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Cephalotus Leaf Pullings

Today I started some leaf pullings from one of my Cephalotus. I put all of the leaves on some milled sphagnum moss and put the water level up to the soil line. All of this is inside one of those Glad containers. Should I put the pot under my fluorescent shop lights or on top of the shop lights(in the shade)?
 
I would put the pot under the shoplite, covered, with minimal moisture.
 
"water level up to the soil line"?!? :0o:

Do you mean flooded with water?
(If so, I think you may have issues with rotting soon!)
 
I would just ensure that the compost is moist; saturated and with little ventilation is not the way to go . . .
 
Oh ok thank you... So im guessing putting the lid on top of the glad container would be bad?
 
Today I started some leaf pullings from one of my Cephalotus. I put all of the leaves on some milled sphagnum moss and put the water level up to the soil line.


For a successful rooting oif Cephalotus leaf cuttings you need the entire leaf and leafstalk (petiole) down to the rhizome. New growth occurs only on the point, where the leaf was connected to the rhizome. If you did not get this point, your efforts for Cephalotus propagation will be totally pointless. Look at this picture I found on the Internet:
http://www.foxoles.dsl.pipex.com/Resources/cephrooting.jpg
New roots and new leaves will only grow at this point where the leaf was connected to the rhizome.

If I take cuttings (leaf and complete petiole) I plant them a bit slanted in some living Sphagnum.

I keep the Sphagnum moist, not totally wet and humidity high.
The cuttings need good light to take roots in some months, but not too much heat.
 
Thank you... I think I will be successful, I will take some pics pretty soon
 
For a successful rooting oif Cephalotus leaf cuttings you need the entire leaf and leafstalk (petiole) down to the rhizome. New growth occurs only on the point, where the leaf was connected to the rhizome. If you did not get this point, your efforts for Cephalotus propagation will be totally pointless. Look at this picture I found on the Internet:
http://www.foxoles.dsl.pipex.com/Resources/cephrooting.jpg
New roots and new leaves will only grow at this point where the leaf was connected to the rhizome.
I have read this concept / principle many times concerning both VFTs & Cephalotus. My experience is that it is true with VFTs but not with Cephalotus.

I do not intend to start some significant disagreement but only state my own experience. I originally believed that one needed to do a leaf pulling directly from the rhizome as is regularly practiced w/ VFT pullings. One day, while pulling a leaf from a Cephalotus, I managed to pull the rhizome in two - from my largest plant. Since then, I place an exacto blade slightly above where the leaf joins the rhizome and cut it there. Since starting this approach several years ago, I have seen no decrease in the percentage of successful strikes when compared to legitimate 'leaf pullings'.
 
I do not intend to start some significant disagreement but only state my own experience. I originally believed that one needed to do a leaf pulling directly from the rhizome as is regularly practiced w/ VFT pullings. One day, while pulling a leaf from a Cephalotus, I managed to pull the rhizome in two - from my largest plant. Since then, I place an exacto blade slightly above where the leaf joins the rhizome and cut it there. Since starting this approach several years ago, I have seen no decrease in the percentage of successful strikes when compared to legitimate 'leaf pullings'.
I tend to agree, though in my experience if you get a bit of rhizome then that plant seems to establish a little quicker. I don't find having a piece of rhizome essential to success though.
 
  • #10
I tend to agree, though in my experience if you get a bit of rhizome then that plant seems to establish a little quicker. I don't find having a piece of rhizome essential to success though.

sort of like what I see making Drosera paradoxa leaf pullings. If I pull a clump of leaves I get a bigger plantlet, easier to work with. single leaf some times that don't sprout, but when they do I get a dinky plantlet that i need to use tweezers to work with......
 
  • #12
photo-17.jpg
 
  • #13
I usually find rooting in live Sphagnum moss to be reliable. But, occasionally I experiments and these rooted in perlite:

Hummer's Giant
hummer.JPG


Typical
typical.JPG
 
  • #14
I just took this picture, the result of a leaf pulling from a few months ago:



001-18.jpg
 
  • #15
Very Nice Pics Everyone!!! I can't believe it was rooted in perlite... what was it's conditions? Humidity, temperature, and light if available?
 
  • #16
I can't believe it was rooted in perlite... what was it's conditions? Humidity, temperature, and light if available?
It was in a small terrarium (18") with four 12" Gro-Lux fluorescents and a fan for circulation. Humidity, while not actually measured, would have been high due to the nature of the setup. The perlite had a thriving growth of Sphagnum moss on top, which I would clear away for Cephalotus pulling.
 
  • #17
It was in a small terrarium (18") with four 12" Gro-Lux fluorescents and a fan for circulation. Humidity, while not actually measured, would have been high due to the nature of the setup. The perlite had a thriving growth of Sphagnum moss on top, which I would clear away for Cephalotus pulling.

Thank you! Hopefully I can soon replicate that successful setup...
 
  • #18
Update:
Very Promising! I rooted these cuttings in chopped LFS in a completely closed Glad container.

IMG_0241.jpg


IMG_1173.jpg


Plus some Drosera Regia "Big Easy" water cuttings and one Cephalotus "Big Boy" cutting.

IMG_2397.jpg
 
  • #19
Again.. the yellow leaves can be tossed. Those are no good.

My method is to take the cutting and immediately place it into one of these propagation cups. Just a small size dixie cup works.. I cram it full of live LFS, stick the cut end of the leaf way down in there so the top of the leaf is barely showing, and keep it moist at all times. I leave the cups around my HL GH in misc. places.. and after 4-6 months.. WAHLAH! I've also had great success with just sticking leaf cuttings into random drosera pots. Silica and peat, in a high humidity tank has been working as well.
IMG_7412.jpg


IMG_6924.jpg


IMG_6925.jpg
 
  • #20
Wow like a professional. The 6 yellow leaves I started for some reason have calluses. Does the whole leaf have to be yellow for it to not root? In the second picture, the leaf on the far left is sending up a pitcher.
 
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