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R/o system

vft guy in SJ

VFT and Drosera lover
Hey all.. I ran across this site today that I thought I would share. This R/O system is portable and operates on standard household water pressure. Can be adapted to fit any faucet or garden hose. Perfect for people who dont have tons of cash or dont want to mess with rigging plumbing and a storage tank under the sink (like me).

http://www.spectrapure.com/St_line_p1.htm

Cheers
Steve
 
Hey Steve, yah Spectrapure's stuff is really nice. I also recommend that unit for beginners, as it is low cost, low maintainence, but the only thing I must comment on is the sediment/carbon filter combo, will plug alot quicker that a seperated sed and carbon sump set, so gotta keep an eye on it if u have alot of sediments in the water supply. But other than that, itd keep around 30-40 plants well watered.

EDIT: for people not RO aquainted, I have the system here illustrating the dual sump setup that is superior.

http://www.spectrapure.com/St_line_p4.htm
 
I have a 9 stage system... nah nah na nah na... ;) jk ng. (about the nah nah stuff... I really do have a 9 stage system. 100 GPD)
 
Hey Ram, do you have a link to that system?  Whats the cost? Whats the work involved in setting it up? Please anyone who has alternatives post them...  I wanna know what would be ok for my needs..
ok I have about 50 or so plants.. all need clean water, I dont get mega-rainfall here so a R/O system is what I need.. I dont wanna go broke or spend hours or major space to set up a water system for my plants.

The one I posted should suffice me, but is there anything better that I dont know?

Steve
 
How hard is it to install one of those under a sink. I live in an apartment so I don't know how much access I have to the plumbing. What lines do you have to hook up?
 
OK first off, installing and RO system under a sink is a cinch, your gonna need some wrenches, pliers, and plumbers teflon tape. You will most likely need to buy some adapters as well depending on what comes with your kit.

No, I can not link TOTALLY to my system, as I customized it. but here is the basics:

http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com/RODI....da.html

I had an old RO system and I cannibalized a UV filter and the drinking water adapters, as well as the storage tank off of it and added to this one.

I also came into posession of a 12 inch sediment pre-filter and a 12 inch carbon pre-filter courtesy of Phil. (he is so good to me.) I plumbed those in before the RO system because my water is incredibly hard, this will make the membranes last longer.

My system is currently producing water with a TDS reading of 0.02 (total dissolved solids) this is INCREDIBLY clean water, and is far far far to over the top for CP's in my opinion. Why do I have it then? I have a reef tank as well, CP's are an afterthought on this filter, it's primary purpose is producing nitrate and phosphate free water for my tank.

I really like aquaFX, but it is kind of a cadillac system, go on ebay, search for a company called air water ice, and buy a cheapo 100 dollar system and you will be very happy.
 
Lol Ram, I don't NEED a nine stager. ;) I have mega issues with Chlorine. Our water for the town is siphoned out of the St. Lawrence River of course and its not too bad in TDS about 160ish ppm. Biggest issues for me are tiny tiny sediment and lots of Chlorine, so a nice .5 micron sed sump and a 15,000 gal. or larger Cl removal carbon block and I'm set. My system is a 90GPD so NAH to you too! I think Tony has you beat on the stages however, he'sgot very muddy water (shallow well if I remember what he told me) and he has those 24in long or larger sediment prefilters, 4 of them I think and around 4 piggyback membranes not including the system itself! Your water may be hard but Tony has to filter really nasty stuff!
 
I would recommend any basic 3 stage system like Dustin has (sediment prefilter, Carbon block prefilter, RO membrane). The seperate sediment and carbon block filter housings let you change them independently and they are a standard size so you can get filters that fit all over the place. Anything more than a 3stage unit is way overkill for cps and a waste of money.

The 2stage that combine the sediment and carbon into a single filter will cost more in filter changes. Particularly the ones that use the line filter that is nonstandard, pictured in the first link above. Typically they use a lower quality carbon filter also. Note the 2stage says granulated carbon. A good 3stage unit will have a solid carbon block. The Carbon filter is of particular importance if you are using municipal tap water that contains chlorine.

