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Thread: Nice Find At The Local Nursery

  1. #25
    scottychaos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrWurm View Post
    It's definitely a better one, but I still think it's rather misleading to say the plants need to be kept humid and in the terrarium. Eventually those sarracenia are going to outgrow the cube and you're going to wind up with confused growers trying to find a terrarium big enough for the whole plant.

    Jason
    good point!
    I didnt catch the info about keeping it in a terrarium..

    In the following quote, Green = good advice and Red = bad advice.
    (IMO)

    Flytrap Do's

    DO have fun with Trapper! Try fooling Trapper to close by taking a toothpick and lightly tapping the trigger hairs. Tap once, nothing happens; but, the leaf is primed. Tap twice and the trap snaps shut! Traps shut quickly when warm, slowly when cold. The trap will re-open in about a day if it is empty or does not have ‘food’ in it. Leaves will re-open 3 or 4 times before they lose their ability to close.

    DO feed your plant. On its own it will successfully trap millipedes, earwigs, flies, and medium sized bugs. Try putting one or two of these insects in the pot with the plant and watch Trapper catch them.

    DO give your plant plenty of sunshine. Place Trapper in a sunny window, balcony, or patio. In the inner surface is green move your plant to a place where it will get more light.

    DO provide a humid environment. Trapper will grow in full sun if the humidity is higher than 55%. To increase humidity if your air is dry, leave your plant in the plastic box with the top closed, or plant Trapper in a terrarium.

    DO give Trapper lots of water. You need to try to duplicate the bog conditions where Trappers grow naturally. Keep the soil wet at all times with distilled water or rainwater. Avoid tap water as it often has natural minerals that will turn the leaves black.

    Flytrap DON'TS

    DON’T leave Trapper in too much sun or he will cook. Venus flytraps prefer summer daytime temperatures in the 80-90 degree Fahrenheit range with night temperatures about 10-20 degrees cooler.

    DON’T worry about applying additional fertilizer to Trapper. If ‘fed’ it will get all the nutrients from its ‘meals’ just as it does in nature. A very dilute application of plant food once or twice during the summer is not harmful and may help the bulb grow bigger. The bigger the bulb grows, the larger the traps will be.

    DON’T feed your plant fatty food such as hamburger. The leaves will turn black, rot, and die.
    DON’T expect a leaf to live forever. Each trap can only re-open about 4 times. As old leaves die, new ones come up from the bulb to replace them.

    DON’T panic when all the leaves blacken in the fall. The bulb is going dormant. Trapper needs to rest. While dormant, put the pot outside, or in a place where it is cold, but will not freeze (35 – 40 degrees Fahrenheit). With a little luck, you will be rewarded with larger traps in the spring and a display of delicate white flowers.
    ok..so they get a "B" anyway..
    but yes, there is still some bad advice there..
    but at least its better than what we usually see..

    I know they are writing it for kids..hopefully most kids will be smart enough to seek out other info, and they will probably come across forums such as this one where some of the more "iffy" ideas can be set straight..
    but overall, its pretty good..except for the terrarium bit..

    Scot

  2. #26
    scottychaos's Avatar
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    Scot's re-write of the instructions..comments welcome:

    Flytrap Do's

    DO have fun with Trapper! But don't try fooling Trapper too many times by taking a toothpick and lightly tapping the trigger hairs. Trapper doesnt like being tricked! Leaves will only re-open 3 or 4 times before they lose their ability to close. Its better to let trapper catch bugs on his own.

    DO feed your plant. On its own it will successfully trap millipedes, earwigs, flies, and medium sized bugs. Try putting one or two of these insects in the traps and watch Trapper catch them.

    DO give your plant plenty of sunshine. Place Trapper on a balcony, deck or patio. If the inner surface of the traps is green, but not red, move your plant to a place where it will get more direct sunlight.

    DO remove the clear plastic top when you put trapper outside. just throw it away, trapper wont need it anymore.

    DO give Trapper lots of water. You need to try to duplicate the bog conditions where Trappers grow naturally. Keep the soil wet at all times with distilled water or rainwater. Avoid tap water as it often has natural minerals that will turn the leaves black. Put the distilled water or rainwater in a saucer and sit trapper's pot right in the saucer of water. keep about one inch of water in the saucer at all times, this will keep the peat moss that trapper grows in nice and moist, like a bog.

    Flytrap DON'TS

    DON’T try to grow Trapper indoors, or in a terrarium. the best conditions can be found outdoors.
    and indoor growing doesnt allow Trapper to "sleep" properly in the winter.

    DON’T worry about applying additional fertilizer to Trapper. If ‘fed’ it will get all the nutrients from its ‘meals’ just as it does in nature. applying additional fertilzer is completely unecessary, and can be harmful.

    DON’T feed your plant fatty food such as hamburger. The leaves will turn black, rot, and die.

    DON’T expect a leaf to live forever. Each trap can only re-open about 4 times. As old leaves die, new ones come up from the bulb to replace them.

    DON’T panic when all the leaves blacken in the fall. The bulb is going dormant. Trapper needs to rest. While dormant in the winter, continue to keep the pot outside if you live in USDA zone 7, 8 or 9, or in a place where it is cold, but will not freeze (35 – 40 degrees Fahrenheit) if you live in zone 6 or lower. With a little luck, you will be rewarded with larger traps in the spring and a display of delicate white flowers.

    (modified from instruction found here: http://flytraphelp.info/
    which, while generally good, in my opinion and in the opinion of others here, could use some tweaking.)

    Scot

  3. #27
    Californian in DC DrWurm's Avatar
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    Nice job Scot! I don't think I could've kept rewriting "Trapper" like that. It would've made me feel dirty all over. :S

    Jason

  4. #28
    mcantrell's Avatar
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    Well, if you do keep them in the plastic containers, then full sun would likely kill them. So it's not bad advice, it's just assuming you follow previous, bad advice.

  5. #29
    Capensis's Avatar
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    That sounds good, Scot. Now if only the CP suppliers knew. :x
    http://www.terraforums.com/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=6789&dateline=1352508752

  6. #30
    Californian in DC DrWurm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcantrell View Post
    Well, if you do keep them in the plastic containers, then full sun would likely kill them. So it's not bad advice, it's just assuming you follow previous, bad advice.
    The one I bought was growing basically in full shade when I picked it up from the nursery. I kicked it straight out into full, blistering sunlight and it's doing just fine.

    Jason

  7. #31
    cp-connection's Avatar
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    I've seen photos of their operation. The plants are in full sun until they're packaged and shipped. I seriously doubt that's the case for the other place (with the hard plastic cubes that sells to Lowes).

    Quote Originally Posted by DrWurm View Post
    The one I bought was growing basically in full shade when I picked it up from the nursery. I kicked it straight out into full, blistering sunlight and it's doing just fine.

    Jason

  8. #32
    Sarracenia Collector Adam's Avatar
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    I am having another (probably another) cp class at the library, and would order bulk pitchers from there
    Growlist: http://www.terraforums.com/forums/sh...row-Trade-List
    Collection: http://www.terraforums.com/forums/sh...-Deadly-Plantsn
    Quote Originally Posted by lizasaur
    Minor x Purp I actually have. Well,technically it's Minor Okee x Psitt Green.

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