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The Europeans make really nice terrariums.
I care nothing for aesthetics.

My gods are Frugality, Miserness, and Spendthrift.

My number one concern is cost, which is why I embarked on attempting to build a cheap yet sufficiently large chamber. My old one was way too small and crappy. It was basically disintegrating.

Here's my parts list:
Snap Clamps: 9 x $1.19 + $6.55 (shipping) = $21.07
3-way elbow fittings: 8 x $2.83 + $8.67 (shipping) = $31.31
1.5" x 10' PVC pipe: 8 x $4.29 = $34.32
Duct tape: free (had it laying around) = $0
Plastic sheeting: ~$8 for a small 4 mil roll = $8
(I covered most of it in a large roll of 6 mil sheeting I had laying around since I paint houses. The 4 mil was just to fill the little gaps I had.)
Light fixtures: ~$8 x 2 (3/5 I already had) = $16
Bulbs: ~$7 x 2 = $14
(The 3 fixtures I had already had bulbs)
Small fan: free (already had it) = $0
Humidifier: $30 x 1 = $30
Shelving: $50 x 1 = $50
(originally I planned on making one out of these: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=50193-362-1361&lpage=none and cinder blocks. Doing that, you can make a 6' x 1' shelf 3 tiers high for about $30. This wasn't stable enough for me, since I am building this on carpet. Put 2 cinder blocks on the ends, then 1 in the middle, and stack the wire racks. I decided to buy a cheap shelf instead).
Twine: free = $0
Total: = $204.70


For a grow area that's 7' h x 3' w x 7' long...that ain't bad.
1.5" pipe is the way to go. Though smaller diameter pipes and fittings would save money, I do not recommended them for something of this size. The structure is very sturdy as well. I punched it to test it out, and it barely and briefly shook. Passed my test.

I'm going to add a few more lights and maybe a heater soon, but this is how everything is ATM.

I had some pics of the very beginning, as I was planning on doing an entire build, but they kind of looked bad. Plus, it's a box made of PVC and fittings. If you can't figure out how to replicate this from the photos, we're all in lots of trouble.

Outside:
DSCN0095.jpg

As I said, the dimensions are: 7' h x 3' d x 7' w


I'm using this 6' h x 2' d x 3' w shelving unit I got for a paltry $50 at Home Depot. If you're looking for shelving, I highly recommend this. It's made of high impact resin and can hold 1000lbs (evenly distributed weight, i.e. 200lbs per shelf):
DSCN0096.jpg



My new tank+stand that I put in there. I'm too lazy to cut the mylar (really an emergency blanket lol), so I just drape it over:
DSCN0099.jpg

There's 2 kinds of location data ampullaria seeds, and raff seeds with location data in there.


As you may or may not know via this thread (http://www.terraforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111265) my collection is in shambles. Hopefully the higher humidity and the soaking I gave everything will make all perk up and at least not die, but who knows. Anyway, here's about the only 2 things looking decent ATM:

chaniana x veitchii:
DSCN0098.jpg



splendiana x rokko:
DSCN0097.jpg




I've still got some kinks to work out, like the fact that the light in the tank doesn't come on when the timer clicks on, even though the other 4 lights connected to the same exact timer do. However, it does work when I click it off, then on manually. I'll try to clean it with coke and/or CLR to get some of the corrosion off, and if it still doesn't work, I may have to break down and buy a new light fixture deal, though I'd realllllly rather not.

Btw, my old enclosure:
DCP_1733.jpg

Is now inside my new one, without the crap plastic on top of it. It is currently empty, but tomorrow I'll probably go and get 2 new fixtures to hang on it, since I am expecting a new shipment next week, and have 0 room already. I ran out of space so fast because I'm trying to let the new plants not touch each other so they'll get more air movement etc. In my old setup, I had pots literally inside/on top of other pots, which didn't do so hot.
 
Very very nice Ron. I REALLY would love to make something like that. Sounds very cost efficient. Interesting how you place the fluorescent lighting vertically rather than horizontally. Does this provide enough light for the plants in between pots? It seems like it does, due to the success you've had, but I was wondering if you have any 'trouble' spots.

Great pics btw... should be easy enough to replicate from the info. provided. Thx for the share :)

P.S. Love that Chaniana x Veitchii... Mine is just forming a pitcher after recovering from poor humidity (from the grower) and I can't wait. I'm thinking about ordering another 1 or two for outside :).
 
Great job PK, whats your climate like inside the new chamber?
 
Where are the pics?!
 
My gods are Frugality, Miserness, and Spendthrift.

