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LEDs for Helis

Hey guys,
I'm wondering if anyone grows heliamphora under LEDs and how they color up.
I read on the icps website that LEDs may not be the best choice for helis, I also read that plants like the deep red lights.
I was thinking about doing an LED set up because you can put them on a panel of whatever size you want, whereas with t5s it's the 2 ft or 4 ft rule and more of a rectangular shape. (I'm planning on making a custom grow chamber).
I guess I'm just a little worried that if I buy LEDs they may not give sufficient lighting for my helis.
I tried looking through old threads but couldn't find anything specifically addressing LEDs and helis.
I'd appreciate any feedback tips and pictures :) thanks!
 
I grow my helis under LED and T5 and they color up just fine. I prefer to mix LED and T5, but certain LED lights do put out a ton of light. I recently bought an LED light designed to be used as a security flood light at box store like Home Depot and I was surprised at how well it works for plants like helis and nepenthes. You almost have too many choices these days with LED light options.

You are right that low-powered LEDs have a risk of not getting your helis to color up well.
 
Ahh I see, I may think about doing that. I was thinking about giving up on the LED search. I'm not very tech savvy, how do I tell a low powered LED from a better one? Thanks for the help Dave! :)
 
The term Watts is used to determine how much power it can potentially put out. You can also look for color which is often called daylight (in the below example 5000K).

I am a big fan of using LED light technology for growing plants indoors. I have done so since 2006. I still use most of my original lights from back then.

Here is what I would suggest for a heli or two: http://www.homedepot.com/p/TCP-200W...205583333?N=5yc1vZbm79Z2bctr9Z1z0u18wZ1z0u1gt

The true test will be to see how your plants react and if you like the results.
 
That's really helpful, I may buy one and put a heli under it and see how the future pitchers color up. Thanks a bunch :)
 
Actually, you probably want to pay attention to lumen and lumen/watt rather than wattage. Actually PAR is more relevant than lumen, but you won't find this info from most LED models. LED technology has been progressing rapidly, and older models output smaller amount of light for a given wattage than more modern models. Also, the design of LED dramatically influence the efficiency (lumen/watt). The TCP PAR38 seems to be relatively inefficient (2100 lumen for 29W = 72.4 lm/w).

This would be a better deal: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cree-90W...t-Bulb-BPAR38-1503047T-12DE26-1U100/205184900 This is 1500lm/18W = 83.3lm/w. I measured this model recently, and it gives 350 micromol/m^2/s (1870footcandle) at 12" from the bulb. Full sun is about 2000 micromol/m^2/s.

All of these house-hold type LED bulbs are not so efficient due to the design constraints (difficult to manage heat). If you can do simple wiring, DIY LED is the way to go. You can get almost 2x the efficiency at the similar cost.
 
One thing you won't want to use is one of the cheap LED panels available on Amazon. I have a couple and they really don't save money compared to T5s, nor are they good enough light for most plants.
 
The best way would be to find reviews or one in use somewhere. If you can actually look at the LED while it is running without hurting your eyes, move on. If the LED fixture needs 100s of LEDs I'd pass, the LEDs I'm using would roast any plant with 100s of them in a 2' X 4' area. I'm perfectly happy with a single LED every 2-4". I'm not using the bulb type, I'm using a DIY kit.

I'd say it would be safe to assume any of the newer Phillips or Cree LEDs would work just fine. They are actively competing with each other and that generally leads to better products.

Try doing a search of these forums, over the last year a lot more LED types are being played around with and documented well.

Also keep in mind that lumen/lux ratings are just what a human eye can see, so you can have a very good Red or Blue LED with a silly low lumen rating.
 
Thanks guys, I'm going to do more research like you've all suggested and keep in mind everything you've told me.
I'll have to check out the Phillips and Cree LEDs lights :)
 
  • #10
The term Watts is used to determine how much power it can potentially put out. You can also look for color which is often called daylight (in the below example 5000K).

I am a big fan of using LED light technology for growing plants indoors. I have done so since 2006. I still use most of my original lights from back then.

Here is what I would suggest for a heli or two: http://www.homedepot.com/p/TCP-200W...205583333?N=5yc1vZbm79Z2bctr9Z1z0u18wZ1z0u1gt

The true test will be to see how your plants react and if you like the results.

5000k with 85CRI is impressive and almost guaranteed to grow Heliamphora pretty well based on what little I know
The amount of color one attains is also highly dependent of species.
Some species practically turn red under candlelight, while others refuse to under the most intense lighting.

fwiw, DaveS is a long time grower of heli, he gave me my first H 'Tequila' many moons ago
He doesn't just talk the talk, he walks the walk.... and he is good people
 
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  • #11
Hahaha thank you for the reinforcement av8tor :D what species for you don't color up? Or which ones do you know of?
 
  • #12
follic is about the easiest to get red, show it a lit match and its red...

parva is stunning but likes to stay green

nutans giant shows its glabra genetics and displays yellows,oranges and reds

tequila (certain clones) shows dramatic red till it slowly acclimates, then not as intense..

bang for the buck, parva and folliculata.... both easy, both very appealing visually but each totally unique


edit: last pic shows parva in foreground and folliculata in background
http://www.terraforums.com/forums/showthread.php/138990-misc-cell-phone-pics
 
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  • #13
Ahhh I love parvas, it's still pretty red around the rim. I guess I'll have to do some testing and see what my plants like :D should be fun
 
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