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gosh darn pest

upper

Capensis Killer
my oreophila's pitcher is getting eaten to death. i think its a leaf hopper. there's one that's light green and they make burn holes. and there's another kind, kinda dark brown with black stripe that moves super fast. when they eat, they wriggle their body left to right its like a dog tilting their butt left to right. another problem is on my other sarracenia, its kinda bigger. there's freakin fungus gnats under it. i have my capensis and filiformis next to it and it caught more than 50 of em.(over like 3 months). then there's some white flies that i got rid of already.

can somebody help me try to eliminate all these problem?
 
my oreophila's pitcher is getting eaten to death. i think its a leaf hopper. there's one that's light green and they make burn holes. and there's another kind, kinda dark brown with black stripe that moves super fast. when they eat, they wriggle their body left to right its like a dog tilting their butt left to right. another problem is on my other sarracenia, its kinda bigger. there's freakin fungus gnats under it. i have my capensis and filiformis next to it and it caught more than 50 of em.(over like 3 months). then there's some white flies that i got rid of already.

can somebody help me try to eliminate all these problem?

Use some kind of systemic insecticide to kill the chewers.

As for the fungus gnats... I have used my Ortho systemic as a soil drench, and it works quite well.

Good luck!
 
Leafhoppers usually move away on their own. There is no recommended insecticide for them. They're sucking insects and you'd think a systemic would be effective but the fact that they don't stay long in one place reduces the effectiveness.

Fungus gnats I treat with BTi - mosquito dunks are a commonly found source for this. Just put a dunk or piece of one in your water tray or can and no more fungus gnats. This will take care of most caterpillars too but you need to spray the leaves.

Mosquito dunks are kind of expensive but a little goes a long way. You can get BTi in granular form at OSH and other places.
 
so you think i should just let the leaf hopper chew up until pitcher's gone then they'll move away?
 
so you think i should just let the leaf hopper chew up until pitcher's gone then they'll move away?

If you see it (them), stomp it (them) to hell.
smiley_devil.gif
There must be something you can do to prevent them from killing you plant...
 
every 20 minute i go check on em and kill 3. and 20 minutes later 4 comes back, i kill all 4, 20 minutes later i come back and kill another 4, and it keeps on going.
 
and yes i use my finger, and its disgusting feeling that crack when i squeeze it.
 
Recommended control method is use preventative insecticides (systemics) before infestations occur and to screen or isolate the plants. Infested plants should be isolated from the rest of plants.

You can use contact insecticdes like pyrethrin or pyrthroids and systemics like imidacloprid (Marathone) or acephate (Orhtene). Try Bayer Advanced Dual Action Rose and Plant Insect Killer which contains both a pyrethroid and Imidacloprid. Be aware that while this product is generally safe to use on VFTs and Sarracenia it could cause discoloration of Sarracenia pitchers.

Hit 'em with the pyrethroid in the early evening. It kills on contact. Then bring the plants indoors for a couple days and hope the rest of the hoppers (if that's what they are) move on.
 
Recommended control method is use preventative insecticides (systemics) before infestations occur and to screen or isolate the plants. Infested plants should be isolated from the rest of plants.

You can use contact insecticdes like pyrethrin or pyrthroids and systemics like imidacloprid (Marathone) or acephate (Orhtene). Try Bayer Advanced Dual Action Rose and Plant Insect Killer which contains both a pyrethroid and Imidacloprid. Be aware that while this product is generally safe to use on VFTs and Sarracenia it could cause discoloration of Sarracenia pitchers.

Hit 'em with the pyrethroid in the early evening. It kills on contact. Then bring the plants indoors for a couple days and hope the rest of the hoppers (if that's what they are) move on.

an update.... they havnt moved on.... there's less now.... but i dont think its actually less, because there's this spiderweb that's on one of my plant(non-cp) and there's like 8 leafhopper stuck on the webs. so that sphagnum moss that clint sent me that has like 5 spider, they actually helped me get rid of the leafhopper :-))
 
  • #10
So you've had a leaf hopper infestation for nearly four months and you were panicking that they were killing your plants back when?

So either they are not the problem you think they are or the moved on and moved back, like they do. There are only a few species that are host specific and remain on one host plant - potatoes and grapes mainly.

Did you try the systemics combined with a pyrethroid as I recommended twice now?
 
  • #11
So you've had a leaf hopper infestation for nearly four months and you were panicking that they were killing your plants back when?

So either they are not the problem you think they are or the moved on and moved back, like they do.

they are a problem as i can see it. there's red burnmark everywhere. its probably not killing the plant as i go out and squeeze like 2 or 3 every couple of days. yeah there are less... so its probably not killing the plant, but it is damaging it and making it more... unattractive.
 
  • #12
So they've been there for 3 1/2+ months causing that sort of damage?

"Recommended control method is use preventative insecticides (systemics) before infestations occur and to screen or isolate the plants. Infested plants should be isolated from the rest of plants."

If isolating them is impractical then use insecticides.

"Try Bayer Advanced Dual Action Rose and Plant Insect Killer which contains both a pyrethroid and Imidacloprid."

If they didn't go away back in May why didn't you use an insecticide then?

The pyrethroid Beta-cyfluthrin is very effective against the nymphs. Imidiacloprid is a systemic. The Bayer Advanced has both as active ingredients and is generally safe to use on most CPs.

If they went away back in May and came back then you need to use a systemic between infestations.

It would probably help to spray any yard plants with a garden sprayer too. If you live in an apartment or with some other shared garden space this could be a problem.
 
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