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I need photos of growth points

I need decent quality photos that can be used to show kids growth points so that they know exactly where to divide a plant. If anyone can share these (would be even better if circles or arrows were used pointing to the growth points) with me, I would be greatly appreciative. Simple tips on how to divide plants would be appreciated also.

I would need permission to print off the photos and distribute them so please don't post a photo if you would feel uncomfortable having it distributed or copied or e-mailed or enlarged to be used on a tri-fold poster board.

They have Sarracenia, Drosera, VFT, and a few Utricularia.
 
growth point on a Utric?..............hmmmmm..............every part but the flower and that may be up for debate and needs experimentation
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Since everyone is out there dividing plants to send out for the NASC auction, would anyone who has a camera please take a moment to send me photos please.  I really do need a few good photos illustrating growth points for St. Mary's School.
 
Thank you Kirk.

Just want to post this again,
[b said:
Quote[/b] ]I would need permission to print off the photos and distribute them so please don't post a photo if you would feel uncomfortable having it distributed or copied or e-mailed or enlarged to be used on a tri-fold poster board.
The kids will be using any photos for projects in the classroom and the teacher will be creating a 3 ring binder to be able to save any photos to use as a future reference tool.
 
Thank you very much. That's a big help. I don't have any plants that are large enough to be able to photograph growth points yet and I really need the close up photos.

Now, you can take these growth points and kids could put them in a blender and after they are pulverized, the kids could spread the mixture out on top of sphagnum and the blender mix of growth points would grow a lot of new Sarracenia right?  The kids would just have to be careful to get the entire growth point in the blender correct?

Would the blender method of propagation work on Drosera and Dionaea too?
 
blender method? this is the first i hear about it, could someone ellaborate?
 
  • #10
blender?! are you thinking of the way they propagate moss? if so... no! lol.
 
  • #11
[b said:
Quote[/b] (LauraZ5 @ June 08 2005,6:37)]Thank you very much. That's a big help. I don't have any plants that are large enough to be able to photograph growth points yet and I really need the close up photos.

Now, you can take these growth points and kids could put them in a blender and after they are pulverized, the kids could spread the mixture out on top of sphagnum and the blender mix of growth points would grow a lot of new Sarracenia right?  The kids would just have to be careful to get the entire growth point in the blender correct?

Would the blender method of propagation work on Drosera and Dionaea too?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for the propagation tip!  I just put all of my sarrs, one by one, in a blender.  It took some doing, and I had to clean it thoroughly after each plant, but man are we gonna have lots of plants!

Now, I'm no fool, so I did save one growing point on each plant.  Thanks for offering that suggestion when I PMd you.  I knew that there was a leaf method of propagation, so this makes sense to me.  It seems like a crude method of tissue culture.
Joe

P.S. I am NOT suggesting anyone else try this! It is experimental at this time. Do NOT sacrifice your own plants.
 
  • #12
Oh my lord NO do not put your plants blender!! To start new plants you just cut the growth points in half or quarters depending on the size and plant them.
 
  • #14
here is a link on propagation of sars
link

Division
Division of plants is the easiest and most successful method of your increasing stock. This is best achieved during the Spring when new growth is just beginning to appear.

A well established Sarracenia will be seen to have several plants arising from the original rhizome, removing the plant from the pot will reveal most of these will have their own root systems. These individual plants should be removed from the parent plant using a sharp knife (preferably a scalpel), making sure to keep as many roots as possible with the new plant. These should then be repotted in in the usual compost.

Any plant removed without an efficient rooting system will take considerably longer to establish (if at all) than a comparable one with a good root system. Usually it is better to leave the plant attached to the rhizome for a further year, at least this way success is almost certainly guaranteed when the plant is removed.

Rhizome Cuttings
An alternative to dividing the plant ensuring each individual plant has its own root system is to simply divide the rhizome into segments. Here again however ensure each segment has its own root system. The cuts should be made with a very sharp knife, any dead or diseased sections of the rhizome should be removed and discarded at this time, the healthy sections being potted up into the standard Sarracenia compost.

