I've noticed a few weird things lately, and come up with some pretty weird ideas, and I want to know what you think 
#1 Weird Observation: First of all, I noticed that the humidity on the window behind a net curtain is higher than the humidity on the window with no net curtain. I suppose this makes sense, but still, you wouldn't think a net curtain would make that much difference, would you?
#1 idea: Could putting netting made of an absorbent material around the plant in a very hot environment, then dipping the material in a tray of water help to cool the plant, and possibly raise humidity through evaporation? Has anyone tried this?
#2 idea: airstone in water. Apparently this raises humidity?
#3 idea: place a large tray of water the length of the windowsill on a hot windowsill, and place the plants over the water, so they are not in it, unless they are plants which like wet feet. This large amount of surface area water will aid evaporation, hence raising humidity, and possibly lowering temps. Even if the humidity does not last long and soon moves away, the constantly evaporating water will keep replacing it, until the light source moves.
#1 Proven Fact... heat rises. Cool air sinks. Cool water sinks. Hot substances rising, then being cooled so it falls again to be reheated is called a convection current.
#1 idea: in an enclosed enivornment, put heat loving plants higher up than cold loving plants.
#2 idea: in an enclosed environment, where it gets warm, put active cooling devices down low to stop the air warming up in the first place, or if they are not strong enough to keep the place at the desired temperature, place them up high to cool the air once it reaches a certain point, preventing hot air build-up, so the hottest air rises past the plants and is cooled down before it can build up and reach them.
# 3 a proven fact... some colours absorb heat. Other reflect it.
#3: for heat loving plants, use lots of black colours to absorb the heat. For cool lving plants, use white to reflect it, and mirrors to reflect away excess heat causing light.
#2 A proven Fact...: Thermal mass. Objects absorb heat throughout the day and release it at night. Useful for Lowlands... bad for highlands. Water is a good conductor. It absorbs and releases heat well. Air is not.
#3 idea: putting a tray of water all along the windowsill, with a grating of some sort so the pots are not actually in the water, could act as a large thermal mass. It would absorb water throughout the day and release it at night.
#4 idea: wrap pots you wish to stay cool in bubble wrap. Air is a poor conductor, it'll take a while to heat up, and it won't release much heat at night.
#5 idea: water is a good conductor. For plants you want to stay warm at night, keep a lot of water around them. Any stored heat from the day will be released at night. This is passive heating.
#6 idea: metal is a good conductor. For plants you want to warm up a lot during the day, but want to have cool nights, place them on metal. The metal will absorb heat readily, but will transfer it to the plants readily, depending on what pot etc. you're using. However it won't store much heat for the night, if it has something to transfer to. In really hot climates, it could work well at night though, if it heats up a lot during the day.
#7 idea: Evaporation = humidity. The amount of humidity you get from evaporation is determined by whether the humidity is trapped, and whether it is constantly replaced. Trapped humidity will linger, but will cause the air to go stale after a time, and will heat up. Constantly repleansihed humidity is better for circulation, but will be harder to make, and may not be as high as trapped humidity, which is built up. A good humidity system will use some trapped humdity, but will constantly replenish and release old humidity too. This means it is best to have a way of making humidity, and a way of keeping it for a little while in one area.
#1 Weird Observation: First of all, I noticed that the humidity on the window behind a net curtain is higher than the humidity on the window with no net curtain. I suppose this makes sense, but still, you wouldn't think a net curtain would make that much difference, would you?
#1 idea: Could putting netting made of an absorbent material around the plant in a very hot environment, then dipping the material in a tray of water help to cool the plant, and possibly raise humidity through evaporation? Has anyone tried this?
#2 idea: airstone in water. Apparently this raises humidity?
#3 idea: place a large tray of water the length of the windowsill on a hot windowsill, and place the plants over the water, so they are not in it, unless they are plants which like wet feet. This large amount of surface area water will aid evaporation, hence raising humidity, and possibly lowering temps. Even if the humidity does not last long and soon moves away, the constantly evaporating water will keep replacing it, until the light source moves.
#1 Proven Fact... heat rises. Cool air sinks. Cool water sinks. Hot substances rising, then being cooled so it falls again to be reheated is called a convection current.
#1 idea: in an enclosed enivornment, put heat loving plants higher up than cold loving plants.
#2 idea: in an enclosed environment, where it gets warm, put active cooling devices down low to stop the air warming up in the first place, or if they are not strong enough to keep the place at the desired temperature, place them up high to cool the air once it reaches a certain point, preventing hot air build-up, so the hottest air rises past the plants and is cooled down before it can build up and reach them.
# 3 a proven fact... some colours absorb heat. Other reflect it.
#3: for heat loving plants, use lots of black colours to absorb the heat. For cool lving plants, use white to reflect it, and mirrors to reflect away excess heat causing light.
#2 A proven Fact...: Thermal mass. Objects absorb heat throughout the day and release it at night. Useful for Lowlands... bad for highlands. Water is a good conductor. It absorbs and releases heat well. Air is not.
#3 idea: putting a tray of water all along the windowsill, with a grating of some sort so the pots are not actually in the water, could act as a large thermal mass. It would absorb water throughout the day and release it at night.
#4 idea: wrap pots you wish to stay cool in bubble wrap. Air is a poor conductor, it'll take a while to heat up, and it won't release much heat at night.
#5 idea: water is a good conductor. For plants you want to stay warm at night, keep a lot of water around them. Any stored heat from the day will be released at night. This is passive heating.
#6 idea: metal is a good conductor. For plants you want to warm up a lot during the day, but want to have cool nights, place them on metal. The metal will absorb heat readily, but will transfer it to the plants readily, depending on what pot etc. you're using. However it won't store much heat for the night, if it has something to transfer to. In really hot climates, it could work well at night though, if it heats up a lot during the day.
#7 idea: Evaporation = humidity. The amount of humidity you get from evaporation is determined by whether the humidity is trapped, and whether it is constantly replaced. Trapped humidity will linger, but will cause the air to go stale after a time, and will heat up. Constantly repleansihed humidity is better for circulation, but will be harder to make, and may not be as high as trapped humidity, which is built up. A good humidity system will use some trapped humdity, but will constantly replenish and release old humidity too. This means it is best to have a way of making humidity, and a way of keeping it for a little while in one area.