Steve mentioned Ebay. There are suitable units there. Spectrapure makes good units. Aquarium supply stores also carry decent units.

My only other suggestion is to get one that is significantly larger than you think you will need. Output is usually less than stated because most people dont have their water at the same temperature and pressure units are tested at. Lower pressure and colder water reduce output. The cost to go from a unit that makes 15-25gpd to 60-75 will be minimal anyway.

Tony
 
How do you test TDS?
I have a RO/DI unit that produces 50 gpd +, it is rated for 35 gpd. I have it pumped into a 50 gal trash can with an old aquarium sump that is connected to a drip system. Total set up was cheap, easy to do, and takes little space in the corner of the yard.
 
  • #10
Hi CP30, to test for TDS you must either send it to a lab to have it tested, generally they must have at least 1 gallon of the sample water. Or you can invest in a TDS meter yourself. THey aren't terribly expensive, but if you want a quality one it'll be around $150 and can go much higher.

I have a similar setup like yours for collection purified water. I also have my system on a float valve that automatically keeps a 45 gallon trash bin topped off, the misting system then syphons from the bin from the misting pump. I plan to have a much better water holding receptacle...one that is designed for water and won't spring leaks at the seams like plastic garbage cans do reguarly
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  • #11
Thanks for the info on TDS, I also have a float/solenoid set up - it is great! My can is a heavy duty rubbermaid 45 gal trash can used commercially. It might spring a leak in a few hundred years I guess. I purchased it at Lowes, maybe Home depot for around $30.
What TDS level do most cp's tolerate? As a former aquariast I think in terms of water hardness, is TDS similar?
 
  • #12
I just bought this one on ebay:
R/O unit

It's replacing my old Home Depot unit that the construction workers damaged. It seemed to me to be a good deal. They are pretty easy to set up, too. I also got a second tank for more storage.

Capslock
 
  • #13
Just as a follow up, I received the unit, and it kicks arse! Easy to set up, and makes a LOT more water than my older one. For $80 plus $30 shipping. I'm in water heaven now.

Capslock
 
  • #14
CApslock, looks like a nice system! To Juicy for CP's, don't let all that water go to waste and start up a reef tank!
smile.gif


Dustin, I hate to do this to ya man... but...

http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com/Instruments/TDS.html

TDS meters starting for 43.75$

I have the in line model (second down) it rocks.
 
  • #16
[b said:
Quote[/b] (CP30 @ Feb. 19 2005,12:08)]What TDS level do most cp's tolerate? As a former aquariast I think in terms of water hardness, is TDS similar?
I think it was under 100ppm, 150 for neps. TDS stands for total dissolved minerals, which I suppose relates to water hardness. When the TDS value of the water is high so is the water hardness, is that right?
 
  • #17
To add support to Capslock's system, I too ordered the same off Ebay and he is right about the cost and the unit. Multistage system, cheap and works great. Leo Song gets cheap r/o cartridges from, hmmm, usual brain inactivity, but the whole system works, that is the key.

Neps is the main reason I have one, so make room if you need to, but go as big as you can. Two pennies worth, maybe less.
 
  • #18
I don't think it looks like a cheapie, AquaFX is a highly respected company in the reefkeeping hobby, they sell cadillac stuff, doubt they would sell a cheesed over piece of equipment, as was said 100 and 150 TDS is good for CP's, remember people like me want 0.00, we demand accuracy because it is required!
 
  • #19
I was joking
smile_n_32.gif
The only reason I wouldn't buy one of the "handheld" units is because they are all 1 unit, Tony has a really nice one from Hanna Instruments that has a remote probe, if the probe gets junked...drys out, etc then you just unhook and toss, rather than toss the whole unit.
 
  • #20
Ahhh, yes, good point.. One of the reasons I have the inline unit, I can do the same. of course, the probes aren't cheap.
 
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