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Highland Chamber setup 2.0

  • #21
My 8000 BTU AC will get down to 60*F it's not quite as cold as I'd like (50-55*F) but but it's enough to get them through those two or three difficult months depending upon the weather that year. The only difference in the setup for summer is that the input fan is infront of the AC output instead of the window. The humidifier tube stays plugged onto the duct just as it is now so the AC air doesn't come in all desert dry and cause the lids to drop.

My humidifier has a large screw cap opening on the bottom and a plunger type thing that bubbles when it rises up and allows more water to come out. But if there are any concerns with leakage by drilling a 1/2" hole on the top of the humidifier tank where the handle is then I won't bother trying it. I can't risk flooding the condo downstairs... again! :lol:
 
  • #22
My 8000 BTU AC will get down to 60*F it's not quite as cold as I'd like (50-55*F) but but it's enough to get them through those two or three difficult months depending upon the weather that year. The only difference in the setup for summer is that the input fan is infront of the AC output instead of the window. The humidifier tube stays plugged onto the duct just as it is now so the AC air doesn't come in all desert dry and cause the lids to drop.

My humidifier has a large screw cap opening on the bottom and a plunger type thing that bubbles when it rises up and allows more water to come out. But if there are any concerns with leakage by drilling a 1/2" hole on the top of the humidifier tank where the handle is then I won't bother trying it. I can't risk flooding the condo downstairs... again! :lol:

If I were you I wouldnt drill a hole into your humidifier. tanks like those work on pressure in the tank to keep the water in, and if you break the seal the water will just continuously pour out of it.

If you want to get your AC cooler, just move the thermostat away from the cooling radiator. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about.

attachment.php


The thermostat is the black wire in the top middle of the rad. Just move it away from the rad and you're AC will cool even more. You can also insulate the thermostat to get it even colder. You can access the thermostat by just opening the front panel (if you have one with a filter in the front just remove the filter and you'll see the thermostat behind it). You dont have to take anything apart.
 
  • #23
Thanks Rob, yeah mine is a front filter type model. I'll take a look and see if I can find the thermostat when I go to bring it back from my storage bin in a couple months. I may send you a PM later on asking for more info. ;)
 
  • #24
Thanks Rob, yeah mine is a front filter type model. I'll take a look and see if I can find the thermostat when I go to bring it back from my storage bin in a couple months. I may send you a PM later on asking for more info. ;)

Sounds good Swords. I'll be patiently waiting for your PM :).
 
  • #25
Well well, tonight is the first night I've hooked up the window AC to the room and Highland Tank 2.0 and I must say I'm pleased with this development... The AC controller says it only sets down to 61*F however with the metal intake fan pulling the air through a metal duct the air inside the HL chamber is actually 55*F while ambient outdoor temps tonight are 73*F. The tanks temps are verified by two separate thermometers and the Hygrotherm controller's own thermometer.

Pappy's happy tonight! :)

*Eh, by morning it was 51*F! :) :)
 
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  • #26
Sounds great :). Does the AC run the compressor all night to keep those temperatures?

Post some pics!!:awesome:
 
  • #27
Sure I can do some pics tonight. I'm so stoked about how far the temps go down, and quite quickly. I'm guessing it has to do with the PC fan and duct being metal (aluminum duct) and the tank being made of insulation wallboard foam so the foam holds the temps and allows them to decrease exponentially... I guess. Because my room itself only drops to about 60 - 65*F which is good cos I don't want the LL Nepenthes, crabs and tarantulas to get froze out. Insides of their tanks stay 70-80 *f at night. So far everybody's happy.

I guess the AC runs all night, I never shut it off but there's a fan pulling 65 CFM away from half of the AC output so maybe it never hits the "coldest" temp and shuts off?
 
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  • #28
Here's the pics from last night just before lights out 73*F / 90% RH

hl11.jpg


The fan hangs in front of the AC output still enough escapes to make the room itself very cool
hl12.jpg



Seems hard to photo a light up display

hl10.jpg



This morning before the lights come on, temps came up a couple degrees as I worked to get this shot - was 51*F before and after I opened the sliding door.

hl9.jpg


So far this has worked to keep temps nice day and night in hot weather days with a few freak 90*+F days and 70*F + nights this year so I think summer shouldn't be much of a bother for the HL plants this year (hopefully). :)
 
  • #29
We had an insane 102*F at 5 PM today (roads cracking open all over town) but the chamber was still good at 75*F with the AC running in the room and is a nice 52*F in there now when it's still 80+*F outside. I don't think the weather can get much worse for Highalnders and this new setup seems to hold steady through it all. Foam is nice! :)
 
  • #30
Looks like your eddy's appreciate all your hard work in there :)
 
  • #31
Do you mind if I ask how you keep your sphagnum moss? Do you leave a layer of water for it to suck up or would this just create a risk of mould? Thanks :)
 
  • #32
@tom: live sphag has anti-microbial properties...unless the terra is poorly ventilated, there should be no risk of mold.
 
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