses. Older lenses (including screwmount lenses) without the "A" lock require stop-down metering but can also benefit from shake reduction. Screwmount lenses require an adapter but Pentax has made one since the bayonet mount was introduced in the 1970s. These can be used on your K-1000 also.

As far as macro lenses as long at is has an aperture ring and a k-mount it can be used on either your K-1000 or a DSLR. Again the only limitation is that stop-down metering must be used in the DSLR if there is no "A" lock on the lens.

Used bodies in excellent condition for cheap are easily found on KEH or the Pentax Forum Marketplace.
 
  • #25
These were taken on a Pentax K-10D DSLR using a glassless Minolta MD to K mount adapter. Without an optical element the lenses have no focus at infinity and can only be used as close-up or macro lenses. All were shot in manual metering mode. Aperture not recorded.

Minolta MC-Rokkor PF 58mm f/1.4 (produced between 1966-1969)
IMGP2753.jpg

IMGP2763.jpg


Minolta MD Macro 50mm f/3.5 with 1:1 adapter (in production beginning 1981 until whenever Minolta stopped producing manual focus lenses)
IMGP2793.jpg


Here is the 58mm mounted on a Pentax K-1000 (film) body:
IMGP2703.jpg



Drosera admirabilis flower. This was taken on my Pentax DSLR with a SMC Pentax-A f/1.4 50mm lens. Produced between 1983-1987. Shot in an improvised whitebox with lighting from outdoors through a window. Image was cropped as the minimum focus on the lens is 0.45m.
IMGP4181copy_zps08dadc6c.jpg
 
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  • #26
I like the macro and the pentax A shot, both classic :)

Yashica ML 50mm f/1.4
Getting sort of expensive on ebay, typically over 100
yaz1_4f.JPG

No post processing other than crop and resize
Different rose species than the f/1.7 pics
 
  • #27
NaN, I wish I could. Right now, I can't even afford to pay attention. A DSLR has been way out of budget, even used, for along time. I must use what I have. It was just an idle question, anyways.

Yes, I wanted to know of any of these lenses seemingly everyone is buying would fit, or can be adapted.
 
  • #28
I forgot I had this lens: Yashica 50mm f2. I think I got this one at a pawn shop for around $10.00.







 
  • #29
I don't think ive ever seen any pics with you using it before.... nice.
But ummm, when you going to break out the big gun... that 1.4

you know you want to :)
 
  • #30
How about some vintage photos as well? I took these in the early 70s. Developed the film, and did the prints myself. Taken with my brother's Minolta SRT-101 with 58mm MC Rokkor-PF f/1.4 lens. I still have the negatives but I scanned the prints - too much work to set up the film scanner. Judging from the contrast and grain I must have been shooting Kodak Tri-X (ASA/ISO 400) black & white film. Shooting around noon didn't help the contrast any. Subjects are 1/25th model kits by Tamiya built by myself. Ah, the follies of youth!

scan0003copy_zpsee773e07.jpg


scan0001copy_zps729568e5.jpg
 
  • #31
Crissy, those shots are amazing!
 
  • #32
Awesome images Warren, love the tiger... at first glance it looks full scale
If you were like me, you eventually blew your models up.... I did a lot of experimenting with whatever stuff I could find that went boom LOL
Loved calcium carbide, and would cut off match heads and pack them tightly into stuff for preteen pyrotechnics LOL

I got out my 1971 vintage S-M-C Takumar 50mm f/1.4 for a quickie
supertak.jpg


It's amazing the "personality" each lens can have...
 
  • #33
Late to the party, does using an EX-tube count? SMC Pentax-M 50mm 1.4 with a 35mm EX-tube.
blswtjgp-6.jpg


blswtjgp-2-2.jpg
 
  • #34
ohhhhh awesome pics judy, love the second one :)

lets see some moar!
 
  • #35
Super-Multi-Coated Takumar Macro 50mm f/4 on a vintage Pentax bellows

Fruit fly and Drosera aliciae
imgp5625_scale_zps67da5797.jpg

IMGP5638copy_zpsfbd80b41.jpg

IMGP5644copy_zps5659145b.jpg
 
  • #36
Very nice shots. Sharp too! Do you shoot free handed?
I need to get a tripod
 
  • #37
A sturdy tripod is essential for close-up work. So is using the mirror lockup mode and a remote release or tethering. I find it difficult enough keeping the camera steady at 1x magnification. Flash can help but sometimes is not the best lighting solution. Any higher magnification hand held shooting is much more difficult or next to impossible. Older macro lenses were slower too, with the widest aperture in the f/4 range. Since the depth-of-field is so narrow you are usually shoot stopped down to at least f/11.

The shots were done on a tripod with the bellows fully extended (175mm or so) at f/22. I tried shooting with light from an articulated desk lamp but the exposures were on the order of 5 seconds. I have an older camera and high ISO performance is not the good so I try not to go over ISO 400-640. Since the fly was moving I switched over to hand held flash. I need to get an articulated arm and bracket for the flash.

Here's a couple of the 5 second exposure shots. You should be able to see the motion blur on the fly. BTW you can see some of the cell structure on the leaves.
IMGP5616_zpsbcb1228b.jpg

IMGP5615_zps21a41b9d.jpg


Here's a very short video I made from some of the stills:
 
  • #38
Beautifully done warren, I gotz to get me a bellows one day.... :)
 
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