Heh. As my father once said to me: "Welcome to middle class, son." I totally agree with you about aesthetics being unnecessary; but, if I were to ever build something like that I believe my wife would have a different story to tell.

Nice work.

Great job PK, whats your climate like inside the new chamber?

I was wondering this, too.

xvart.
 
Please, no one take offence to this remark, I have never understood growing plants in a grow chamber. There is no way to enjoy your plants except the small amount of time the chamber is open and being serviced. Why not just grow plants that can grow with your environment? Ex. I grow N. chaniana x veitchii as a house plant with low humidity and it grows and pitchers great, plus I get to enjoy it while i'm sitting and watching t.v..
 
Very nice PK,

I myself, DO care for aesthetics when it comes to an indoor grow-rack (or chamber).

I don't like it when my stuff gets messy, but that's just me...

That said, how are you going to service your plants with the vertical lights in the way? Did you construct them as removable? I notice that you do save some vertical space for plants by mounting lights on their ends but isn't it more cumbersome to service the inhabitants of your new chamber?
 
DJ,
can you not see the pics? Anyone else having that problem? They show fine for me.

Jayson/xvart,
Umm....lowlandish? I can't find my thermometer/hygrometer, so that's my guess! It's really humid, and kind of warm lol.

jack,
Nothing can survive in my environment...no joke. Humidity in Lubbock is never higher than 20% unless it just rained. Also, for about 6 months, temps are above 90, and for the other 6, they're below 40. Even my lowlanders at the windowsill shrivel in the winter, and my windowsill highlanders shrink in the summer. Trust me, if I didn't absolutely need a chamber, I wouldn't have one.

fryster,
Yes, I can remove the lights (they're hanging on hooks). Also, there are some generous gaps in between the lights, and as you noticed, no lights on the side (which may change). I have one of those huge sprayers with the long shaft (hehehe), so watering any of them is really easy, but the lights are built to be able to come off in the event that I need to remove something
 
Jayson/xvart,
Umm....lowlandish? I can't find my thermometer/hygrometer, so that's my guess! It's really humid, and kind of warm lol.

I figured that was the case; but, I didn't know with your new setup if you were going to try and do some temperature drops.

xvart.
 
  • #10
Neg. All the best plants are lowlands anyway :D
Well...the higher humidity does drop the temps a little, which I am not happy about. I may get a heater, but I'm not too sure. If they start looking worse than they already do, or start shriveling or something, I'll go buy a heater.
 
  • #11
BTW, the pics work now. I don't know if you changed anything, but I can see them now.

And nice job at that. I am partial to windowsills myself, but if I had such a poor environment, I would probably do the same thing.
 
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  • #12
Your tank looks great. You could grow some of the picky neps inthere. :) good setup mate. :)
 
  • #13
Thanks vraev. Speaking of the tank, I'm having some problems w/ the light. Maybe someone can help?

The light fixture has a button switch on the back of it. It sticks out the same distance regardless of if the light is on or not. When I turn it on, then it is switched off electrically (i.e. not at the switch. I mean like when the timer goes off), it will not go back on again until it is turned on manually. If the switch is in the "on" position (even though there isn't really one I guess), but not actually on, the light will not come on if a timer clicks on to complete the circuit. Does this make sense?

Can anyone help me figure out how to get around this? I want the light to be able to come on via a timer. I'm way too stupid to start rewiring unless someone gives me a foolproof guide on how to bypass the switch. I can take a pic of the electronics portion of the light tomorrow. But it'd have to be a reallllllllllllllly easy guide, or else I'll electrocute myself.
 
  • #14
That sounds like an old fixture. Older light fixtures have to be 'held' to start, same way you start a car.

I doubt you can use this fixture to for your setup unless you want to wake them up every morning.

Nor would rewire it to always be 'pushing' the button. I'm not sure what would happen, but I'm pretty sure it'd be the same result of you keeping the key turned while starting the car.
 
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  • #15
Yeah it is a really old fixture. I guess I'll just have to buy a new one...
UGH! Anywhere to find a cheap one?
 
  • #16
Walmart I would guess to be the cheapest, $10 for the fixture and what ever kind of light ya want.
 
  • #18
nice! i hope your collection comes back to life soon! ;)
 
  • #19
Very nice! I like that the bed was placed to the side to make room for plants. That's my kind of priorities!

Curiously though, why won't a good room humidifier work? I guess to get try lowland conditions in the room would cause all kinds of other problems, but just for growing intermediates at the window?

Thanks for giving us some ideas!
 
  • #20
On a similar note, is that a cool mist humidifier in the chamber? I was wondering if you've tried a warm mist one in there? It may take care of the temp concerns without the need for a heater.
 
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