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Do Darlingtonia need cool roots?

  • #21
My cobra lilies were thriving in Sarracenia-ese conditions...until it accidentally got sprayed with bleach...

RIP. my darling(tonia)
 
  • #22
Yeah there seems to be a huge difference between the sun here and elsewhere; I agree with the humidity assessment, that is absolutely true. The only plants I leave out in the sun all day here are palm trees and cacti/succulents. The CPs just won't take the afternoon sun. I only expose my CPs to morning/evening light and lately some of my VFTs have been showing signs of still getting too hot. Growing Darlingtonia? Well, not saying it's impossible, but I would sure like someone else to try it before I do because I have doubts. :p
 
  • #23
Several growers are now proposing that a pathogen is responsible for the demise of Darlingtonia. Jeff Dallas of Sarracenia Nothwest has proposed that a fungus infection such as Phytopthora is responsible.he has taken plants showing a 'typical' root rot and by " dipping them in Tebuconazole fungicide (Bayer Disease Control)" all have survived. Others propose a bacterial cause of the plants demise. There's a trial someone in one of your Darlingtonia unfriendly areas could try.

The logic in this is solid. I, too, agree that the live sphagnum is imperative, Fred. I find myself concurring with the pathogen perspective.

I would totally try my cobras with the pot-in-tray method if my current "over-engineered" setup was not working so well. When they out grow their pots they will hopefuly have produced a few stolons for me to experiment with. I will give the straight flooded tray a shot then.
 
  • #24
living oklahoma, this really gives me hope to try darlingtonia, i can grow sarrs, VFT, several types of dews year around outside, and my biggest concern has always been the hot summer temps. Now i just need to get my hands on a cobra lilly to give this sphagnum/tray method a try. Thanks for the info everyone.
 
  • #25
# When they out grow their pots they will hopefuly have produced a few stolons for me to experiment with. I will give the straight flooded tray a shot then.

living oklahoma, this really gives me hope to try darlingtonia, i can grow sarrs, VFT, several types of dews year around outside, and my biggest concern has always been the hot summer temps. Now i just need to get my hands on a cobra lilly to give this sphagnum/tray method a try. Thanks for the info everyone.

It's good to see some positive responses. Not everyone will wait for the other guy to sort it first :nono:
Anyone have spare Darlingtonia to help these two speed up the process? I can't as I'm in the UK.

Is anyone going to look at the anti-pathogen treatment? ( Tebuconazole fungicide (Bayer Disease Control))
 
  • #26
Hey, I'm sorry. That came out wrong, don't mean to be a negative nancy. I am glad people are doing these experiments. :)

I would experiment with them if I happened to attain some but I haven't been so lucky as of yet. My biggest thing is that I like to be sure of what will and will not work when I attempt to grow a plant. Big problem with these is, as this thread illustrates, the amount of myths, misinformation, and lack of definite growing conditions. I do doubt they are as finicky as are rumored to be, but I would still feel bad if I spent, say, $20-30 on one and found out that my idea for growing them are not ideal.

I did stupidly forget about my little grow window inside though. I grow some dews and a fern there and the temps don't tend to exceed 85F where the plants are, which I would assume is a reasonable temperature for a cobra Lilly. Night goes down to around 70. Humidity stays really low though so that may be a problem. Haven't figured out how to raise that up to a more suitable level but the dews don't mind.

Here's the window rig. Yes, I am fouling up your darlingtonia thread with my Drosera. :p It does get a supplemental boost with a single 6500k cfl lamp that kicks on twice a day. Worth a try with darlingtonia?
IMAG0821_zpse15881df.jpg
 
  • #27
I've killed many a cobra lily through various trial and error approaches. Having said that, a top watering in the morning, during the summer, for well-established plants, gets them through the 80's and occasional 90's of summer.
 
  • #28
Worth a try with darlingtonia?

On the temperatures you quote I'd certainly want to try at least a half tray. Try a small plant, much easier to establish.
 
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  • #29
Fred,

I have used tebucanozole on other plants in the past and have a container in my supply. It is good stuff. Should my plants turn south for some reason, you can bet I will try that and report the experiment.
 
  • #30
I lost 7-year-old Darlingtonias this year in the middle of summer and I am almost certain it fell under attack by a root rot pathogen. I suspect Pythium, Fusarium, or Phytophora. I am in Georgia, but this year had a great deal of cloudy weather, low-ish temperatures, and 90-100% humidity for almost 3 solid months. Completely abnormal. Anyway, the greenhouse I had them in contained only Arabidopsis and research plants, and all fell under attack at the same time. I had the Arabidopsis lab-analyzed, but not the Darlingtonia, and Fusarium and possibly Pythium were reported. Cleary's 3336, Subdue Maxx, and Banrot were what I used and it alleviated problems with the Arabidopsis. The Darlingtonias were too far gone to save, however, probably because I kept the soil much wetter and the pathogens spread more quickly. However, the green tissues that were left when I fungicided seemed to die more slowly than in weeks previous. I suspect I found the cure, but much too late. If I can get ahold of more Darlingtonias I'd love to trial them again. They easily were taking 90 degree summer days last year with seemingly no problems. Hopefully soon I can get some nice trades organized.
 
  • #31
If I can get ahold of more Darlingtonias I'd love to trial them again. They easily were taking 90 degree summer days last year with seemingly no problems. Hopefully soon I can get some nice trades organized.

Some useful imformation in that , thank you. Good luck in restocking
 
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