As with dividing the plants this is best done when growth is just starting to appear in the Spring, the rhizome sections should just be laid within the compost and the roots firmly anchored. The compost should not be allowed to dry out, and ensure the plant has adequate light and ventilation to prevent any disease from taking hold where the rhizome has been cut.

New buds may take some time to appear, so be patient if this method is used to increase your stock.
 
  • #15
PLEASE, no one try this. Attempting this stunt with your plants would be like trying to imitate the MTV show with the stupid guys trying really stupid things. I'll let you all know how this turns out.
 
  • #16
Hehe, while the blender technique may be sound based on the fact that plant cells exhibit totipotency (-most- every cell has the potential to form a new plant) I don't think this would work out so hot. For starters, the blender would probably do excessive damage to the cells, and as a broken up cell does us no good this wouldn't be the most effective means. Furthermore, I'd say you'd probably want bigger chunks anyway. Lastly, this process would be most viable if you're going the T/C route, if you just lay the chunks down on the soil, I'm not quite sure what your results will be, but the bigger the pieces the higher the sucess I imagine. All in all, this would be most effective if used along with T/C instead of simply laying doing the chunks. For use without T/C I'd say just keep the divisions of the growth point conservative.

---> I realize it may be a bit late since this thread originated quite a while ago, but I'll take some pics if needed... Heck, I'll probably do it just to avoid studying for Spanish finals.
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  • #17
[b said:
Quote[/b] (Est @ June 08 2005,11:37)]Hehe, while the blender technique may be sound based on the fact that plant cells exhibit totipotency (-most- every cell has the potential to form a new plant) I don't think this would work out so hot.  For starters, the blender would probably do excessive damage to the cells, and as a broken up cell does us no good this wouldn't be the most effective means.  Furthermore, I'd say you'd probably want bigger chunks anyway.  Lastly, this process would be most viable if you're going the T/C route, if you just lay the chunks down on the soil, I'm not quite sure what your results will be, but the bigger the pieces the higher the sucess I imagine.  All in all, this would be most effective if used along with T/C instead of simply laying doing the chunks.  For use without T/C I'd say just keep the divisions of the growth point conservative.

---> I realize it may be a bit late since this thread originated quite a while ago, but I'll take some pics if needed...  Heck, I'll probably do it just to avoid studying for Spanish finals.
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Hi Est,
Thanks for the tips. I'll just set the blender to coarse pulse in the future.
JB
 
  • #18
I actually used a food processor instead of the recommended blender. Mine came with an assortment of accessories to make different types of cuts.  I used the low speed with the steel blade to make larger cuts but I suppose we could all experiment. I guess this was a take off technique from something posted in the ICPS on leaf tears from S. purpurea.
 
  • #19
[b said:
Quote[/b] (LauraZ5 @ June 08 2005,11:55)]II used the low speed with the steel blade to make larger cuts but I suppose we could all experiment. I guess this was a take off technique from something posted in the ICPS on leaf tears from S. purpurea.
Laura, I don't think we should ALL experiment.  Only those of us with a little knowledge (a dangerous thing, eh?), and the right food processing equipment.  Wolfgang Puck, I'm not, but I hope to achieve some notoriety for pioneering this method!
 
  • #20
Food processor? Well yeah thatll work just fine unlike the blender where I was thinkin youd be making some disgusting slurpee or something. what works best when you use that method though is to take all of the peices you chopped up and soak them in a mixture of superthrive and water for a day. After that put them in a bag and toss in about a quarter cup of rooting powder and a bit of the superthrive mixture (not too much or the powder wont stick) and shake it up itll look a bit like S. cole slaw. then go outside and toss it where you want it to grow then put down a fine layer of sphagnum peat over it all so it doesnt dry out in the sun. normally though its best to do after the first frost though Im hoping its not too late into the growing season.
 
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