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My new Grow chamber like thing!

I am Bob

Not really
Hi guys, I am in the process of completing my first grow chamber. I have built it out of pvc, and will be wrapping it with contractor's plastic (the stuff used as drop cloths.) I will try to post pics when (and if) I finish. I have designed it to be for lowlanders (bottom covered part)(I might keep them outside during summer) and Highlanders (top shelf uncovered.) I still need to buy a light fixture, finish covering the rest of it, and get the plants (hoping to have something to trade if you have lowlanders; fingers crossed.)

How does it sound so far? anything that I am doing wrong? I understand that without photos you may not be able to tell me, but like I said, it is a work in progress.

Thanks in advance :-D
 
What type and quantity lights are you planning on using?
 
what size pvc tubing are you using, casue that sounds like an easy way to get it done! what are the dimentions gonna be?
 
Tony- I will base that on which plants I get. for example, if I were to lean towards N. Bical like species, I would use maybe one 80w fixture on a timer for a few days. I will have to figure this all out based on the species I can get.

Bloke- yes it is pretty easy, and really affordable. I am doing this for about $30. the dimensions are (approx.) 2 1/4' deep 2 1/2 ' tall and 4' wide. I am using Sch.40 3/4" Pvc piping.
 
I would deffinately go with at least 2 -2tube fixtures. Even for some of the plants that can grow ok with lower light levels as you mention. 4 - 4' normal tubes won't be too much and you will have much better growth and color on the plants.
 
Thanks Tony. I still need to buy the lights. Are you saying that 2 80w fixtures (for a total of 160 w) should be ok, as long as I keep them on for a shorter time frame then I would for, say perhaps, D. Capensis?
 
Hmm seems we are talking about a few different things.

I would consider 2 80w fixtures bare minimum for a nepenthes enclosure with the dimensions you indicate.

Most Drosera need very high light as they are used to full sun in the wild. You can grow them under the fixtures indicated but they will need to be within a few inches of the bulbs to get the light intensity they need. So in your 2.5' tall enclosure you will need to raise the sun loving Drosera up closer to the bulbs.

I am not quite sure what you mean by "keep them on for a shorter time frame"
If you mean can you increase the number of lights and decrease the amount of hours they are on for each day, then no. Most people run their lights about 14 hours/day to simulate a long day Summertime photo period. How bright the light is, is irrelevant. You can not decrease the photoperiod and make up for by increasing brightness, or vice versa.

Also you cannot make up for insufficient light intensity by increasing photo period. For example if a plant is growing poorly and not getting enough light, going from say 12 hours of lights to 16 won't make any difference.

Don't skimp on lighting. It is the number one most important factor for your success growing these plants indoors. Without proper lighting the plants will never do well, period.
 
Sorry, I did look at that post, and now that I read it is a bit more confusing. I do keep my drosera within several inches of the light and they are thriving (I have had them for several months now.) As I understand it, certain lowlander species, such as N. Bical, need a shorter photo period, as in their natural habits they are covered by trees and live deep in forests (At least that is how I understand it.) I know that others though grow in more open areas and thus prefer more light. So should I make the photoperiod shorter for the species that need it shorter, or go the standard 12-14 hours at 8 in above the plant. I was planning on having the lights hang at about 6-12 inches from the plants, and raise them as the plants grew. I am still new to this, and obviously need help. Thank you again.

EDIT: I will try to get pics, just so you can see what I am dealing with. It still isn't finished, but maybe you could get a better idea as to what I am talking about.
 
  • #10
Having the lights adjustable sounds like a fine idea. Normal fluorescent fixtures will not burn your plants even if really close, so the closer to the plants the better.

There seems to be some confusion though on photoperiod, which is the amount of time the plant receives light each day. And light intensity which is the brightness of the light.

The photoperiod/daylength is no shorter in the shadier regions of the forest, so all Nepenthes prefer a more equatorial daylength on the order of 13-14 hours.

Yes some Nepenthes can be found in the forested areas where light is less intense but most are quite happy and do much better where they receive some full sun for at least part of the day. Including those that can also be found in shadier areas such as N. bicalcarata. Just because they can grow in these areas doesn't mean they prefer it. 4 - 4' tubes won't come even close to what these plants can experience in nature.
 
  • #11
Ok, Thanks. That clears everything up. I now just need some pics to share. I finished covering it, and am seeing how well it heats up on its own. I also seeing if I need to cover the bottom of it as it is sitting on carpet which may absorb the humidity. Thanks again.
 
  • #12
Hi,
You wrote:
I have designed it to be for lowlanders (bottom covered part)(I might keep them outside during summer) and Highlanders (top shelf uncovered.)

You have it right "geographically", Lowlanders naturally grow in the lower regions (bottom shelf) and Highlanders grow higher in the mountains (hence the top shelf), however from an indoor growing chamber standpoint, it might not be the best way to setup.

The lowlanders want more heat, day and night. The highlanders may want a bit cooler days (than the lowlanders) and certainly want cooler/cold nights with lots of night humidity. Intermediates, as their name implies, want something in between.

Since heat rises, putting your highlanders on the top shelf may make cooling them down difficult, even if they are "sealed" out from the lowlanders. Cooling them down at night is necessary for true highlanders, so depending on your room conditions/temps, you might want to consider some sort of way to cool them down, or for the time being, stay with growing lowlanders and intermediates until you can build something more elaborate.

Many people put their "cooler loving" plants on the bottom shelf, so the heat from the lamps that rises from each fixture on each shelf will be drawn up and away from them. It doesn't work for many plants (not cool enough), but there are a great number of plants you should be able to grow easily enough.

To make a "one size fits all" grow chamber is more difficult than it may seem. If you look on the forum enough, you will see others trying to accomplish the same thng, and there are many good ideas that they all have to share.

Unless you are one of those people lucky enough to live in a state/location where mother nature does most of the work for you, then creating the right/necessary environment will be a challenge.

Good Luck.

Paul
GrowinOld
 
  • #13
To make things clear, Are you thinking that both the top and bottom are enclosed? the top is simply a shelf that is sitting on the top. when it comes time for me to, I am planning on putting a light there. the bottom shelf is completely covered with clear plastic to hold heat and humidity. I also have a small heater and humidifier that I will turn on when need be. like I said the top is completely open and should experience a nice night time drop as it gets pretty cool during the winter and the a/c makes my room approx 10 degrees cooler when the door is shut.

with that said, does it sound like it might work?
 
  • #14
Hi "Not Really Bob"!

Whether it works or not can only be determined thru experience!
Just keep a plants needs in mind, and if you see a plant "declining"
try to adjust what you are doing/providing it.
YOU control the Water, Light, Temperature, Humidity, "Soil" components, etc.

Experience is the best teacher.

Again, good luck.

Paul
 
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