What's new
TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Tea cup orchid questions



So I got this orchid a week before Christmas and I hasn't grown at all. I deffenetly was not in the best shape when I got it. It came from a big box store on discount. Shouldn't it be growing new leaves and or flowers.
 
They aren't the fastest growing plants under the best of circumstances. I would expect at least the beginning of a new leaf. Describe the care you give it.
 
As the flowers drop. don't cut the stalk off it can bloom again off old cane. If part of it goes brown you can cut it at the next green node. And water once a week.and fertilize every other week
 
Watering on a set schedule before you figure out how fast your plant uses water in the particular circumstances you keep it under is asking for trouble. I notice that the plant is actually in a transparent pot with an outer decorative pot. The way to water a Phal is to watch the roots. When they're watered they turn green, and when dry they turn silver. Always wait until the roots have turned silver before watering.
 
I've never fertilized it and I water it about once a week it's in a west facing window

Subrosa that is a good tip I've never read that one on line
 
I find it easiest to fertilize lightly at every watering. I use 1/2 tablespoon of Better Gro per 5 gal bucket of ro water.
 
Last edited:
Their progenitors originated in very warm and humid tropical regions. Prolonged exposure to low humidity (below 60% R.H.) and temperatures below 70F can cause them damage - flower, leaf drop. If cool/cold water is splashed on their leaves it can cause mesophyll collapse. They also take the lowest light levels of any orchid group.
 
Flowering is an energy expensive activity from a plant's point of view. During flowering, energy is required to maintain the inflorescence. As such, it is not uncommon for phals (or most orchids for that matter) to undergo a rest period after flowering. During this rest, the plant begins rebuilding its energy reserves until enough energy to recommence growth has been achieved. The fact that you obtained the plant from a BBS -- where lighting conditions were likely tantamount to having been stored in a closet -- and since it was "not in the best shape when I got it," would strongly indicate that any energy reserves it did have before reaching the store were long depleted. Recovering from a BBS's "tender care" could take a while.

In addition, you have not answered Subrosa's original request: "Describe the care you give it." There is a LOT more to a plant's care than just the watering regime which can affect the plant.
  • What media is being used?
  • What condition is the media in?
  • Do you leave the plant in that cache pot when you water it and do you drain the pot afterwards?
  • In what condition are the roots in the pot?
  • What are you using as a light source/where do you keep the plant?
  • At what temperature (day & night) do you keep your home?

All of these factors can impact the plant's health and its growth. More detailed info (and pictures of its roots if you can) would better enable people to give you advice.



Prolonged exposure to low humidity (below 60% R.H.) and temperatures below 70F can cause them damage - flower, leaf drop.

Not necessarily Joseph. I have found that many orchids (including phals) can handle my abysmally low winter RH (20-33%) with no problem at all.

They also take the lowest light levels of any orchid group.

That is incorrect, sir. Many of the jewel orchids, like Haemaria (Ludisia) discolor actually hold that place. Similarly there are some members of the Pleurothallid Alliance that handle less than phal levels as well. Also, even among the phals there are species (and as a result some hybrids) that require light levels more in the range of Oncidium light levels ("medium" light) in order to do well and bloom.
 
Last edited:
DragonsEye,
I accept your corrections. I admit that I was being overly broad and cautious - for the sake of a newbie. These newer hybrids can be much more forgiving of higher light, lower temperatures and lower relative humidity - especially as compared to some of their progenitors. I have experience growing some of those progenitors, not as much experience working with these newer hybrids.
 
  • #10
I admit that I was being overly broad and cautious - for the sake of a newbie.

That occurred to me belatedly as I was out and about after posting.

If the orchids in question are those commonly available in BBSs, then you are right on the money, Joseph. ;) However, should the OP "branch out" into the wider orchid hobby world, then what I said above applies. Didn't want to leave a newbie with less accurate info should that second scenario occur.


 
  • #11
Here's the root ball is in lfsm and it seems ok but it was really hard
My house stays about 65 70 daytime and about 60 65 at night
It's in a western facing window that's it's light source and were it stays
And I do water it in that tin and I always drain the water

 
  • #12
I would carefully remove as much of that sphag as possible and repot in bark and/or lava rock.
 
  • #13
And here's the flower if anyone can is it

 
  • #14
Definitely change the potting mix .. it's impossible to ID most of the phals. Because they are so mass produced. .
 
  • #15
It is some sort of Phalanopsis Alliance hybrid. A more accurate ID is and will be impossible. There are simply too many look alike hybrids out there.

At the temps you mentioned, you are unlikely to see much growth. Most phals prefer warmer temps for active growth.

Whether to repot -- in bark or lava rock or orchid mix -- or not is really up to you. Many folks advise against using pure sphag. However, I have grown phals in pure sphag with zero issues. I have also grown them in various other media.
The con: Because of its water retentive properties, it can stay too wet too long -- particular in the very center of the mass. This can lead to rot. In addition, if it dries out completely, it becomes hydrophobic and is a bear to rehydrate. If kept wet, it breaks down fairly quickly.
The pro: Because of its water retentiveness, in can reduce the frequency of watering needed. Also, sphag seems to have some antifungal properties.

IME, the common issue in trying to grow phals like that in sphag is not the sphag itself. Rather it is because the sphag has been "trash compacted" into a ridiculously tight mass. This prevents the moss from drying out in a timely fashion -- particularly at the very center. If you should decide to give staying with straight sphag a try, then I would recommend the following. Break apart that compacted mass of sphag and remove all of it from the roots. Loosen up the sphag mass so you can separate the sphag strands -- no solid lumps. (You may be surprised to discover just how much sphag you'll wind up with.) Put the phal's roots back into the pot. You may find it necessary to "screw" the plant in to get the roots fit. LOOSELY refill with sphag. You might only use half of that original lump of sphag. Enough sphag should be used to gently hold the plant in place but definitely not be that dense wad it currently is.

Many folks, I know, like to pack their media (whatever they choose to use) to the point that you can pick up the plant and the pot (assuming its plastic) comes up with it. I never have found that to work for me. As such, I typically insert a stake into the media after I've repotted such that it stabilizes the plant.

 
Last edited:
  • #16
I admit to being a serial overwaterer by nature, so sphag is not the media for me to keep Phals in, but DragonsEye's explanation of the pros and cons of it is on the mark.
 
  • #17
So I took dragonseye's advice and am in the process of breaking the medium and this is what I found



Should I cut the rotted out
 
  • #18
Sure, I'd cut that one, dead, old root, out. It's not rotten, just old and dead. Rotten looks differently and smells.
 
  • #19
I think jwalker meant the black part of the stem:3
I have the same problem with wondering if I should cut off the black part of the stem too.

Oh and jwalker, if you pot yours in bark and perlite, let me know if your phal drops some leaves please.
 
  • #20
On your way!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top