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ceph and heli pic

  • #21
Ron, almost every pot seen in the pic has a different soil mix.

My favorites are..
a. Pure cypress bark (relatively fine)
b. 7p cypress bark 3p LFS
c. 1p cypress bark, 1p APS, 1p LFS

My current favorite is option C.
Interesting mixes. I notice that none of them include any peat. Do Heli's have some aversion to it?

My rack is located in my basement and has continous cross ventilation via computer fans. Fans, humidifier and lights are all on the same timer. Relative humidity stays over 75% with >90% being common. Temperatures are seasonal with summers being in the low to mid 70's and winters being in the high 50's.

No day/night variance.
Your basement seems to get a bit cooler than mine in winter (except for my back room (aka - root cellar - which gets into the 40's)).

You say no day/nite variance so the fan(s) offset the heat gain from the lights? I find I typically get a 10-15*F day/nite variance from the lights & I would've guessed that the rack of reflector T-5's would have gotten even more... (at least w/o fans)

Helis are hungry buggers.... feed them often (every 2-4 weeks) and feed them well, I use fish pellets... When young I make a slurry of ground up fish flakes with water and use a syringe. There is a pretty good lag between feeding and seeing results... so keep the faiith. Once it starts you will definitely know it. You can use orchid mix in the pitchers... but this requires a little experience... so go slow, once you see signs of overfeeding... you are past the point of no return and death will likely occur. All you can do at that point is flush everything and hope for the best
All very good info - thanks! My one Heli that is doing 'OK' is in 100% LFS and is fed regularly. I originally would just fill the pitchers every 2-3 weeks w/ 1/4 strength miracid. In the last month, I've added some WFFs / carpenter ants. It is still very slow to add pitchers. How often do you see new pitchers emerging?

I consider feeding and trichoderma to be very beneficial to good heli (and especially cephs) success, but others will disagree... C'est la vie

Lighting is 6, 54w 5000k 85cri T5 bulbs with 95% efficient reflectors on a 18/6 photoperiod (summer, 12/12 winter)
Very helpful - thanks again.
 
  • #22
Oye V, good to see ya... gmailed ya a few days ago, been out of town again.... seems like I live on the road lately

Ron, as far as peat.... Ive just had much better luck without it, my best looking and most bullet proof helis have all been those using cypress based mixes. Pure cyrpess is really good for mature plants but requires daily watering. Which is probably the secret in itself, daily gas exchange in the root zone.

Here lately I have been on the road a lot so I have been working on mixes that work well but can go a day or two between waterings and this has been option C. Still get decent looking plants but now I can go a day or two between waterings and the substrate is still damp even with the high airflow of my setup.

I just had more trouble with peat then it was worth to me... once you see the base of the pitchers go a mushy brown its over with... and it has been my personal experience that this condition was most common with mixes containing peat.

I have one growing in a lotus pot with pure LFS (ceramic pot with holes in the side) and it is doing very well...

Without the constant cross ventillation the temps would go critical in short order, the fans are not an option with my setup, they are a requirement.

I must have airflow and lots of it... which then requires constant humidity supplimentation. Hence everything being on the same time cycles.

A problem that I didnt forsee was the oxydation of the reflectors, so now I use a acrylic based automotive sealant or quick detailer to prevent that from reoccuring.

I constantly have new pitchers, at any one time there are new pitchers in various stages of developement. Careful with the liquid food... if the liquid level is high in the pitchers this will leak out and find its way to the rootzone... which will slowly become toxic to the plant and death will occur. Its a frustrating lesson to learn and one that I learned the hard way.

Liquid is ok and works great, but use with caution. It has a very little margin of error.

Feed every two weeks and keep it up, one or two ciclid sized pellets for large pitchers and one or two betta pellets for small pitchers. After a month or so you will see a flush of growth that will continure throughout the growing season. (assuming other factors are ok) Sometimes I give them a little treat of dried flies or some other reptile food.

My basement has 8' tall, 12" thick poured concrete walls... tons of thermal mass. If its -20 or 105 outside it will still be somewhere between 55-70 degrees.

hmmmm think that is it
Av





Interesting mixes. I notice that none of them include any peat. Do Heli's have some aversion to it?

Your basement seems to get a bit cooler than mine in winter (except for my back room (aka - root cellar - which gets into the 40's)).

You say no day/nite variance so the fan(s) offset the heat gain from the lights? I find I typically get a 10-15*F day/nite variance from the lights & I would've guessed that the rack of reflector T-5's would have gotten even more... (at least w/o fans)

All very good info - thanks! My one Heli that is doing 'OK' is in 100% LFS and is fed regularly. I originally would just fill the pitchers every 2-3 weeks w/ 1/4 strength miracid. In the last month, I've added some WFFs / carpenter ants. It is still very slow to add pitchers. How often do you see new pitchers emerging?

Very helpful - thanks again.
 
  • #23
P.S.

regarding the miracid... I would avoid anything that uses urea, based on the research I have read it is very slow acting so the levels can become toxic without much warning. I prefer to use a non-urea based orchid food.

Av
 
  • #24
Just a question, where do you get cypress bark anyway?
 
  • #25
walmart, lowe's... practically anywhere that sells bags of mulch
 
  • #26
Awesome, thank you:)
 
  • #27
Great plants and thread.

How do you water the different mixes?
I've had good results watering directly from the top, letting the water drain into a tray, then repeating when the tray dries out for a day or two. This seems to be more water than what is usually recommended, but the plant seems to appreciate it. My mix is 1 part peat, 2 parts perlite, and a little orchid bark.
 
  • #28
tyd,

I typically water from above or do a dunk and drain... (set pot in a pail of water with the level below the surface, let soak then remove and allow to drain). I do my cephs with D+D due to the fact that no surface is exposed for top watering. I know a lot of people have very good luck with the tray method, but I personally prefer not to use it for the most part. (except for a few dews)

Av
 
  • #29
Thanks for the info.

tyd,

I typically water from above or do a dunk and drain... (set pot in a pail of water with the level below the surface, let soak then remove and allow to drain). I do my cephs with D+D due to the fact that no surface is exposed for top watering. I know a lot of people have very good luck with the tray method, but I personally prefer not to use it for the most part. (except for a few dews)

Av
 
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