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How do I know how much pressure comes out of my water tap? R/O Pre-Shopping Questions

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I wanna buy a new R/O unit (the kind you connect to the faucet head) and most of them say you must have water coming out with at least 45 psi in order for it to operate correctly. Is there an easy way to find out how much pressure I have coming from my kitchen sink? I used to have an R/O system but I don't recall it mentioning water pressure, and I have a new faucet since when I had it, would a new faucet change the pressure?

Additionally, almost each of them is now an RO/DI system with one, two or three DI resin cartridges. Will this style of SW/reef water maker create water too pure for plants? They all claim to create water with 0 TDS.

Hmm, I just unscrewed the aerator and the threads on my tap are on the inside and not the outside like the old faucet. Is there a connector that I can put on there that will make outer threads or will I have to get a new faucet first?
 
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Call your city or town water company and ask.
 
pressures can vary from house to house and even room to room.

the only accurate way is via pressure gauge tee'd into the faucet supply or even better using the RO's faucet adapter.
it needs to be a dynamic pressure reading too, not just static

(pressure measured when RO flow is maximum)

bladder tank equipped systems are more supply pressure critical. Since your system does not use a bladder tank, the effects of low pressure will be reduced rejection ratio and increased brine ratio


hth's
Av
 
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You can use these on the 1/4" lines of an ro system: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/air-filled-pressure-gauge-1-100-psi.html I keep one of these on a faucet splitter at the greenhouse to monitor pressure out there, could get this locally if you want to check pressure before buying the system. At least here we typically have a faucet outside near the kitchen, the pressure should be close there to what's in the kitchen. https://www.lowes.com/pd/WaterMaster-200-lb-Pressure-Gauge/1126113
RO systems will work at lower pressures BUT the membrane is not as efficient and you'll use more water, so it's kinda important.

DI won't hurt CPS, but they cost a lot to maintain... Really not worth it for CPs. Typically it's an extra canister or two after the RO system, you could easily sell these stages and get back some money if you can't find a system without them.

Yep, all types of adapters are out there. This one for example goes from faucet to garden hose which then can use a faucet to 1/4" push lock for the RO system: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Danco-Chrome-Standard-Adapter/3647058

Andrew
 
Thanks guys.

With the aerator off it seems my water pressure is much higher though it looks like my faucet is a little drippy without it so I might have to replace the faucet first. The installation manual for the faucet under the sink is dated 2011 by the installer. But will be nice not to have to haul 5 gallon water jugs up the dozen stairs to my apt.

Yeah my old R/O didn't have the DI tubes on it and the plants did great, so it's OK to disconnect the DI tubes that sit ontop of the standard quick connect 3-4 stage R/O unit and just use the clean water tube after the R/O stage?

That attachment looks like what I'll need - will see if they carry that part at the one Lowes in MN - I didn't see one at the Home Depot across the road but maybe it's the wrong time of year to be looking for garden hose stuff in MN.

I remember I also used to have a connector that allowed water to come out of the faucet for doing dishes but if I flipped a switch it would divert the water to the R/O unit - I don't recall what that part was called, does anyone have an idea on that one?

Edit I think this is what it was: https://www.marinedepot.com/Standar...umbing-Captive_Purity-RO1317-FIRORARP-vi.html
 
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Yes, the water that goes into the DI stages is RO water, so remove the DI stage(s) and you're good to go. Which unit are you looking at?

Or you could install it under the sink so you don't have to have it in the way in the faucet area. This installs inline and is easily removed. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-lok-ez-faucet-adapter-kit.html
 
Thanks Andrew, do you have one of those under sink attachments that you linked to? If yes, can you take a picture of how it is connected?

I don't wanna have to cut into my water line like the old under sink way of connecting the R/O but it would be nice to have it out of the way.
 
DI units will break the bank unless you have a certified 99% rejection ratio membrane running at the proper pressures and start off with decent water

Even a RO set up with a 98% rejection ratio allows twice the junk by compared to a 99%... and home units rarely perform at those levels.
 
I actually don't have that one. The one I use for the ice maker is just a shutoff valve with a 1/4" feed off of it.
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This is probably like the one you had before on the faucet with the switch https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/chrome-faucet-diverter-valve.html

I think this is the same as the one I showed you above, but without the swiveling output... Looks like you dissconnect your faucet line, screw this one and then your faucet line back on. And it gives you the 1/4" to put your RO system in. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-lok-ez-faucet-adapter.html

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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